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1. Basics of Feeding Horses- Feeding Management
By Kathy Anderson, UNL Extension Horse Specialist
Often, equine nutritional management is misunderstood. Successful nutritional management depends upon combining information on the nutrient requirements of different horses and their eating behaviors with the knowledge of how to best meet those requirements.
Proper nutritional management is extremely critical in the horse due to the unique arrangement and anatomy of its digestive tract. Often, it is the feeding method, not feed composition, which leads to digestive disorders in horses.
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2. Understanding the Equine Hoof
By Sara Ellicott, UNL Extension Educator
eXtension is an interactive learning environment delivering the best, most researched knowledge from the smartest land-grant university minds across America. eXtension connects knowledge consumers with knowledge providers - experts who know their subject matter inside out. To access eXtension, visit www.extension.org.
Currently, there are a series of videos on the horse portion of the eXtension website that go over many different things dealing with the equine hoof, and why it is important to understand the hoof and know how to care for them appropriately. These videos are part of the 2008 Equestrian Academy Sessions, made possible by the University of Nebraska and Purina Mills. In this video series, Nate Allen, of Allen Farrier Service-Juanita, NE and Central Community Technical College-Hastings NE, helps viewers understand how the equine hoof functions and gives suggestions for managing horses' hooves to maintain long term soundness.
Here is the list of video segments available:
- Introduction to Hoof Function and Terminology
- Anatomy of the Horse's Hoof
- Physiology of the Horse's Hoof
- Horse Hoof Trimming Principles
- Determining the Correct Horse Hoof Shape
- Trimming Unbalanced Horse Hooves
- Reasons to Shoe Your Horse
- Unbalanced Development as a Result of Shoeing
- Horse Hoof Bruising and Corrective Shoeing
- Corrective Shoeing for Horses and Conclusion
To view the video segments, visit Understanding the Equine Hoof
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3. Handling Heat Stress
By Sara Ellicott, UNL Extension Educator
With summer temperatures on the rise, handling livestock properly and managing heat stress becomes more important. The rising temperatures coupled with the high humidity and little wind have allowed for days with high heat indexes, which lead to risk for livestock. While the publications referenced below are mostly beef cattle related, similar conclusions should be considered with other species as well, in order to manage heat stress during the summer months.
For detailed information, click on the links below for UNL Extension publications, which provide detailed approaches to handling cattle during these peaks of heat in the summer.
NebGuide G1582 “How to Reduce Heat Stress in Dairy Cattle” and
NebGuide G1409 “Managing Feedlot Heat Stress”
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4. Hay Storage Considerations
By Justin Sexten. University of Illinois
Extension Specialist
As corn planting finishes up and weather permits many producers turn their focus to making hay. Several simple round bale storage practices can be utilized to prevent losing hay to weathering after harvest.
The first key to minimizing dry matter losses begins with the baler, if your baler is capable of variable bale sizes consider making the bales as large as equipment, baler and loader permit. As bale size increases the percentage lost due to spoilage decreases. For example a 4 foot bale spoiled 4 inches deep will loose 30% of the original dry matter; whereas a 6 foot bale spoiled the same depth will loose 20% of the original dry matter.
Several other simple and inexpensive ideas can prevent excessive dry matter losses due to storage. The least expensive practice is to properly orient bales in storage areas. The flat ends of the bales should be placed tightly together. The bale "rows" should be oriented north and south on a well drained location. Do not allow rows to touch, space at least 3 feet apart so water from one row doesn't run off onto another. If possible place bales on gravel or wooden pallets to minimize ground contact.
Many times hay is stored under trees at the edge of the field or in waterways, these practices encourage hay spoilage and dry matter losses. Storing hay in these dark, damp environments prevents the sun from drying the hay after a rain and encourages the bottom of the bale to remain wet. The only suitable dark location for hay storage is a barn but for those producers without sufficient barn storage space remembering a few hay storage keys will help minimize storage losses.
