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1. Nebraska Conservation Trees Selling Fast
By Dennis Adams, Nebraska Forest Service
If planning to plant a windbreak, woodlot, wildlife habitat or Christmas tree plantation this spring, don’t put off ordering tree and shrub seedlings.
The spring planting season is rapidly approaching, tree and shrub seedlings are selling quickly. Over 1 million tree and shrub seedlings are available through the Nebraska Conservation Trees program this year, but several species have already sold out.
Tree and shrub seedlings for conservation purposes are sold by Natural Resource Districts. The price this year averages about 70 cents per seedling.
Order tree and shrub seedlings now before this year’s supply is depleted. Order information is available at a local NRD, Natural Resources Conservation Service or Nebraska Forest Service office.
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2. Several Winter Injuries Can Cause Yellowing or Browning of Pine Trees
By Dennis Adams, Nebraska Forest Service
"What is causing the yellowing or browning of my pine trees?" is a common question about this time of year. Winter burn and winter drying are two common injuries to trees caused by weather.
Winter burn refers to the browning of the needles on coniferous trees during the winter months. Winter burn is caused by rapid temperature changes, particularly on the south sides of trees where there is more exposure to the sun. Rapid temperature changes, which occur most often during sunset and sunrise, damage or kill needle tissues. Injured trees will usually recover, if damage is not too severe, as new growth from healthy buds cover damaged areas.
Winter drying damages both evergreen and deciduous trees. The actual damage occurs in late winter or early spring, but the symptoms may not show up until growth begins in the spring. Winter drying is caused by the dessication of foliage and twigs by warm, dry winds, when water conduction is restricted by the freezing of plant tissues or by frozen soil. All trees transpire (lose) water, even during the winter months.
Sometimes this loss is greater than the roots can replace, so drying damage results. Minor damage results in reddening or browning of foliage, which may later recover. Symptoms of more severe injury include browning and the subsequent death of branch tips or entire branches. The side of the tree facing prevailing winds is most susceptible to winter drying.
Often a combination of winter burn and winter drying will occur, occasionally complicated by drought. If damage is severe enough, affected branches may die. Sometimes the entire tree may be killed.
Little can be done to control the weather, but a few precautions can be taken to reduce the possibility of damage:
- Choose species which are hardy and best adapted to the area.
- Plant in well-drained, deep soils.
- Plant where trees may be protected from winds and sun.
- Water trees thoroughly in the fall and during the winter when water can be taken from the soil.
- Mulch around trees to prevent deep freezing.
- Maintain a fertile, well-aerated soil to encourage deep root growth.
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3. Sphaeropsis Tip Blight of Pine
By Amy Ziems, UNL Extension Educator- Plant Pathology
Browning and death of branch tips, common in older, well-established pine plantings, is often due to Sphaeropsis tip blight (also known as Diplodia tip blight), a fungal disease caused by Sphaeropsis sapinea (syn. Diplodia pinea). Infection kills major branches and may even kill the entire tree under high disease pressure.
Sphaeropis sapinea can infect young trees too, but the disease becomes increasingly more common and destructive as trees approach 30 years of age. Tip blight commonly occurs in landscape, windbreak and park plantings, but seldom found in natural pine stands. Several pine species can be infected. In this region the disease is most severe on Austrian pine (Pinus nigra) and ponderosa pine (P. Ponderosa), but it can also damage Scotch pine (P. sylvestris) and mugo pine (P. mugo).
Learn more . . .
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4. Pruning Primer for Small Trees and Shrubs
By Karma Larsen, Nebraska Statewide Arboretum
Small trees and shrubs are an important part of most landscapes. While foliage can hide problems through the growing season, this is a good time of year to take a close look at branching patterns. It's also a good time to prune most woody plants. An easy rule of thumb is to "prune any time but leaf on or leaf off" -- in other words, when the plant's energy is focused on new growth or hardening off for winter.
