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1. Best Management Practices on
the Acreage
By Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator
Watersheds, big or small, receive water from individual
lots as surface runoff. Water from rainfall and snow melt
that does not absorb into the soil becomes surface runoff.
It carries with it any contaminant it comes in contact
with such as soil, leaves, pesticides, fertilizers, oils,
etc. It's important to remember that we all live in a
watershed, no matter where we live. Because we are always
downstream from someone else, it is important for every
homeowner to understand his or her role in watershed management.
A simple starting point for managing surface runoff is
to reduce runoff from individual lots.
Activities that acreage owners can do to manage their
watersheds are generally referred to as Best Management
Practices (BMPs). These activities not only help to reduce
the amount of runoff, but also help to improve runoff
quality. As acreage owners implement these simple activities
on their lots, they should find out which watershed they
live in, who lives upstream from them, and who lives downstream.
Simple activities that can help to reduce surface runoff
include the following:
. Cover all bare soil areas with some type of vegetation
and/ or mulch. Covers such as plants, trees, compost,
mulch, etc., help to increase water absorption into the
soil.
. Within your acreage, plant natural species of vegetation
that are more deeply rooted than turf grass. This also
helps water absorption.
. If your acreage is close to a stream or a creek, consider
establishing a buffer zone along the edge of your property
next to the body of water. Buffer zones consist of natural
vegetation, woody plants, and trees that help absorb water
into the soil and, at the same time, slow down the runoff
leaving the acreage.
. Do not drive up and down your acreage with your car,
pickup, or any other heavy equipment. Heavy equipment
traffic can compact the soil, which results in more runoff.
. Consider landscaping your acreage in a way that helps
water absorption and infiltration. For example, in low
areas of the acreage consider rain gardens and/or a small
wetland or a pond.
. Large volumes of water moving at a fast speed across
an acreage can cause soil erosion. If erosion is visible,
guide the water across the acreage in a way that slows
it down. This will help to reduce erosion. Investigate
the possibility of establishing a terrace to slow water
runoff.
Implementing these BMPs can help to manage surface runoff
on your acreage.
Other publications worth viewing are:
Terrace
Systems for Nebraska
Vegetative
Filter Strips for Agriculture
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2. Nebraska Conservation Trees
By Paul Hay, UNL Extension Educator
Nebraska Conservation Trees can be ordered from your local
Natural Resources District (NRD) http://www.nacdnet.org/resources/NE.htm,
or from Natural Resource Conservation Service (NRCS) http://www.ne.nrcs.usda.gov/
office. Nebraska Conservation Trees are low cost seedling
trees made available to plant rural homestead, acreage,
and livestock windbreaks. They can also be used in wildlife
habitat areas, living snow fences, forest management areas,
or other multipurpose plantings for acreages. More than
30 species of trees and shrubs are available through the
program. I sure enjoy the Ponderosa pine, bur oak and
seven species of shrubs in my acreage windbreak.
Windbreaks reduce the cost of heating rural homes by as
much as 40%. They reduce the cost because they slow down
those cold winter winds. Windbreaks extend the life of
exterior paint and stain. Roofing, fencing, and landscaping
costs are also reduced. Windbreaks beautify the rural
home, provide a more comfortable outdoor area in winter,
improve wildlife attraction to the area, and increase
the value of the land.
Before you order trees for your windbreak planting, you
need to develop a plan for the location and the number,
species, and spacing of the trees and shrubs you will
need. This plan will consider the snow drift area, height
needed to protect the home and yard, wildlife and landscape
considerations, future development plans, etc. The NRCS
office provides the technical support to assist with this
planning.
NRD's vary on order rules and planting options, but usually
orders must be in multiples of 25 per species. Most rural
windbreaks will require from 100 to 200 trees and shrubs.
Most plans will include from two to four rows of trees
and shrubs.
Good site preparation and planting practices will help
ensure the survival and growth of windbreak trees and
shrubs. Soil compaction layers and other existing soil
problems should be corrected before planting. Most NRD's
offer tilling and planting services for those landowners
at least those who have larger plantings. Most NRD's stock
weed barrier mats and tree guards for rabbit and mice
protection.
Depending on supplies some plantings could still be done
this spring if you act promptly. Larger plantings would
require starting now to plan for next year.
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3. 2004 Great Plants for the
Great Plains
By Justin Evertson, Nebraska Statewide Arboretum
Each year the Nebraska Nursery & Landscape Association
chooses a tree, shrub and perennial plant of the year.
These are new or underutilized plants that merit wider
use in Nebraska. Working in cooperation with the Nebraska
Statewide Arboretum, the plants are brought into large-scale
production and made available to the public through garden
centers and nurseries. Four great plants promoted by this
program in 2004 are Bur oak, Clove currant, variegated
Solomon's Seal and Indiangrass. Try one of these 'Great
Plants' in your landscape this year!
| Bur Oak, Quercus macrocarpa.
