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2. Burning Shelled Corn as a Heating Fuel
By Tom Dorn, UNL Extension Educator
A number of manufacturers now make stoves that burn shelled corn. Although similar to wood stoves, these new stoves have been specifically designed to burn a dry granular fuel, such as shelled corn. Corn burning stoves usually have a combustion air fan and a fuel stoker, both of which are not common in standard wood stove construction.
Why burn corn?
In Nebraska we have an abundant supply of dry shelled corn. The corn used as a fuel in stoves does not have to be top quality. There are however two requirements of corn fuel:
- The shelled corn must be dry, preferably 15% moisture content or less. Higher moisture corn will have a lower heat value per unit weight than "dry" corn. Moist corn may also cause flow problems through the fuel loading auger.
- The shelled corn must be free of fines. Dirty corn which has a lot of fines and cob pieces will cause problems with the fuel loading auger.
The equipment to construct a corn storage system is readily available. Corn can be handled manually with shovels and buckets or the entire system can be automated with hoppers and augers.
Two reasons corn is so attractive as a heat source are that dry shelled corn is so easily handled and in plentiful supply. Shelled corn also has a high heat energy per unit weight. 15% moisture corn has about 7000 BTU per pound. This is 91% of the energy content of wood on a pound for pound basis (15% moisture corn compared to 20% moisture wood).
Basics of Corn Stoves
Corn stoves are specifically designed to burn a granular fuel. Because this fuel is metered into the burning chamber, most stoves have a storage hopper to contain a supply of fuel. In some ways corn burning stoves are very similar to pellet burning stoves. In both cases, corn and pellets are very dense. Consequently, neither of these fuels will burn readily in an open pile in a fire chamber.
To get these fuels to burn, some manufacturers use a small combustion chamber into which the corn is fed and combustion air is pumped through. The corn can be either dribbled into this combustion chamber from above, or it can be stoked into the chamber from below by means of an auger. The feed rate of the feed auger can be adjusted to regulate the amount of corn burned, which in turn controls the amount of heat produced. The second requirement for burning to occur is oxygen. In order to support combustion, oxygen is blown into the combustion chamber by means of a small fan. Air is usually brought in from outside so heated room air is not used to support combustion. This combustion chamber is actually quite small and could easily fit into a child's lunch box.
As corn burns it produces a clinker. Because of the small size of the combustion chamber the clinker should be removed daily. With practice, the removal of the clinker can be done without having to shut down and then relight the stove. A specially designed poker is used to upend the clinker, then tongs are used to remove it.
Inside the stove, a heat exchanger is used to remove heat from the flue gases and heat the room air. A fan is used to move the room air through the stove where it is warmed. This fan may also help in moving the heat further away from the stove.
A different style of corn stove also exists which does not use augers to feed in the corn or fans to provide combustion air or move heated air to the room. By careful design, these stoves will burn corn at the bottom of a hopper and radiate heat to the surrounding room. Unlike the previous type where electricity is used to stoke the fire and move the heat to the room, these stoves are not affected by electrical power outages.
The type of flue pipe required to vent the exhaust gases from the stove will depend on the design of the stove or corn burning appliance. These flue pipes can range from those commonly used in wood stoves to through-the-wall vent pipes which actually preheat the combustion air by removing heat from the flue gases. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations regarding the type of flue pipe required. It is best to keep the flue pipe as short and straight as possible (keep the number of elbows to a minimum) to maximize the stove's performance.
Types of Stoves
A number of different manufactures are presently making corn burning stoves. They are available in a variety of sizes and styles and are sold as stoves (some can be modified as a fireplace insert), space heaters, hot air furnaces, boilers for use in hot water radiator systems.
The size of fuel hoppers also varies greatly. This hopper size can range from holding one day to ten days supply of fuel. One thing to consider with the freestanding stove or space heaters is the surface temperature of exposed metal parts. This is especially important if there are small children in the house.
Cost of Heating with Corn
Before you can accurately compare heating with corn to other heating fuels you have to look at a number of factors. Not only is price of the fuel important, but also the heating efficiency of the heating system and the energy content of a unit of each fuel.
The cost per Million BTU's of useable energy can be estimated using a mathematical formula which takes into account the cost per unit of fuel, the energy content per unit of fuel and seasonal heating efficiency.
Cost per Million BTU's of useable energy =
(Cost Per Unit Of Fuel x 1,000,000) ÷ (Energy Content Per Unit Of Fuel (BTU) x Seasonal Heating Efficiency)
Where: Cost per unit of fuel is in Dollars, Energy Content Per Unit of Fuel in BTU's, and Seasonal Heating Efficiency is in decimal form i.e. (70% = 0.7)
Example: Lets look at an example where you are using corn at $1.70 per bushel in a stove with a seasonal heating efficiency of 70%. What is the cost per million BTU's of useable energy?