Safety is an important issue for large trees, and pruning a good-sized tree can be expensive and require specialized skills and equipment. Fortunately, though, even large-maturing trees that are carefully pruned when small will be stronger and require very little pruning once mature.
Small and young trees are pruned primarily for plant health and for aesthetics. But even the smallest woody plant can quickly turn into a mass of tangled branches.
Where to begin?
- Start by removing branches that are dead or injured from disease, insects, winds, etc. The pruning cut should be angled from the base of the trunk about an inch or so out (a slightly elevated ridge of bark may be visible).
- Eliminate branches that are rubbing against other branches.
- Remove branches with weak or narrow angles of attachment, which are likely to crack or break off. Branches that are angled 60-70 degrees out from the trunk are much stronger.
- Prune to encourage and not interfere with flowering, usually immediately after flowering: lilac, magnolia, chokeberry, chokecherry, serviceberry, clove currant, forsythia, early-blooming spirea, viburnum, etc.
- Shrubs grown for foliage -- burning bush, dogwood, honeysuckle, ninebark, sumac -- should be pruned before leafing occurs.
- Prune to increase air flow, or to allow sunlight for plants underneath the tree.
- Remove sprouts and suckers in early summer to minimize re-growth.
With newly planted trees, avoid excessive pruning while the plant is developing its root system. Cut back only dead or injured branches to limit plant stress. The main trunk will develop more quickly if lower branches are left on for several years. A few months after transplanting, prune to maintain a central leader and to space branches out around the trunk and vertically.
Deciduous shrubs can be improved in a number of ways: thinning them out from near the base will result in a more open plant and won't stimulate excessive growth. For gradual renewal or rejuvenation, remove older, longer branches near ground level over a period of several years.
With narrow-leaved evergreens like arborvitae, pfitzer junipers and yews, remove dead branches as they occur. To encourage compact growth, the tip ends of new growth can be trimmed each year.
Pines and most other evergreens require very little pruning, although it may be necessary to remove multiple leaders to encourage the growth of a central leader.
Well-shaped deciduous hedges require some effort. To induce low-branching, it's best to select small shrubs with multiple stems and cut them back to 6-8 inches at the time of planting. Prune off half the new growth the following season, and again the following year. It's best to trim when new growth is less than 1 foot long. Evergreen hedges can be shaped as they grow, but not as severely as deciduous since new growth is less likely to occur. Keep the top of the hedge narrower than lower branches. Rounded shapes require less trimming than straight sides and the more natural the pruning, the more likely it is to maintain its shape.
To avoid disease and insect problems, avoid pruning elms from April to October; oaks from April to June when they may be susceptible to oak wilt; and birches in June, when weeping from the cuts may attract insects or diseases.
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5. Livestock Safety
By Jill Webster, Ph.D. and Mark Gonzalez, Graduate Assistant
Agricultural Systems Technology and Education
Utah State University
One of the most important issues for consideration when handling livestock is safety. Although considered domesticated animals, working with livestock carries with it an inherent risk of danger. It is important to understand that livestock have both instincts and habits, known as behavior patterns, that are based on actions that make them the most comfortable. These instincts and habits allow them to react to changes in their environment. Many instincts and habits are strong and potentially dangerous. Using common sense, practicing caution, and understanding livestock behavior can greatly reduce a handlers risk and enable him or her to work safely with livestock. This article will detail some important livestock behaviors as well as cautionary tips to practice when handling livestock.
Learn more...
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6. Tall Fescue for Horses
By
Bruce Anderson, UNL Extension Forage Specialist
Horses and tall fescue pasture can be good, bad, or just plain ugly.
Tall fescue is a durable, high yielding cool-season grass with many desirable characteristics for a pasture grass. When we use it with horses, however, we must be very careful to use the right kind.
Most older, traditional fescue varieties contain an internal fungus, or endophyte, that produces chemicals that help plants resist insects and diseases and make it more durable, which is good. This helps fescue survive abuse by grazing horses, which might make fescue the best choice for pastures used as exercise lots or that receive a lot of close, continuous grazing.