With its wide, welcoming limbs and cooling shade,
bur oak was a welcome site on the prairie savannah.
Despite rumor, bur oak doesn't take forever to grow,
but it can get big. It withstands the drought, wind
and extreme cold and heavy soils of the Midwest
and is easy to grow if planted as a young tree.
The large dark green leaves generally turn yellow
to brown in fall and the brown bark becomes deeply
ridged and furrowed with age. The acorns, enclosed
by a heavily fringed cap, are an excellent source
of food for wildlife. With its massive trunk and
broad crown of branches the bur oak is more suited
to large areas and makes for an excellent, durable
street tree. Native to the Great Plains. Height
50-60', width 45-50'. Hardy to Zone 2. |
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| Clove Currant, Ribes odoratum.
The clove or buffalo currant is a western Nebraska
native shrub that is an excellent choice for the
landscape or when early spring color is desired.
In April the plant is covered with bright yellow
trumpet-shaped flowers, deliciously clove-scented.
If you smell the blossoms you will not rest until
you own a plant. The arching stems, usually surrounded
by a mass of young suckering growth, form bright
green tri-lobed leaves that turn orange in the fall.
The selection 'Crandall' was developed in the late
1800s for its excellent fruit quality and resistance
to mildew. The beautiful black fruits ripen in mid-July
with a sweet spicy flavor and will literally pull
down the stems. Now you can have your cake and eat
it too! Plant it in full sun to part shade in any
good garden soil. Height 4-6', width 4-6'. Hardy
to Zone 4. |
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Variegated Solomon's Seal, Polygonatum
multiflorum 'Variegatum'. Try this exciting
alternative to hosta for the shade garden. This
is probably the most handsome of the Polygonatums.
The origin of its common name refers to King Solomon's
use of the crushed root to "seale or close up greene
wounds," particularly broken bones. Shoots emerge
in spring, mostly watermelon red with traces of
green, and the bright color holds until the stems
are almost fully grown. Emerging leaves are boldly
blotched and striped ivory-white and arrange themselves
along the arching stems. Delicate, vase-shaped white
flowers hang from the stems in May and are a favorite
of bumble bees. In the fall dark blue-black fruits
hang from the stems and the leaves can turn a nice
yellow color. It's easy to grow provided a shady
location and rich, organic soils. Once established
it will tolerate dry shade and soon form nice full
patches with stems all arranged in the same direction.
Try combining with spring bulbs or groundcovers.
This Polygonatum is native to Europe and Siberia.
Height 2', width 2'. Hardy to Zone 4.
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| Indiangrass, Sorghastrum nutans.
Indiangrass is one of the Great Plains most beautiful
native grasses! It is an attractive, upright, clumping,
warm season grass that makes an excellent tall background
or specimen plant. Its foliage ranges from various
shades of green to almost blue topped by silky-soft,
golden seedheads in late summer to early autumn.
In fall it becomes yellowish and then dries to an
attractive burnt orange and remains showy through
winter. Reaching five to seven feet tall, it makes
a powerful late season statement in the landscape.
Indiangrass grows readily in full sun on any well-drained
soil, from dry sand to heavy clay, but prefers rich,
deep soils. It can benefit from additional water
in the summer in the arid west and can readily reseed
itself in areas with adequate moisture. Some cultivars
of Indiangrrass include 'Holt', 'Bluebird', and
'Sioux Blue'. Hardy to Zone 4. |
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4. Care of Bare-root Plants
By Sarah Browning, UNL Extension Educator
During this time of year, many gardeners are anxiously
awaiting the arrival of the postman or UPS truck bearing
carefully packed plant orders from mail-order nurseries.
These orders contain highly prized plant material, usually
bare-root and dormant. Plants commonly sold bare-root
include fruit trees, deciduous trees, small fruits,
strawberries and roses.
The novice gardener might look at these "sleeping" plants
and think they've been cheated. "Where are the green
leaves? And what's this hunk of root?" they might be
heard muttering in dismay. Don't panic and send these
plants back, thinking you've been bamboozled. These
plants are definitely alive and will soon sprout leaves.
Many local nurseries also carry high-quality bare-root
nursery stock, but unless they're geared to mail order,
they only carry a small amount.
A little preparation will achieve the best results with
these plants. Open the box as soon as it arrives and
inspect the contents. The plants can be left in a cool
place and in their original moist packing medium if
you will be planting within a few days. Bare-root stock
must be planted before the buds begin to expand. If
planting will be delayed, more extensive measures may
need to be taken.
Bare-root plants perform best when their food reserves
have not been depleted. You can help them maintain optimum
food reserves by making sure the root systems are healthy.
