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2. Lagoons For Acreage Waste Water Treatment
By Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator
The lagoon system is an effective method of home sewage treatment and is
well-suited for larger lot areas having very slow soil percolation rates.
This system generally discharges home sewage directly into the lagoon.
Properly designed and sized lagoons use evaporation for dewatering. Both
aerobic and anaerobic decomposition occur in lagoon treatment of home
sewage. Anaerobic treatment generally occurs at and near the bottom of
lagoons where settled solids and sludges accumulate. This treatment is
similar to the anaerobic treatment that occurs in septic tanks. Aerobic
treatment occurs in the presence of oxygen and usually occurs near the
lagoon surface. Aerobic treatment aids in reducing the odors released
during anaerobic treatment and also provides additional treatment of home
sewage. Wind movement aids in mixing oxygen into the lagoon surface and
helps to increase evaporation.
Proper lagoon sizing and construction is essential for holding and treating
home sewage. The surface area of a lagoon must be at least 900 square feet.
When more than 5 people live in a house, an additional 175 square feet of
lagoon surface area is required for each person. Lagoon length should not
exceed three times its width and the liquid depth is about 3 feet. For ease
of mowing, the lagoon should have side slopes of three units horizontal to
one unit vertical. It may also be necessary to place a diversion terrace
around part of the lagoon to keep surface water from entering into it.
Lagoons must be at least 50 feet from any property line and 200 feet from
neighboring residences. Therefore, the minimum size lot area for lagoon
construction is 3 acres. Lagoons must be enclosed with a 4 foot high fence
having a locking gate, and signs stating: NO TRESPASSING--WASTE LAGOON.
In areas where the soil is not conducive to compaction, additional
materials such as soda ash, bentonite, or plastic liners may be required to
completely retain seepage of effluent. Open water during the summer months
provides a nesting ground for mosquitos, which requires mowing of the
lagoon banks to reduce possible mosquito breeding area.
For more information refer to:
NebGuide 1441, Residential On-site Waste Water Treatment- Lagoon Design and Construction, http://ianrpubs.unl.edu/wastemgt/g1441.htm
NebGuide 1423, Residential On-site Waste Water Treatment- Lagoon Maintenance, http://ianrpubs.unl.edu/wastemgt/g1423.htm
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3. Green Plant Material is a Common Sight on Area Ponds
By Gary Lesoing, UNL Extension Educator
As I have traveled around southeastern Nebraska the past few weeks, many of the
ponds had a significant amount of plant growth on the water. Some
ponds had a definite green color and had plants growing over much of the surface.
Other ponds had a dark green or black mat algae floating on the surface. As you
may recall, in 2004 there was major concern with toxic blue-green algae in lakes
and ponds in southeast Nebraska. There have been some reports this year as well,
and there is the potential for the toxic
blue-green algae again throughout the summer of 2005.
Blue-green algae
causes the water in your pond to have a pea-soup green color, but if your water is pea-soup green that
doesn't necessarily mean it is toxic. If you are concerned about toxic
blue-green algae on your pond or lake, a kit is available from the
University of Nebraska Water Center for sampling the water. For more
information or to get a test kit call Hilary Hansen at (402) 472-8190 or go
to the UNL Water Center website at http://watercenter.unl.edu/.
Even if the plant material on your pond isn't toxic, it still can cause
problems. It looks unsightly and can produce noxious odors. There are
different types of algae that occur in three forms: planktonic,
filamentous, and macrophytic. Planktonic algae are single-celled
microscopic plants that float on the surface of the water and, if abundant,
will turn the water green. Filamentous algae are the type of algae that we
call moss or pond scum and we get our fishing lines tangled up them. Macrophytic algae resemble true plants. Chara is a common type, which is
course to the touch due to lime (calcium carbonate) deposits on its
surface, and has a strong musky odor.
The extent of algae in your pond or lake
is usually dependent upon the amount of nutrients, particularly nitrogen and phosphorus,
that runs into your pond. Heavy rains after fertilizer
application to a pasture or field may increase the amount of
nutrients that enter your pond. Runoff from a cattle lot or a field where
manure has been spread may also contribute organic matter and other
nutrients that promote algae growth. Anything you can do to reduce the
amount of nutrients, especially phosphorus, entering your pond will help
control algae growth. The use of grass in buffer strips around the pond
and in water ways entering the pond will help filter out some of the
nutrients.
So if you have a problem with algae or other aquatic plants on your pond
what can be done about it? Ideally your pond should have aquatic plants on
about 15-20% of its bottom and surface. If it has more than this, control
should be considered. A common practice that has been used for many years
is treatment with copper containing compounds such as copper sulfate or
Cutrine Plus to directly control algae growth. The concern with these
chemicals is that they are toxic to non-target species and repeated
treatment may cause a buildup of copper in pond sediment,
causing environmental and health concerns.
If a large area of
your pond is covered with algae only treat a part of it, say 1/3
of the area; because as the treated plants die and decompose, they deplete oxygen in the water. Low oxygen levels
may contribute to fish kill. If you use chemical control, be
sure to follow label directions for treatment.
Although it isn't much fun, some people try to reduce algae by raking
it up and removing it from the pond. This should be done with caution,
because toxic blue-green algae can cause irritation to the skin. You
may want to test the algae for toxicity before using this method.
While this will
not help you this summer, a recent method that is being used some in
Nebraska and other states is the treatment in the spring with barley straw.