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5. Management of Blister Beetles in Alfalfa
By John Campbell, UNL Extension Entomologist
Blister beetles can be a grave risk to horses. Adult blister beetles (Epicauta spp.) tend to be gregarious, and several may be observed feeding on the same flowering plant such as alfalfa or sometimes soybeans, goldenrod or occasionally musk thistle. They feed primarily on leaves and flowers but do little damage to crops.
Adult blister beetles vary in size and color but can be recognized by elongated, narrow, cylindrical and soft bodies. When viewed from above, they have a constriction behind the head where it attaches to the narrowed anterior end of the thorax. In Nebraska, the three-striped, gray and black blister beetles are the most common species. The three-striped is long, slender, brown and yellowish-gray with yellowish stripes. The gray is a larger beetle that is 9/16 inch to 11/16 inch long. The gray coloring is due to a thick covering of hair. The black blister beetle is the largest of the three species. It is more robust and is 5/8 inch to 7/8 inch long.
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6. “Green” Pesticides, Certification/Licensing Requirements
By Nebraska Department of Agriculture
For many years, there has been a growing interest in pest control which uses newer chemistry and less toxic ingredients. Many states have even passed laws prohibiting the use of many of the older products in their schools. Our nation’s recent desire to move away from foreign oil has placed additional focus on “Green” technology, which has given a boost to the interest in “greener” pesticides. This is a good thing, both for the safety of people and the environment (assuming that the products work).
Some pest control companies now offer "organic", "natural", or "alternative" products to their customers who are interested in "going green."
The question arises as to whether a person needs to be certified and licensed by the NDA if they exclusively offer "green" products whose labels bear no EPA registration numbers.
Many of Nebraska’s pesticide applicator categories are only needed if a person wants to use Restricted-Use Pesticides (RUPs). However, for some categories, certification and licensing is required when using ANY pesticide (RUP, GUP, or federally exempted pesticides). In Nebraska, applicators involved in Structural Pest Control (Category 8), Ornamental and Turf Pest Control (Category 4), and Community-wide Mosquito Control (Category 09), MUST BE certified and licensed regardless of how “green” the pesticide they choose to use.
2009 Crop Production Clinic Presentations Available On-line
Commercial applicators with Category 01 (Ag Plant) or 12 (Aerial), crop consultants and growers, may be interested to know that audio/video broadcasts of many of the presentations given at the 2009 Crop Production Clinics are available on the web at http://cpc.unl.edu/ . Presentations from these general topic groups are available: weed science, entomology, plant pathology, pesticide safety, soil fertility, irrigation, and crop production. If you missed these meetings, or if you want to see a rerun, please take advantage of the wealth of information presented here!requirements for all pesticides in Category 8 apply, as well.
This might raise a follow-up question as to why some pesticides don’t have EPA registration numbers on their labels. EPA does not require federal registration of pesticides which meet the guidelines of FIFRA section 25(b). These products are usually referred to as “25b” products. To qualify for the 25b status, a product is limited to an approved list of active ingredients, as well as approved inert ingredients. Many of these ingredients are food grade. Additionally, the labeling must follow certain guidelines to qualify for the exemption from federal registration. Corn gluten meal herbicide and canola oil dormant spray are examples of approved 25b products. These products have been exempted from federal registration; however, they are still subject to state rules in most states.
NDA maintains a database of 25b products whose labels have been reviewed and approved for use in Nebraska. For additional information about FIFRA 25(b), please refer to Minimum Risk Pesticides- Frequently Asked Questions.
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7. Digger’s Hotline- It’s the Law!
By April Sheridan, UNL Extension Assistant
Digger’s Hotline of Nebraska is the statewide one-call notification center, set up by Nebraska state law. It is the link between people who want to excavate and the underground facility owner/operators.
In 1994, The Nebraska Legislature passed this law called the One-Call Notification System Act. It is listed in the Revised Statutes of Nebraska from Sections 76-2301 to 76-2330. It says that everyone who excavates (or otherwise disturbs the surface of the ground) must first call the state one-call notification center (Digger’s Hotline) at least two business days, but no more than 10 days, before they start work.