A sharp knife or pruning shears should be used to remove
any broken or twisted roots. Make clean cuts and don't
remove more root than necessary. Stay in this conservative
mode when pruning the top of your bare-root plant material
at planting time, too. Remove only broken, dying or
dead plant tissue.
Restore moisture to bare-root trees and shrubs before
planting by soaking the roots in a bucket of water for
a few hours, but no longer than overnight. When planting
bare-root material, be careful not to plant too deeply.
Place each in the planting hole so that the root highest
on the stem is just below the finished soil level. It's
advisable to plant each plant on a small mound of soil,
created in the center of the planting hole, and spread
the roots evenly down the sides of the mound. This will
slightly elevate the plant and guard against root and
crown rot. Do not bend roots to make them fit into the
planting hole. Dig the planting hole wider instead,
or as a last resort trim the long root back to fit into
the planting hole.
Take care not to allow the roots to dry out during planting.
Water each plant immediately after planting to firm
the soil around the roots and remove any pockets of
air that might exist in the soil.
Good followup care is important to assure establishment
of the new plants. Follow the guidelines discussed below
under 'Proper Planting of Trees & Shrubs.' Or consult
UNL
NebGuide G94-1195 'Care of Newly Planted Trees'
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5. Proper Planting
of Trees & Shrubs
Justin Evertson, Nebraska
Statewide Arboretum
Proper planting is critical to the establishment and
long-term health of trees and shrubs. In fact poor planting
and follow-up care likely leads to more tree and shrub
death than all other causes combined. Common problems
include planting too deep, failure to address soil problems,
failure to fix circling and girdling roots, improper
staking and guying, poor mulching and improper watering.
To help people get new trees and shrubs off to a good
start, the following planting guidelines have been developed.
The recommendations are based on nationally recognized
standards as well as experience and information compiled
by the Nebraska Statewide Arboretum and the UNL Nebraska
Forest Service.
Species Selection- Perhaps the most important
aspect of successful tree or shrub planting is the selection
of the right type of plant that will thrive on the planting
site. It is important to realize that many trees and
shrubs have particular soil, water, sun exposure and
other siting requirements. Most importantly, a plant
has to be genetically "hardy" or acclimated to the region
it is planted in. It won't matter how well something
is planted if it is the wrong species or type of plant
for the site. Fortunately there are many great resources
to help with selection including nursery and landscape
professionals, arboretum and botanical garden people,
the Nebraska Statewide Arboretum, the local public library
and of course, internet resources (a Google™ search
is a good place to start).
Preparing the Site (Digging the Hole)- Once the
right plant has been selected for the planting site,
it is time to get the shovel ready. In recent years,
however, the emphasis has change from "digging a hole"
to "preparing a site". Since a tree or shrub's roots
will extend well beyond the planting hole, it is important
to address the suitability of the broader planting area.
Soil and drainage limitations should always be addressed
before digging the hole. A few digging recommendations
include:
· Whenever possible, trees and shrubs should be placed
in a wide and relatively shallow hole. Think of a bowl
or crater shaped depression that is two to three times
wider than the root system of the plant. A wider hole
allows for easier planting and also provides for quicker
root establishment.
· The root system should rest on undisturbed or solid
soil and the base of the trunk or stems should end up
at the same level as the surrounding soil or just slightly
higher (no more than 2").
· Planting too deep is a major cause of tree death and
decline. Typically, the first lateral roots of woody
plants should be just under the soil surface and the
root collar (or flare) at the base of the trunk should
be visible at ground level. It is sometimes necessary
to remove some of the soil or planting medium from the
top of the pot or root ball to find the root collar
and to insure that proper planting depth is achieved.
Setting the Plant- All containers, including
plastic pots, peat pots, grow bags, burlap and wire
baskets, should be removed as much as possible before
planting is completed. Whenever possible, plants should
be carried by their containers or root balls, not by
their trunks or stems.
· Girdling and/or circling roots are typical in plastic
containers. Such roots should be loosened by hand and
spread out as much as possible before backfilling.
· For balled-and-burlapped stock (B&B), it is important
to remove as much of the burlap and wire retaining basket
(now common on bigger stock) as possible without damaging
the roots. The preferred method of doing this is to
remove the bottom part (1/4 to 1/3) of the basket and
burlap before sliding the plant in the hole. Once the
plant is stabilized in the hole, the remaining burlap
and wire basket should then be cut off and removed.
Another method is to place the plant in the hole with
the burlap and wire completely intact. Once the tree
is stabilized, the wire basket and burlap are cut off
and removed as deep into the hole as possible (no more
than the bottom ¼ of the burlap or wire should remain).
It is also important to remove all rope, wire and/or
twine from around the base of the trunk during the process.
Note: a wider planting hole will be appreciated here
since it allows for easier access to the root ball.