One problem, though. These endophyte chemicals also cause severe reproductive problems for horses. Mares can abort or have stillborn foals. The gestation period is longer and foaling problems are more common for mares grazing endophyte-infected fescue. After foaling they may fail to produce milk and they can have trouble conceiving again.
Obviously, avoid endophyte-infected fescue if you plan on breeding your horses. But this doesn’t mean avoiding fescue completely. Several new varieties do not have endophytes, so they also don’t have the chemicals that cause these reproductive problems. These endophyte-free fescues are safe to use with breeding stock. Endophyte-free fescues may not be quite as durable as their problem-causing cousins, but they still will persist in well-managed pastures.
So, to summarize, use endophyte-infected fescue where durability and persistence are most important. But when breeding stock are involved, only use endophyte-free varieties. Your horses will stay healthy and you’ll sleep better at night.
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7. Pasture Management,
By Monte Stauffer, UNL Extension Educator
Most acreages with livestock use grass pastures to meet much of the nutrient needs of their animals. Whether you have horses, calves, sheep, or goats, the better you manage a pasture, the more nutritious grass it will produce.
The first decision to make is to determine if the grassy area will be treated as an exercise lot or managed to get maximum production. If the area is grazed continuously year round by a large number of animals, it should be managed differently than if the grass is allowed to grow up and be allowed a rest period. Areas heavily grazed will not show much benefit to fertilization. They should be seeded with a grass that can withstand heavy traffic and close grazing. One grass like this is fescue.
If you want maximum production, select a variety of grass that will respond to fertilization. The nutrient that grass uses the most is nitrogen. This nutrient can be supplied by liquid, or granular and organic and inorganic fertilizer. Rates of nitrogen applied should range from 40-80 lbs. per acre depending on fertilizer cost, soil moisture condition, and thickness of the grass stand. Fertilizer should be applied during April to stimulate cool season grass growth and discourage other weeks and grasses that begin growing later in the season.
Seeding of pastures should be done in April or early September to get some growth in the spring before hot weather occurs or frost occurs in the fall.
Weed control is also an important management practice. The key is to clip or spray the invasive weeds when they are small and in the vegetative stage. Once weeds bloom and form a seed head, control is more difficult. Some weeds germinate in early spring and some germinate and begin growth by mid-summer.
A rotational grazing system with 3 or more pastures allows grasses to rest, which allows them to develop leaf surface that catches sunlight, conducts photosynthesis, and builds up root reserves for maximum growth of both roots and leaves.
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8. Removing Skunk Odor
By Stephen Vantassel, UNL Extension Project Coordinator-Wildlife Damage
Skunks are famous for their odorous defensive spray. When alarmed or threatened, skunks have been known to spray people, pets, and automobiles. They also spray in basements, garages, window wells, and under porches. The musk they spray is a yellow-tinted oily liquid stored in two sacks located on opposite sides of the anus. Each sack holds about a teaspoon of musk, enough to allow multiple sprays. Skunk musk does not emanate from the animal as it does in the PePe LePew cartoon; it is discharged through two "ducts" that allow the skunk to adjust the spray to a mist or stream, to direct it at a specific target, and to shoot up to 20 feet with "both barrels."
Skunk musk can temporarily blind and stun individuals unlucky enough to be sprayed in the face. Victims experience watering eyes, nasal irritation, and nausea. Asthmatics also may experience breathing difficulties when exposed to the odor. The rabies virus is not transmitted through skunk musk.
Learn more . . .
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9. Drinking Water Treatment: Shock Chlorination
By Sharon Skipton, UNL Extension Water Quality Educator
Protecting private water supplies from bacterial contamination is critical to assuring good water quality. Shock chlorination can eliminate bacteria from water systems.
Learn more . . .