Everyone, everywhere in the state of Nebraska must contact Digger’s Hotline before excavating or disturbing the soil, even in your own backyard! By contacting Digger’s, you will be placing a request for the underground utilities in your excavation area to be located and marked. Digger’s Hotline is designed to protect you, underground facilities and the public. Professional Contractors, Homeowners and Personal Property Owners all fall under the Statutes.
Examples of NON Emergency Requests, but not limited to:
- Installation or repair of fence on personal property
- Repair or installation of underground sprinklers
- Planting a tree or any landscaping
- Installing cable for personal residence
All Emergency requests must be submitted via phone. Emergency requests will be received and processed 24 hours a day. An Emergency Locate request is defined as and will only be accepted and processed as the following: A clear and present danger to life, health, or property or which demands immediate action to prevent or repair a major service outage.
Examples of Emergency Locate Requests, but not limited to:
- Blowing or leaking gas lines
- Repairing downed fence that secures livestock
- Repair to water lines that serve large facilities. i.e.: nursing home, hospitals, and schools
- Repair of crucial cable/fiber serving business/industry
Upon placing a free locate request to Digger’s Hotline for a proposed excavation in Nebraska, Digger’s Hotline will notify you of the member utility companies that have underground facilities in the area of your proposed dig site. This service is free of charge for the caller. The Hotline will then notify the affected utilities of your proposed excavation. If there are utilities that are not members of Digger’s Hotline and are located within your proposed dig site, you will responsible for notifying the non-member utilities of your proposed excavation. The Hotline service is paid in full by its members, the underground facility operators.
The member facility operators affected by your proposed dig site will promptly be notified by Digger’s Hotline of your excavation plans. If they are within your proposed dig site, the operator will respond no later than two business days after receipt of the of the notice or at a time mutually agreed to by all parties involved. The member utilities will mark the approximate location of their underground utilities. These marks will be within 18 inches on either side, plus ½ the width of the underground facility. If the opinion of the operator the precise location of a facility cannot be determined and marked as required, the operator will provide all pertinent information and field locating assistance to the excavator at a mutually agreed to time. An operator who determines that it does not have any underground facilities located in the area of proposed excavation will notify the excavator of that determination prior to the work begin date.
If at anytime during your excavation project, the markings become unclear, the excavator should notify the center and the operator should remark the facilities. Operators are advised that all marks must be done in a manner that will for a minimum of five days on any non-permanent surface and a minimum of ten days on any permanent surface.
There are fines for failure to do what the One Call Notification Act requires. For violations related to gas or hazardous liquid pipelines, fines up to $10,000 per day (to a maximum of $500,000) may be assessed. For violation related to any other underground facility, and amount up to $500 per day (to a maximum of $5,000) may be addressed. There are also criminal penalties for any person who willfully and maliciously interferes with underground facilities or interrupts the transmission of a public utility as provided in Section 28-519.
Digger’s Hotline can receive regular locate requests via the following methods.
Phone: 811 Nationwide, 800-331-5666 Statewide, 344-3565 Metro Omaha
E-mail: www.ne-diggers.com
*Educational material taken from the “Nebraska Diggers Manual
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8. Drying Fruits and Vegetables
By Alice Henneman, UNL Extension Educator
Drying is one method for preserving vegetables. Dried vegetables are frequently used in soups and stews. Drying removes the moisture from the vegetables so that bacteria, yeasts and molds cannot grow and spoil them. It also slows down the action of enzymes, but does not inactivate them. Because drying removes moisture, the vegetable becomes smaller and lighter in weight. The optimum temperature for drying vegetables is 140° F. If higher temperatures are used the vegetables may "case harden", meaning to cook and harden on the outside while trapping moisture on the inside. These vegetables will eventually mold when the moisture equilibrates in the item. Thus, the drying process should never be hurried by raising the drying temperature.
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9. Fruitless Fruit Trees – What happened?
By Don Janssen, Extension Educator
The most common reason for failure to flower and produce fruit is that the tree is simply too young. Dwarf or semidwarf apple trees may start producing fruit in as few as three years or take twice that long or longer. If your trees have been growing long enough, the lack of fruit probably has some other cause.”