· In almost every instance, the soil removed to dig
the planting hole should be used to backfill around
the plant. The soil should be added gradually with water
used to help settle it around the roots. Care should
be taken not to tamp or compact the soil after the plant
has been watered.
Soil Amendments/Site Modifications- Soil amendments
such as peat moss, compost, sand, or water absorbing
polymers should not be routinely added to the backfill.
Adding soil amendments can create a pot-like situation
where roots may struggle to grow outside of the original
planting hole. Although soil amendments should not be
added directly to a planting hole, some planting sites
may need modification to support trees and shrubs if
the existing soil is found to be compacted, poorly drained
or relatively inorganic. In such cases, the goal is
to prepare the wider planting area and not just individual
planting holes.
· For excessively compacted soils, it may be advisable
to loosen the top several inches of the planting site
whether by hand or with mechanical equipment.
· Organic matter in soils has proven to be beneficial
to the establishment and good health of most tree and
shrubs. For soils that are low in organic matter, materials
such as compost, leaf shreddings, grass clippings, etc.,
can be worked into the top several inches of soil over
the wider planting site before planting is undertaken.
· If poor drainage is the problem, then the planting
site can be raised a few inches. In such a case organic
materials can be combined with a few inches of good
topsoil with the mix then worked into the top few inches
of the planting area.
Fertilizing- Fertilizers are not generally necessary
for most tree and shrub plantings. It has been demonstrated
that most native soils have sufficient nutrients to
support appropriately selected species. However, in
soils with low organic matter or in situations where
a soil test has revealed a nutrient deficiency, a slow-release,
low-nitrogen fertilizer (such as Osmocote™) may
possibly be beneficial. Such soils are sometimes encountered
around new construction where topsoils may have been
replaced by nutrient poor sub soils. If fertilizers
are used, they should be incorporated into the top layer
of the soil rather than deeply in the planting hole.
High nitrogen fertilizers can burn roots of new plants
if they are placed in direct contact with the roots.
Staking and Guying- Staking and guying of new
trees should not be considered an automatic activity,
but rather should only be done if it is necessary to
prevent a tree from blowing over. Many trees are lost
because guying materials are improperly installed or
are not removed. In addition, the natural swaying of
a tree trunk in the wind is important to establishing
a healthy trunk caliper and root system. However, in
the windy Great Plains, especially on open or exposed
sites, trees often do need staking.
A few tips for staking include:
· Staking is more common on exposed sites where there
is very little wind protection.
· Staking is typically less critical for B&B trees with
heavy root balls and for fall planted deciduous trees
that have lost their leaves. Such trees have less surface
area to catch the wind and don't blow over as easily
as trees in full leaf. Trees not staked should be regularly
checked for leaning for several weeks after planting
· To help determine if a tree may need support, the
trunk should be vigorously swayed after planting. If
the root ball is moving in the hole, then the tree likely
needs staking. Another option is to wait after planting
until a good wind blows to see if it will tip or dislodges
the tree. This method works well for container grown
trees that can easily be righted.
· If a tree does need staking, the guying material used
should have a broad surface at the point of contact
with the tree trunk. Canvas strapping, cloth strips
and manufactured tree ties are good choices. Do not
use rope, wire or wire through hose since they can cause
rubbing damage.
· Guying materials can be anchored to two wood or steel
t-posts that are driven into the ground on the south
and north sides of the tree just beyond the root ball.
The guying materials should be attached so that some
free movement of the tree is maintained.
· A single stake driven at an angle across the tree
should not be used since significant rubbing injuries
can occur.
· All guying materials should be removed by the end
of the first growing season. Stakes can be left in the
ground for a longer period of time since they can provide
another barrier of protection against mowers and trimmers.
Mulching- Mulching has proven to be significantly
beneficial to the healthy establishment of young trees
and shrubs and is now considered a standard part of
planting and post-planting care. Mulch has many benefits
including the conservation of moisture in the root zone,
insulation of roots from temperature extremes, reduced
weed and turfgrass competition, addition of organic
matter to the soil and prevention of "mower blight"
(the damage caused to trunks and stems from mowers and
string trimmers).
· Only organic mulches such as wood chips, wood shreddings,
bark and leaf matter should be used. Non-organic mulches
like gravel, white rock or lava rock provide no benefits
to plants and should be avoided.
· Mulch should be applied in a layer no deeper than
2-4". Mulch piled more deeply can cause the root zone
to remain too wet and can also act as another layer
of soil, thus causing roots to suffocate or conversely
to grow into the mulch where they can quickly desiccate.
· Mulch should be kept away from direct contact with
the trunk or stems.
· For individual trees, mulch rings should extend at
least to the drip line (canopy edge of the plant) and
preferably four to five feet wide for the first few
years after planting. As trees mature, this circle can
be expanded as desired - perhaps using the drip line
as the edge. As the circle expands, shade tolerant perennial
plants can be incorporated in the mulch.