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10. Application of Preemergence Herbicides
By John Fech, UNL Extension Educator
Crabgrass is a common weed in many lawns. Crabgrass is an annual, warm-season grass that begins to germinate when soil temperatures reach 55 F. Germination usually begins in late April in eastern Nebraska. Crabgrass continues to germinate over several weeks from spring into summer.
While crabgrass germination begins in the spring, it doesn't become highly visible in lawns until summer. Crabgrass is a low growing, spreading plant with light blue-green foliage. The leaf blades are approximately 1/4 inch wide. Seedheads appear as several finger-like projections atop upright stems. Crabgrass grows rapidly during warm summer weather. Growth slows with the arrival of cooler temperatures in late summer. Plants are destroyed with the first hard frost in the fall. However, before it dies a single crabgrass plant can produce up to 150,000 seeds.
According to Richard Jauron, horticulturist with Iowa State University , the best way to prevent crabgrass infestations in lawns is to maintain a thick, healthy lawn through proper mowing, irrigation, and fertilization. Crabgrass will have a difficult time germinating and surviving in a thick turf.
Gardeners who have had crabgrass problems in the past will need to apply preemergence herbicides in the spring. Preemergence herbicides must be applied before the seeds germinate and are not effective on emerged weeds. Several preemergence herbicides will control crabgrass in established lawns. These include pendimethalin, dimension and prodiamine. Often these herbicides are combined with a turf-type fertilizer. This allows the gardener to apply a preemergence herbicide and fertilizer with one application.
If you intend to establish a new lawn from seed this spring, the only preemergence herbicide that can be used is siduron (Tupersan). This herbicide effectively controls crabgrass without affecting the germination of the turfgrass seeds.
Gardeners can also control crabgrass by applying corn gluten meal. A corn milling byproduct, corn gluten meal inhibits the root growth of crabgrass seedlings. Unable to develop roots, the crabgrass seedlings die. In addition to crabgrass, corn gluten meal offers pre-emergent control of dandelion, plantain, lambsquarter and other weeds. Corn gluten meal is approximately 10 percent nitrogen by weight, thus making it a natural "weed and feed" product. Products containing corn gluten meal are available at garden centers and mail order companies.
The keys to successful control of crabgrass in lawns are correct timing of the preemergence herbicide application and proper application of the material. Preemergence herbicides must be applied before the crabgrass germinates. If the material is applied too early, the crabgrass that germinates late in the season will not be controlled. If applied too late, some crabgrass will have already germinated. Preemergence herbicides should normally be applied from mid-April to early May, and a second application made approximately eight weeks later (depending on the product used) to provide mid to late summer control.
To insure the herbicide is applied properly, carefully read and follow the label directions on the package. Also, make sure the spreader has been correctly calibrated and is working properly.
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11. Life Expectancy of Vegetable Seeds
By John Fech, UNL Extension Educator
Have you run out of garden space and found yourself holding half-full packages of vegetable seeds? If you have extra seed, don't throw it away. According to James Romer, horticulturist with Iowa State University, there are some vegetables that will still be viable. If you have seed from previous years, examine them. For example, if the seeds are normally round in shape, but now have divots and indentations, the seed may no longer be viable.
If you are still unsure of the seed quality, a germination test can be done. Simply take twenty seeds of the vegetable variety. Moisten a paper towel and place the seeds on it. Roll up the towel and place it in a germination chamber at 70 to 80 degrees Farenheight. What? You don't have a germination chamber? A plastic bag with a label of the vegetable variety will work just fine for your purposes.
Check the seeds after 2 or 3 days, then every day for a week or two. Divide the number of seeds germinated by the number of seeds tested. This will give you the germination percentage. If handled with care, germinated seeds may be planted in the garden if the danger of frost has past.
Another alternative is to plant the seedlings in flats, pots or trays until they can be transplanted outdoors.