Frost damage to flower buds during the dormant season or after buds start to swell in the spring is a common cause of failure to fruit. Frequently an early warm-up will cause trees to break out of dormancy only to have their flowers zapped by a subsequent cold snap.
Browsing deer nibbling on fruit trees can damage or remove flower buds as high in the tree as they can reach. When deer populations are high and feeding pressure is heavy, repellents are ineffective and effective fencing is expensive.
Buds that survive to open into flowers must be pollinated to develop into fruits. Bad weather that prevents bees and other pollinators from working can translate into poor pollination and little to no fruit development. With only a few trees the problem with pollination is lack of another variety to serve as a pollen source.
Some fruit tree varieties are self-pollinating or self-fruitful. Some pears and tart cherries are self-pollinating. For many apple varieties if there isn't a pollen source, it doesn't matter whether the flowers survive -- pollination will not occur, and no fruit will develop.
Once trees start to produce fruit, they may produce large crops one year and little to no fruit the next. Thinning the crop during the heavy crop year may improve fruit set the following year. Heavy pruning after a light crop year may prevent a fruit overload the next year.
Other factors that affect fruit production include the early training and annual pruning of fruit trees to create a sturdy structure open to sunlight, proper fertilization, and pest and disease control.
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10. Fall Vegetable Gardening
By Dale Lindgren, UNL Extension Specialist Horticulture
Though often overlooked by the gardener, planting vegetables in July and August for fall production is an excellent practice. Late plantings of cool- and warm-season vegetables can extend the harvest long after spring-planted crops have ceased production. Most cool-season vegetables grow as well as or better than those planted in the spring as they mature during shorter, cooler days. Flavors of vegetables maturing in the cool, crisp days of autumn are often sweeter and milder than those grown during hot summer weather. This is especially true for cole crops such as broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower and kale. Plants such as lettuce and spinach which tend to bolt (develop flower stalks) in late spring, stay productive due to the shorter day lengths. For those who love to garden, extending the harvest as long as possible helps ward off the dreariness of cloudy autumn days.
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11. Bring in Flowers for Drying
By B. Rosie Lerner, Extension Consumer Horticulture Specialist
It may be too hot for outdoor chores, but you can still quench your thirst for gardening by bringing in your flowers for drying. Dried plant materials can last almost forever when properly harvested and preserved.
Some plants are naturally dry, while others must be processed to remove moisture. Those that are naturally dry, such as grasses, pine cones, cattails and dried seed pods, will need little processing before arranging. Harvest grass plumes after they open, but before they wither. Cattails should be cut when they first turn brown and flowers are still visible at the top. To prevent shattering of such materials, spray with hair spray or an aerosol hobby lacquer.
Most flowers and plants will need to have the moisture removed to preserve their ornamental character. You'll want to start with the best quality materials to ensure an attractive end product. Pick flowers before they completely open, since they will continue to open as they dry. You'll also find that colors often darken as they dry. Gather the materials after morning dew has dried, but before plants wilt in the heat of the day.
Several methods of drying can be used to preserve plant materials. Air drying is simple and works best with plants that have sturdy stems and flowers that are naturally semi-dry, such as baby's breath, money plant, statice and strawflowers. Remove the foliage from the stems and tie a bundle together with string or twist-ties. Hang them upside down in a cool, dark place with good air circulation for about three weeks.
Desiccant materials such as silica gel or a borax-sand mix are best used for those plants that wilt quickly, such as violets, roses, carnations and dahlias. Choose a container that is large enough to allow the plant materials to be dried without overlapping or crowding. Pour 1/2 inch of desiccant into the bottom of the container. Place the first layer of flowers on top. Flat-faced flowers such as daisies should be placed face-down. All other flowers should be placed face-up. Gently place the desiccant around and over the flowers, being careful to retain the flower's form. Continue layering flowers and material until the container is full. Then cover and place in an out-of-the-way location.
Place a test flower near the top so the progress can be checked periodically without disturbing the entire container. Drying is complete when the flowers' petals are crispy, but not yet brittle. Drying time will vary with the type and size of flowers.