· For trees and shrubs planted close together, mulching
should be done in mass - so that the entire group is
mulched in one large bed. This significantly reduces
mower conflicts.
· Mulching should be considered not a one-time effort
but rather an ongoing process. Mulch should be reapplied
every year or two, depending on how fast it breaks down.
· Weeds in a mulch bed should be removed by hand or
only with very careful use of herbicides such as Roundup™
that have very little soil activity.
Landscape Fabric and Weed Barriers- Other than
with windbreak or large conservation plantings where
the use of organic mulches is not possible, landscape
fabrics and plastic weed barriers are not recommended.
Studies show that such products have several problems
including: keeping the soil too moist during wet periods;
limiting moisture absorption during a rain; reducing
the healthy exchange of atmospheric gases important
to root health; and girdling the base expanding tree
trunks. In addition, plastic barriers inevitably shred
and become unsightly over time, thus becoming an added
maintenance task themselves. If a landscape fabric is
used, it should be a type that is proven to biodegrade
within a few years of placement.
Trunk Wrapping- General use of trunk wrap to
prevent winter frost-cracking is not recommended on
newly planted trees. Research has shown that such wrapping
is usually not effective and can actually increase the
harm from some diseases and insects. In addition, tree
wrap can block the photosynthetic food production of
the trunk, which is important to the establishment of
a young tree.
However there are two good reasons for the temporary
use of tree wrap on the lower trunk:
1) to prevent damage during the time a tree is being
transported and handled; and
2) to prevent rabbit damage during the winter.
Paper, plastic or foam based wraps are common for these
purposes. If wrap is used, it should be removed as early
as possible the following spring.
Trunk Guards- In places where trunk damage from
animals and/or mechanical equipment is an ongoing concern,
semi-permanent guards can be used to protect the trunk.
Such guards are available at most nursery or tree care
supply businesses. In addition a simple guard can be
made from perforated drain tile (or other thin plastic
tubing) cut in sections and split down the side so that
it can be placed around the tree trunk.
Plastic guards should be placed only on the lower 10"
to 18" of the trunk and they should monitored regularly
to prevent rubbing and/or girdling injuries. Guards
should be removed completely when a trunk reaches five
to six inches in diameter.
Pruning- General pruning or crown thinning should
not be done to newly planted trees and shrubs except
to remove damaged branches or to address obvious structural
deficiencies such as a double leader. Lower limbs should
remain on a tree for as long as possible after planting
since they manufacture critically needed food and help
shade/protect the lower trunk.
Watering- Proper watering is critical to the
healthy establishment of newly planted trees and shrubs.
Unfortunately both over watering and under watering
are common causes of tree and shrub decline. The best
way to determine if a new plant needs water is to poke
a finger or probe (such as a screwdriver) several inches
into the ground. If the probe comes out wet, don't add
more water. It is important to check for dryness in
the root zone of the plant since the porous medium often
used to grow plants can dry out much faster than the
native soil surrounding it.
Other watering suggestions include:
· On average, newly planted trees and shrubs need about
one inch of water per week applied naturally by rain
or by human watering. Less frequent but deeper watering
is generally more beneficial than frequent light watering
for most woody plants.
· Trees and shrubs planted in sandy, porous conditions
will typically need more water than those planted in
clay or heavy soils.
· Containerized plants are usually grown in a porous
medium that can dry out quickly in hot, windy weather.
Such plants will require more frequent watering than
B&B or bare-root stock.
· Mulch will help keep a root zone moist for longer
periods. As such, it is easier to over water mulched
plantings.
· It is important to realize that turf irrigation requirements
are different from those of trees, shrubs and other
landscape plants. In fact, many landscape plants are
killed when their roots are drowned in heavily irrigated
yards. Ideally plants should be grouped according to
their water requirements and the irrigation system designed
and zoned accordingly. Reducing turf watering and planting
trees and shrubs slightly higher than the surrounding
grade can help when planting within irrigated lawns.
Reference Sited:
UNL
NebGuide G98-1349-A, Woody Landscape Plants: Selection
and Planting
Additional Information can be found on-line at:
Nebraska Statewide
Arboretum
Nebraska Forest Service
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6. Beware of Misleading
Tree Advertisements
By Dennis Adams, Nebraska Forest Service
Many homeowners come down with the spring planting itch
in late winter. Thumbing through spring nursery catalogs
for garden seeds, flowers, trees and shrubs helps break
the winter monotony and satisfy the itch. Seasonal magazines
and newspapers are full of advertisements for shade and
ornamental trees, at this time of year but beware of ads
that proclaim 'super trees'. 'Super trees' usually have
faults not mentioned in the advertisements that should
be investigated before purchase.