Research has shown that the addition of barley straw, in mid to late April
will control summer algae growth in Nebraska ponds. As barley straw decomposes
it produces a chemical that inhibits algae growth. If you have a history
of algae problems on your pond, it is recommended to apply 225 pounds of
barley straw per surface acre. For more information on this method, there
is a NebFact 429 "Controlling Pond Algae with Barley Straw", http://ianrpubs.unl.edu/wildlife/nf429.htm. I know
there isn't much barley grown in Nebraska, so this may be an opportunity
for a value-added enterprise.
If you have other plants that are growing on the surface of your pond, such
as duckweed or watermeal, these can be controlled by manually removing them
with a rake. If you have too big of an area to control, there are
chemicals that can be used such as Sonar-AS, Reward, Weedtrine-D and Reward
and Cutrine Plus Liquid.
Plants that are growing out of control along the
edge of the pond, such as cattails or water primrose, also need to be
controlled. Cattails can be controlled chemically with Rodeo, Weedtrine-D,
or Reward. Water primrose is controlled with Rodeo.
If you are unsure of what plants you have on or around your pond, feel free
to bring in a sample to your local University of Nebraska- Lincoln Extension office.
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4. Controlling Pond Plant Growth with Bottom Barriers
By Tadd Barrow, UNL Water Resource Specialist
Although plants are an important part of a lake's ecosystem, it's important to control their growth to assure a healthy, aesthetic environment. This NebGuide offers ideas for controlling plant growth.
Rooted aquatic plants are a natural part of the lake ecosystem and comprise a critical component of a healthy lake. They stabilize shorelines, oxygenate water, provide cover and spawning areas for fish, and provide habitat for aquatic invertebrates that are critical for juvenile fish growth. Uncontrolled plant growth, however, quickly can overtake swimming beaches, impede boating access around docks, limit angler success, and may result in an aesthetically unwelcome situation. When excessive vegetation growth affects the recreational and economic potential of a lake, it may be desirable to directly control rooted aquatic vegetation. Typically this is accomplished through the application of herbicides. Bottom barriers, however, provide an alternative method that avoids the environmental, health, social and economic concerns that can be associated with chemical treatments
Continued...
NebGuide 1529, Controlling Pond Plant Growth with Bottom Barriers, http://ianrpubs.unl.edu/wildlife/g1529.htm
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5. Does Your Property Need a Conservation Buffer?
By Steve Karloff, Nebraska Forest Service
What are Conservation Buffers? A conservation buffer is a narrow strip of land consisting of a permanent vegetation type, such as grass, trees, shrubs or a combination of the three, planted along the edge of a stream or pond. The benefits of these buffers are many, and can have a positive impact on your property. Listed below are several of the advantages associated with conservation buffers.
- Reduce the risk of water contamination by catching pesticides and fertilizers before they can wash into streams and ponds.
- Provide the habitat needed by wildlife and aquatic animals and plants.
- Provide a safety zone between the field and the edge of a stream to keep equipment and operators away from the edge of steep embankments.
- Can help reduce or slow down steep bank erosion by establishing permanent vegetation.
- Eliminate farming of wet areas along streams and ponds that are often difficult to manage profitably.
- Eliminate following the edge of a meandering stream that can lead to many short crop rows.
- Provide an area for alternative crop production.
The USDA Farm Service Agency (FSA) offers an annual rental payment for establishing or improving conservation buffers. The Continuous Conservation Reserve Program (CRP) assists with 90% of the average cost of establishing these buffer strips. The program also provides an annual payment based on soil rental rates determined for each county. The annual payments are generally between $120 and $150 per acre per contract year. The contract length is from 10 to 15 years. There is also a one time incentive payment of $10 per acre for each year of the contract.
Continuous CRP is an open enrollment program. A landowner or operator may sign up for the program at any time with their local FSA office. The State of Nebraska, Local Natural Resources District (NRD) and other non-profit groups may have additional programs to help get conservation buffers planted along streams and ponds.
For more information on this program, contact you local USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service, USDA Farm Service Agency, or Natural Resources District office.
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6. Plant A Fall Garden
By John Fech, UNL Extension Educator
After some of your vegetable plants produced their finest fruits is the
time to plant some more! Fall is for planting, so says the Nursery
Council...... Certainly it is for planting veggies. Crops such as
broccoli, cauliflower, Brussel sprouts and kale will develop under the cool
conditions of September and October much better than the heat of June and
July.
To grow a fall garden, rogue out any spring veggies that may be ailing or
are at the end of their productivity. Next apply a couple of inches of
compost to replenish nutrients that spring crops may have taken out of the
soil. Work the compost in with a spade, and prepare the seed bed at the
same time.
Soak the seeds overnight before planting to enhance germination. Plant the
seeds a bit deeper than you would in the spring to compensate for warmer
soil temperatures. Transplants should be placed at the normal depth.
Plant following a light rain, or irrigate to provide a moist soil. Sow
seeds thickly in the row. Press the soil firmly about the seeds to create
good seed to soil contact.
Thin the new seedlings to a reasonable stand, to avoid the plants from
competing with each other. Cultivate shallowly, but with care, to control
weed seedlings. Finally, provide a light mulch to help suppress weeds in
the future. With a fall garden, you'll still be bragging about harvesting,
when others are only recalling memories.
For more information refer to:
NebGuide 1343, Fall Vegetable Gardening, http://ianrpubs.unl.edu/horticulture/g1343.htm
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