Your microwave oven can be used to dry flowers quickly and actually results in a fresher, more colorful dried flower. Use a desiccant to support the flowers in a microwavable container. Leave the container uncovered to allow good air circulation. Place a cup of water in the oven while drying to prevent excessive drying. Flowers should be microwaved on the high power setting. Drying times will vary, depending on the flower type, quantity and individual oven. Small flowers, such as violets, daffodils and orchids, may need only one to two minutes, while larger flowers, such as peonies, mums and dahlias, may take three to four minutes. Microwave in one-minute increments until you gain experience.
Pressing is a great way to preserve flat-faced flowers, such as violets, daisies and single roses. Leaves and ferns also press easily. Place the flowers or leaves between several layers of newspapers, paper towels or pages of an old phone book. Weight them down with a large, heavy object. Check their condition in about three weeks. Pressed flowers can be glued to a paper background and placed in a picture frame for an elegant, lasting remembrance.
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12. Bearded Iris – An Acreage Standard
By Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator
Bearded irises are great perennials for the acreage garden. Hardy and dependable, they produce orchid-like blooms in a wide range of colors year after year.
A new addition to this long-time favorite is reblooming varieties -- iris that bloom as usual in late spring/early summer and then rebloom in late summer/early fall.
The best time to plant new iris plants or divide established ones is late summer or early fall. The most difficult part in planting iris is choosing varieties. The range in color in standard varieties is a little greater than that in the reblooming ones. With any iris you may find it hard to pick just a few.
The choice between purple, blue, wine-red, pink, yellow, orange and even brown flowers is just the beginning. Many varieties are bicolored which means the fall petals are a different color from the standard ones, or petals are one solid color bordered in another. Others have spots of a second color or even striped petals. The beards, the fuzzy structures that rest on each fall, may be the same color or a different color from the petals.
Iris plants tolerate a wide range of soils as long as they’re well-drained. Root rot can be a problem in poorly drained soils. Iris should be planted right at the soil surface, with the upper surface of the rhizome exposed. Full sun or light shade for part of the day provides for good growth.
Control perennial and annual weeds in the intended planting site and work the soil a week or so before planting. Incorporate a one half inch layer of compost to a depth of two inches.
Irises are often planted in groups of four to six rhizomes of the same variety spaced 12 to 15 inches apart for a more striking display during bloom. This is slightly less than the usually recommended spacing of 15 to 18 inches.
As irises spread, they become crowded and eventually need dividing. The first step is carefully to loosen the soil around the roots and lift plants from the soil. Use a sharp knife to remove any soft, insect-infested or unhealthy-looking plant parts and to divide the remaining healthy rhizomes into pieces. Each piece should have some healthy-looking roots and at least one fan of leaves. Cut the leaves back to 6 inches before replanting in a prepared spot.
The iris borer problem of bearded iris can be managed by removing foliage in the fall. The iris borer is a plump, pinkish caterpillar that tunnels in the rhizomes, feeding on plant tissue. A secondary rot usually follows, leaving rhizomes soft and mushy. The adults lay eggs on the foliage in late summer, so removing the foliage in late fall removes the eggs, too. If not removed, eggs hatch in the spring, and the young caterpillars bore into the foliage and then move into the rhizomes.
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13. Dividing Perennials
By Constance R. Lowndes, Project Coordinator, University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension
Soon the children will be heading back to school and autumn activities will begin. But taking a few minutes to evaluate your landscape plantings now will move you to the “head of the class”! It is easy to multiply your favorite perennials for your own yard or to share with friends (lessons your children are learning!). If done properly, dividing perennials is relatively simple for the gardener and painless for the plant. Cindy Haynes, Extension Horticulturist with Iowa State University, shares the following hints for dividing perennials.
Why Should I Divide Perennials?
While perennials can’t talk, they can communicate when division might be needed. Division often rejuvenates plants. When they start to grow more slowly or even decline, division is recommended. If a perennial is not blooming well, especially in the center of the plant, division can improve the size and number of blooms. When a perennial is overtaking its designated area or encroaching into other plants, division is a way to control or limit unwanted growth. Some perennials have problems with diseases like powdery mildew (white fungus that coats leaves). Division helps increase air circulation around the plant, thus limiting the incidence and spread of some diseases. And finally, sometimes we are greedy and want more of our favorite perennials. Division is a great way to get more of them in the landscape.