Each year it seems a new 'super tree' is promoted. Unsuspecting
buyers are lured by vivid descriptions of amazing growth
and beauty. Generally, these ads refer to the tree by
scientific name only or by an unfamiliar species. These
advertisements are full of exaggerations, such as "the
tree soars into a magnificent tree in just one year."
Also, the price is often exorbitant for the size and species
of tree being promoted.
Two examples of 'super trees' advertised in the past are
Ulmus pumila and Royal Paulownia. It's true that both
trees grow rapidly. However, Ulmus pumila is the
scientific name for common Siberian elm, a non-native,
short-lived elm, susceptible to heavy elm leaf beetle
infestations. The tree does grow very fast, but the result
is brittle wood that breaks easily in storms. Michael
Dirr, author of Manual of Woody Landscape Plants, states
"A poor ornamental tree that does not deserve to be planted
anywhere! One of, if not, the world's worst trees."
Royal Paulownia or Empress Tree, Paulownia tomentosa,
isn't adapted to Nebraska's climate. It grows rapidly,
but usually dies to the ground each winter. Paulownia
is only hardy to Zone 6; hardiness Zone 6 extends north
to approximately central Kansas. Nebraska is encompassed
by hardiness Zones 5 & 4, and experiences winter temperatures
5-15 degrees colder than those in Zone 6. Additionally,
although Paulownia is often sold for its spring flowers,
if the plant lives through the winter, the flowers are
frequently killed by late spring frosts.
Learn the characteristics of trees before purchasing to
assure it meets your needs. Contact a reputable nursery
or your local Cooperative Extension office for more information
about trees adapted to Nebraska's growing conditions.
For more information visit these websites:
Nebraska
Statewide Arboretum Guide to Woody Plants for Nebraska
Nebraska
Statewide Arboretum Native Trees & Shrubs
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7. Perennials for Shade Gardens
By Sarah Browning, UNL Extension Educator
Shady areas in a landscape offer a special opportunity
to create cool, inviting vignettes that help to make the
landscape more appealing during the hot months of summer.
There are many great plants well adapted to growing in
shady areas and often narrowing the choice down to those
that best fit your site's conditions and your personal
taste is the most difficult task. Annual flowers that
grow well in the shade are familiar to most gardeners,
including impatiens; wax begonia; flowering tobacco, Nicotiana
alata; coleus; caladium; and salvia. Some plants like
salvia, flowering tobacco and coleus do best in partial
shade and will not perform as well in dense shade.
Many perennials plants also grow well in shaded areas,
and have the added advantage of not needing to be planted
each spring. Common shade-loving perennials that are familiar
to most gardeners include bugleweed, Ajuga repens;
astilbe, Astilbe x arendsii; columbine, Aquilegia
x hybrida; bleeding heart, Dicentra x hybrida;
foxglove, Digitalis x mertonensis; coralbells,
Heuchera sp.; hosta, Hosta sp.; and vinca,
Vinca minor. Many other great shade-loving perennials
are not as well known including Bergenia, Lady's Mantle,
Pulmonaria, Meadow Rue, Goat's Beard, Lenten Rose and
Meadowsweet.
Bergenia, Bergenia cordifolia,
is also known as pigsqueak; if the leaves are rubbed
just right between the thumb and forefinger, a sound
like a pig squeaking is produced. Panicles of pinkish
flowers are produced in summer, but the main attraction
is the foliage. Bergenia leaves are large, rounded,
leathery and waxy resulting in an eye-catching coarseness
in the garden. The foliage is also evergreen, turning
a deep burgundy in winter. Plant in moist shade
with morning sun and well-drained soil.
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Lady's Mantle, Alchemilla mollis,
is a medium sized plant with hairy, lobed leaves
and foamy, yellowish-green sprays of flowers produced
from late spring to early summer. The densely hairy
leaves are very attractive, especially after a rain
shower or heavy morning dew. The plant grows 20-24
inches tall and requires moist, shady areas in the
garden. The flowers make long-lasting cut flowers.
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Bethlehem sage, Pulmonaria saccharata,
have broadly oval, often blue-green leaves marked
with silvery-white spots. Pink or blue flowers are
produced in spring, often opening pink then changing
to blue before they fade. Moist soil, especially
during hot, dry summers and partial morning sun
produce the best growth. Meadow-rue, Thalictrum
aquilegifolium, has blue-tinted leaves similar to
those of columbine and produces large, puffy, purple
flower panicles. Mature height is usually around
three feet, but can reach up to five feet. Requires
well-drained soil with adequate moisture and partial
shade.
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Goat's Beard, Aruncus dioicus,
grows well in light to medium shade, preferably
afternoon shade, and moist, well-drained soil. It
blooms in early summer with tall, creamy white flower
heads, which resemble larger versions of the flowers
of Astilbe. This plant reaches a mature height of
6 feet, with a spread of 4-6 feet, so give it plenty
of room to grow or place it at the back of the flower
border. Some of the cultivated varieties are smaller,
and should be used in landscapes with limited space.