To help you in deciding if your vegetable seeds are viable, a chart with approximate life expectancies is provided below. Unused seeds should be stored in a cool, dry location.
| Approximate life expectancy of vegetable seeds stored under favorable conditions. |
| Vegetable |
Years |
Vegetable |
Years |
| Asparagus |
3 |
Leek |
2 |
| Bean |
3 |
Muskmelon |
5 |
| Beet |
4 |
Mustard |
4 |
| Broccoli |
3 |
New Zealand spinach |
3 |
| Brussels sprouts |
4 |
Okra |
2 |
| Cabbage |
4 |
Onion |
1 |
| Carrot |
3 |
Parsley |
1 |
| Cauliflower |
4 |
Parsnip |
1 |
| Celeriac |
3 |
Pea |
3 |
| Celery |
3 |
Pepper |
2 |
| Chinese cabbage |
3 |
Pumpkin |
4 |
| Chicory |
4 |
Radish |
5 |
| Cucumber |
5 |
Rutabaga |
4 |
| Collards |
5 |
Salsify |
1 |
| Eggplant |
4 |
Spinach |
3 |
| Endive |
5 |
Squash |
4 |
| Fennel |
4 |
Sweet Corn |
2 |
| Kale |
4 |
Swiss Chard |
4 |
| Kohlrabi |
3 |
Tomato |
4 |
| Lettuce |
6 |
Turnip |
4 |
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Watermelon |
4 |
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12. Maintenance and Service of Unpaved Roads
Disturbances to unpaved roadway surfaces and ditches, and poor road surface drainage always result in deterioration of the road surface. This deterioration is the erosion which accounts for a large percentage of unpaved road maintenance costs and stream sedimentation. Frequent, excessive, and unnecessary disturbances to the roadways are all too common. Proper and timely surface maintenance, selectively performed, will help reduce the amount of roadway being disturbed, and will reduce the amount and frequency of disturbance to the section of roadway requiring maintenance.
Learn more . . .
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13. Phragmites
Phragmites, or common reed has recently become a major pest in Nebraska wetland ecosystems. It is a fast spreading species which grows along, rivers, streams, marshes, floodplains and lakeshores, and has been seen in all 48 mainland states. In Nebraska, Phragmites has begun to overrun most of the ecosystems, especially along the Platte, from Wyoming to Minden and expanding. Presently there are over 100 sites with Phragmites in Lancaster county. Because of its invasion, the Nebraska Department of Agriculture has designated phragmites as a noxious weed statewide.
Learn more . . .
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UPCOMING EVENTS
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14. National Small Food Manufacturer Conference, April 23-24
Heat up your food business. All small food
manufacturers are invited to attend the
National Small Food Manufacturer Conference presented by
The University of Nebraska- Lincoln Food Processing Center.
This conference is the first national conference designed specifically for micro and small food manufacturers throughout the country. It includes current topics and industry recognized national speakers which will educate and motivate participants. Attendees will:
- Learn from national industry respected, knowledgeable speakers
- Learn how to expand and grow their businesses
- Participate in interactive sessions
- Explore new opportunities
- Network with peers and industry experts
Date: April 23-24, 2009
Location:
Holiday Inn – Downtown, Lincoln NE
For more information or to register for the conference please visit the conference website.
For contact Jill Gifford
Phone:
(402) 472-2819
Email: jgifford1@unl.edu
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15. From Recipe to Reality Seminar, May 15
The Food Processing Center is offering a one-day seminar for all individuals interested in exploring the idea of starting a food manufacturing business. Pre-registration is required and space is limited. Registration deadline: December 19.
Additional program dates for 2009 in Lincoln, NE - May 15, May 16 (presented in Spanish), August 15, October 3.
Other locations-
February 28 in Storm Lake, Iowa; March 17 in Spearfish, South Dakota; May 2 in Shreveport, Louisiana; and May 20 in Chicago, Illinois.
Contact Jill Gifford at (402) 472-2819 or jgifford1@unl.edu for an information packet. For more information and to register for the program, visit the UNL Food Processing's Food Entrepreneur web site.
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