How Do I Divide a Perennial?
Division is the act of separating one plant into many. The actual procedure is really as simple as the definition. While there are many methods of division, a method that works for most plants is to start by digging up the entire plant (if possible). Examining the root system and overall health of the plant is easier to do when you can see it all. For some perennials, like bearded iris, this is extremely important. Look at the swollen roots for signs of borers or rot. Destroy any root sections that have evidence of insect or disease.
Digging up the entire plant also allows you to notice any spaces in the plant crown or clump which could be natural areas for separation. Sometimes perennials will separate easily into multiple pieces with little effort. Other times sharp knives, shovels, even an ax may be necessary to cut the plant's root system apart. If the tools are required, it is often best to cut the perennial into sections like you would a piece of pie. This works well with ornamental grasses that are starting to die out in the center. These wedge-shaped pieces contain more of the vigorous “outer” portions and less of the dead “inner” portions of the plant.
After carefully separating the perennial into many smaller plants or divisions, simply place one of the divisions back in the original planting hole. Be sure the division is planted at the same depth as the original plant. Perennials planted too deeply will not perform well. Some perennials like peonies do not bloom well when the buds (located where the roots and crown connect) are planted more than 2 inches below the surface of the soil. Good care and maintenance like regular watering and weeding will be needed to re-establish a good root system.
When Should I Divide Perennials?
Now is a great time to divide many of the spring blooming perennials. Division in late summer and early fall gives the perennial plenty of time to re-establish in the landscape before winter. Wait to divide the summer and fall blooming perennials in early spring as they begin to emerge from the ground. Generally there is only one rule on this subject – don’t divide a perennial when it is currently in bloom.
What Size Should I Make the Divisions?
The ultimate size of a division depends on three things; 1) the plant species, 2) the amount of time you have to care for the divisions, and 3) your level of patience. Some perennials like hosta, iris, and daylily will grow and re-establish quickly after division, regardless of size. Small divisions with only 2-3 buds, eyes, or fans are perfectly acceptable for these species. Other perennials like peony grow and bloom better when divided into larger sections.
The smaller the division, the more time and effort will be needed to re-establish the plant in the landscape, regardless of species. Small divisions have smaller root systems and need more frequent care. While small division will give you more plants, you increase the risk of failure or death of the divisions without proper and sometimes constant care.
How long are you willing to wait for blooms on your newly divided perennial? Since many perennials will need a year to fully re-establish after division, blooms are typically poor the year after dividing. Some plants may take 2-3 years to bloom after division. Small divisions will take longer than large divisions to re-establish and bloom again.
How Often Should I Divide?
The frequency of division depends greatly on the species. Most vigorously growing perennials can be divided regularly, if wanted or needed. Fast growing daylilies, hosta, bee balm and mums can be divided every 3 to 5 years. More slow growing perennials such as phlox and peonies can be divided every 5 to 7 years. Some perennials like False Indigo and Gas Plant prefer to be left alone in the garden and can live happily without division for decades.
So, knowing a bit about each of the perennials in your landscape can increase your success in division and save you a lot of effort in the future.
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14. Woody Plant Maintenance- Evergreen Trees and Shrubs
Evergreen trees and shrubs maintain their foliage all year long, providing some structure and color in our winter landscapes. They can be short, spreading groundcovers or tall, majestic trees. The foliage is often needle-like or scale-like, though there are a few broad-leaf evergreens which are usually treated more like deciduous shrubs. Evergreens are used in foundation and border plantings, as well as for windbreaks and screens.
Learn more . . .
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UPCOMING EVENTS
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15. NU State Museum's "Wildlife and Nature Photo Contest", Entries from July 6 to September 30
Amateur photographers who are Nebraska residents age 18 or older can submit striking photos of wildlife and natural settings taken anywhere in the wold. These images may show animal behavior, portraits of wildlife in natural habitat, plant life, natural landscapes, or people interacting with nature. Images of pets, domestic animals, or captive animals photographed in zoos or game farms will not qualify for entry.