The leaves are light green, compound leaves are
prone to scorching on the edges if the plant does
not receive sufficient moisture or too much sun.
Hardy to Zone 3. |
. 'Child of Two Worlds'- Height 4';
shorter, more airy form with pendulous, white flowers
. 'Kneiffii'- Height 3'; finely cut, fern-like foliage;
creamy, white flowers
. A. aethusifolius (Dwarf Goat's Beard)- Height
12"; deeply cut, dark green foliage; creamy, white
flowers
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Lenten Rose, Helleborus orientalis,
is one of the most attractive, early flowering plants
and is so easy to grow that no landscape should
be without it. The foliage is semi-evergreen with
dark green, leathery leaves that are divided into
several serrated segments. The purple, pink or cream
colored flowers are nodding and cup-shaped, 3-4"
across and last for 8-10 weeks. Because the flowers
appear during cool weather, often from February
to May, they last for an exceptionally long time.
Plants reach a height of 15" with a similar spread.
Lenten rose requires moist, well-drained soil with
high organic matter content, and light to intermittent
shade. Hardy to Zone 5.
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Meadowsweet, Filipendula sp.,
is a genus of plants that were originally part of
the Spiraea family and are often still referred
to as False Spirea. The plants have alternate, lobed
leaves that provide a contrasting coarse texture
to the perennial garden. The inflorescence consists
of small white or pink flowers held above the foliage
in large, showy panicles. Plant height ranges from
2-6 feet depending on the cultivar. Meadowsweet
requires moist, well-drained soil with high organic
matter content, and light to intermittent shade.
F. rubra, known as Queen-of-the-Prairie, is native
to the eastern and central U.S. and is known to
support itself well even in high winds. It also
produces large pink flower heads from summer till
fall, but it's imposing size, 6-8 feet, can limit
it's use in smaller home landscapes. Below are more
cultivars worth trying. Hardy to Zone 3. . F. rubra
'Venusta'- Height 6-8 feet; deep pink to carmine
flowers
. F. ulmaria- Height 3-4 feet; creamy-white fragrant
flowers
. F. vulgaris- Height 2 feet; misty clusters of
ivory flowers; finely textured, fern-like foliage |
For more information:
Growing
Perennials
Perennials
Plants
for Shade Landscapes
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8. Growing Annual Flowers
By Sarah Browning, UNL Extension Educator
Annual flowers can be a wonderful source of color to accent
and enliven a home's landscape during the summer. The
wide range of colors, sizes and species adapted to either
sun or shade makes it possible to plant annual flowers
almost anywhere. But for many people, growing healthy,
attractive annual flowers is a frustrating and difficult
task. Here are a few points to make your flowers as beautiful
as they can be this summer.
Before planting, make sure that the soil in the planting
area is loose, well drained and has a high level of organic
matter. Annual flowers will grow much better in this type
of soil; it allows the roots to develop and grow much
easier than heavy clay soils. Dry sandy soils should be
amended with organic matter to increase water-holding
capacity. If additional organic matter is needed, add
compost or peat moss.
Although some annual plants tolerate cooler conditions,
most should be planted outdoors only after the danger
of frost is past. Plant during the coolest part of the
day, preferably when it is cloudy. Moisten plants before
removing them from their containers. If roots are pot-bound,
slightly tear the root ball to encourage spreading. Remove
all pots, including peat pots. Set the plants at the recommended
spacing and cover them with soil to the depth of their
original container. Firm the soil around the roots and
water immediately.
Most plants respond well to pinching at planting time.
Pinching, or removing the early flowers, allows the plant's
energy to be used to establish the plant's roots rather
than support flowers. Pinching also induces branching,
which will, eventually, increase the number of flowering
stems. For best results, pinch off the first and second
set of leaves at the top of the plant stems.
Annual flowers generally require 1 to 1 1/2 inches of
water each week. Be sure the water penetrates to the root
zone, especially when planting into ground beds. Generally,
hand watering is not adequate to supply sufficient and
uniform amounts of water. Soaker hoses or sprinklers are
more satisfactory watering methods. Soaker hoses are the
most efficient because there is very little runoff, and
evaporation and soil compaction are slight. Avoid overhead
watering, particularly in the evening. Foliar diseases
can be reduced by watering in early morning, rather than
at night.
Annual flower plantings will require additional fertilizer
during the growing season. Fertilize plants at a rate
of 1/2 to 1 pound of 5-10-5 per 100 square feet every
4 to 6 weeks. Sprinkle the fertilizer lightly along the
row and scratch it into the soil. Container plants should
receive a weekly application of a water soluble fertilizer,
like Schult's Plant Food, Miracle Grow, Peter's Fertilizer
or any other water soluble fertilizer. Do not fertilize
plants when they are wilted; instead water the plants
with plain water first, then fertilize them after they
have recovered.
Pinch off faded blooms at least weekly to stimulate blooming
throughout the season. Trailing plants, such as fibrous
begonia, petunias, pansies and coleus, can be pruned to
keep the plants compact and stimulate additional blooming.
Removing faded flowers prevents the plants from forming
seed. As a result, they will bloom again in an effort
to complete the life cycle.
For more information:
Growing
Annual Flowers
Annual
Flowers for Nebraska
Annual
Flowers for Specific Uses in Nebraska
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9. Acreage Wildlife
By Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator
Much has been written about attracting wildlife to our
homes and yards, but in some cases even the creatures
we initially welcome can become nuisances. Deer, Canada
geese, and cute little bunnies come to mind. Wild creatures
can wear out their welcome when our landscape plants become
their preferred foods.
There are a few plants less attractive to twig and bark
nibblers such as deer and rabbits. These plants may have
thorny defenses or may contain chemicals that actually
disrupt digestion. Spruces, firs, and red cedar (juniper)
are conifers that are usually left alone until more favored
foods are gone. They may still be attacked by buck deer
rubbing "felt" off their antlers in the fall, though.
Shrubs and small trees that are less attractive to deer
and rabbits include barberry, lilacs, forsythia, and both
Russian and autumn olives. The latter two should be considered
with caution because they can become invasive weeds in
woods and unmowed areas. Trees from the legume family
such as locusts are also less favored.
The famous movie quote, "build it and they will come,"
might be paraphrased to "plant it and they will come"
with regard to acreage wildlife. Creatures will eat nearly
anything we plant in our yards and gardens, and a few
seem to have a particular taste for the more expensive
decorative ornamentals. Remember that under severe winter
stress wildlife will eat even things they normally avoid.
You can select plants that are less attractive to wild
animals, but you may still need to rely on repellents
or exclusion with fences to save your favorite landscape
plants from the neighbors that lived on the land before
you arrived.
Other publications worth viewing are:
Assistance
With Wildlife Damage Problems in Nebraska
Windbreaks
and Wildlife
Backyard
Wildlife Tips for Success
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10. Slow Cooker Cooking Not Just
For Winter
By Nancy Urbanec, UNL Extension Educator
It may seem like a relic from a bygone age, but the slow
cooker, still deserves a place of honor in the kitchen
of today's busy American family. Maybe not the one that
you sold for $2.00 at the garage sale several years ago,
but one that has a removable crock and programmable thermostat
that cooks for a set time and then switches to a warming
mode. This kitchen appliance takes less electricity than
an oven to use and during the warmer months it won't add
heat to your kitchen like the oven would. It will also
allow you to tackle the outside work without worrying
about what you will be serving for supper when you walk
into the house hungry.
The slow cooker, a countertop appliance, cooks food slowly
at a low temperature - generally between 170° to 280°F.
The low heat help less expensive, leaner cuts of meat
become tender and shrink less. The direct heat from the
pot, lengthy cooking time and steam created within the
tightly-covered container combine to destroy bacteria
and make the slow cooker a safe process for cooking foods.
Always defrost meat and poultry before putting it into
a slow cooker. Cut foods into chunks or small pieces to
ensure thorough cooking. Placing larger pieces of meat
in the slow cooker can cook too slowly and let the food
remain in the danger zone too long, which could promote
bacterial growth.
Fill a cooker no less than half full and no more than
two-thirds full. Vegetables cook slower than meat and
poultry in a slow cooker, so place them at the bottom
and around the sides of the appliance. Then add meat and
cover the food with liquid such as broth, water or barbecue
sauce. The delicious aromas wafting from your slow cooker
may tempt you to peek inside, but don't unless the recipe
instructs you to. It takes about 20 minutes for the cooker
to regain that lost heat.
Most cookers have two or more settings. Foods take different
times to cook depending upon the setting used. Certainly,
foods will cook faster on high than on low. However, for
all day cooking or for less tender cuts of meat, you may
want to use the low setting.
If possible, turn the cooker on the highest setting for
the first hour of cooking time and then to low. However,
it's safe to cook foods on low the entire time.
While food is cooking and once it's done, food will stay
safe as long as the cooker is operating.
Slow Cooker Chicken and Veggie Bake
8 boneless, skinless chicken breast
2 cans whole potatoes, drained
1 tsp garlic
1 bottle fat free Italian salad dressing
1 package frozen vegetables
1 can water chestnuts (optional)
salt and pepper
Sprinkle chicken breasts with salt, pepper, and garlic.
Put vegetables in bottom of slow cooker. Add chicken.
Cook on high for 4-6 hours or on low for 8-10 hours. Serves
8.
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