All entries must be original photographs taken by the entrant. All entries will be displayed in Morrill Hall from November 2, 2009 through February 28, 2010. For an entry form and details visit museum's web site below.
Web site: http://www.museum.unl.edu
For more information contact:
Dana Ludvik, (402) 472-3779, dludvik2@unl.edu
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16. I2E Club Inventors, Investors & Entrepreneurs, August 11
Every 2nd Tuesday of the month the UNL Kimmel Education and Research Center hosts the I2E Club. In August the
Club is hosting the 2nd Annual Elevator Pitch Contest and is going to be better than ever. This year three judges are on board to provide professional feedback to participants so they can improve their pitches in an effort to make memorable impressions on their target audiences. Along with feedback, the top participants will also leave with small prizes.
The Sponsor of the night-- River Country Economic Development Corp
Schedule:
5:30PM Networking Social
6:00PM Elevator Pitch Contest
7:00PM small groups & “Ask & You Shall Receive”
Location: UNL Kimmel Education and Research Center 5985 G Road, Nebraska City, NE
Fee: $10 per evening or $45 for a year’s membership
Contact: Dr. Connie Reimers-Hild
Phone: (402) 873-3166
Email: creimers2@unl.edu
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17. From Recipe to Reality Seminar, August 15
The Food Processing Center is offering a one-day seminar for all individuals interested in exploring the idea of starting a food manufacturing business. Pre-registration is required and space is limited. Registration deadline: December 19.
Additional program dates for 2009 in Lincoln, NE - August 15, October 3.
Contact Jill Gifford at (402) 472-2819 or jgifford1@unl.edu for an information packet. For more information and to register for the program, visit the UNL Food Processing's Food Entrepreneur web site.
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18. Quilting "Tuesday Talks"
The UNL International Quilt Study Center & Museum offers a series of "Tuesday Talks", allowing visitors to bring a brown bag lunch and learn about topics in quilting. Pre-registration is not required. Parking is free and these programs are open to the public.
- August 18, Quilts of the Modern Age with curator Marin Hanson
- September 15, Fueled by Silk: Victorian Crazy Quilts
- October 13, Caring for Your Quilt with collections manager Janet Price
Time: 12:00- 1:00 p.m.
Location: International Quilt Study Center & Museum
1523 N. 33rd Stree, Lincoln, NE
Web Site: http://www.quiltstudy.org
Contact: (402) 472-6549
The Museum is open Tuesday-Saturday 10:00 a.m. - 4:30 p.m., and Sunday 1:00 - 4:30 p.m. Docent-guided thyour are available free with admision on Wednesday at 11:00 a.m. and Saturdays at 11:00 a.m. and 1:00 p.m.
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19. Log Cabin Two Ways Workshop, September 20 & 27
The UNL International Quilt Study Center & Museum offers a two-part workshop, September 20 & 27, on Log Cabin quilts. Registration is required.
- Sept. 20, "The Lively Log Cabin"
- Sept. 27, "The Perfect Pineapple Log Cabin"
Instructor: Barbara Caron
Members: One class- $25.00, both classes $45.00
Non-members: One class- $33.00, both classes $60.00
To register call (402) 472-6549
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20. Understanding and Appreciating Fine Wines, October 30
Join us for a wine tasting event and applied wine evaluation learning experience on October 30, at Lincoln's Downtown Holiday Inn. Watch for more details at the UNL Viticulture Program web site coming later this summer.
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21. "Trick or Treat": Fall Grape Growers Workshop, October 31
The Treat: Vineyard floor management and weed management will be the featured topics for the Fall Workshop to be held a the Downtown Lincoln Holiday Inn on Saturday, October 31, 2009.
Tricks of the trade will be presented by experts on weed management and vineyard floor management, such as
- How do you control hose pesky goblins (weeds) that steal water and nutrients?
- What are the pros and cons of clean cultivation versus cover crops for row middles?
Watch for more details at the UNL Viticulture Program web site coming later this summer.
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