Corn Cost = $1.70 per bushel
Energy content per bushel = 7000 BTU/lb x 56 lb/bu. = 392,000 BTU
Seasonal Heating Efficiency = 70% = .7
Dollars per Million BTU's Useable Energy =
(Cost per unit of fuel ($) x 1,000,000) ÷ (Energy Content Per Unit Of Fuel (BTU) x Seasonal Heating Efficiency)
=($1.70 x 1,000,000) ÷ (392,000 x .7)
= $6.19 per million BTU's
Therefore to supply one million BTU's of heat to the house costs $6.19 when this stove operates at 70% efficiency, burning corn at $1.70 per bushel. The average older home requires approximately 100 million BTU's of useable energy per year. When you do the calculations for your situation, keep in mind that the price charged per bushel of corn may vary from the market price when small quantities are purchased. Check the prices carefully before doing these calculations.
Fuel Type |
Energy Content per Unit |
Seasonal Heating Efficiency |
Useful energy content per Unit |
| Shelled Corn , (lb) |
7000 BTU / pound |
70% |
4900 BTU / pound |
| Shelled Corn, (Bushel) |
392,000 BTU / (56 lb) |
70% |
274,400 BTU / Bushel |
| Wood , (20% moisture) |
7700 BTU / pound |
50% |
3850 BTU / pound |
| Furnace Oil |
140,000 BTU / Gallon |
75% |
105,000 BTU / Gallon |
| Propane |
91,900 BTU/Gallon |
85% |
78,115 BTU / Gallon |
| Natural Gas |
100,000 BTU/ 100 cu ft |
85% |
85,000 BTU / 100 cubic feet |
| Electricity (resistance) |
3413 BTU / kWh |
100% |
3413 BTU / kWh |
| Air Source Heat Pump |
|
250% |
8533 BTU / kWh |
| Water Source Heat Pump |
|
400% |
13,652 BTU / kWh |
Limitations of Burning Corn for Heat
Possibly the first and most important limitation of corn as a fuel is the stove itself. If the stove uses augers to feed the corn into the combustion chamber and fans to maintain combustion and move heated air to the room then an electrical power interruption will shut the stove down. Very simply with this style of stove, no electrical power means no heat from your corn stove. Some stoves require a manual reset after a power interruption, as a safety feature.
Second, since most house layouts do not allow the free movement of air through the house, a centrally located stove will not heat the whole house. If this is your case, size the stove to heat the room where the stove is located. Oversizing the stove will result in the room housing the stove becoming unbearably hot.
Stove Buying Criteria
When purchasing a corn stove there are some questions which you should answer:
- What is the heat output of the stove? Do you know how much heat you require to maintain the heated space at the desired temperature?
- If you are trying to heat your whole house with a stove or space heater, does the house layout allow for the convective movement of heat through the whole house? Most newer houses are not built to allow convective air movement.
- What is the size of the fuel hopper? Will it require filling on a daily, weekly or biweekly schedule?
- What is the seasonal heating efficiency of the corn stove?
- Does the unit meet UL standards?
- Does the unit have hot exposed surfaces which could cause burns to skin?
- What type of exhaust venting is required? Does it require a chimney with a flue liner or can a combination flue/fresh air vent pipe be used?
- Are you prepared to clean out the clinker daily and remove ash from the heat exchanger on a weekly basis?
- Will the stove handle granular solid fuels other than shelled corn? This is important in the event that the economics of burning corn become unattractive or an alternative low cost pelleted fuel becomes available.
- Will this corn burning appliance be a primary heat source or act as a supplementary heat source? Stoves with small fuel hoppers will not keep a house warm for long periods of time, unattended.
- How will corn be stored for winter operation?
Adapted from: Ontario Ministry of Agriculture fact sheet, Burning Shelled Corn as a Heating Fuel.
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3. Is Burning Wood an Economically Feasible Heating Option?
By Tom Dorn, Extension Educator
Heating the home with a wood stove is one case where money does grow on trees but the question is: Will wood heat be the least expensive option when all the associated costs are counted?
Equipment costs
The first factor when considering wood as an alternative source of heat is the cost of the equipment needed. Most people choosing to heat with wood will have both a wood stove and a conventional heater for times when nobody is around to stoke the stove. This adds to the investment compared to homes not using wood for heat.
Wood stoves, furnaces, and fireplaces are high temperature heaters. The purchase and correct installation of a high quality stove and chimney flue are important to prevent fire hazards that could lead to loss of property or life. Installation in an existing home can be expensive. Holes may need to be cut through floors, walls, ceilings and roof to install the chimney pipe. National Fire Protection Association and local codes for spacing, fire blocking, system assembly and finishing should be followed closely for every part of a wood heating system.
Early warning fire alarms and a dry chemical fire extinguisher (at least 5 lb. ABC) should be considered necessities for homes equipped with a wood heating system.
Unless you intend to purchase your wood from a dealer, you will also need to harvest and prepare wood to burn. You will need personal protective equipment and access to chain saws, log splitting tools (manual or powered) and a pickup or trailer to haul the wood.
The use of high efficiency wood stoves or furnaces to heat a major portion of the home also can reduce heating costs. Efficient air tight wood stoves or furnaces capture half of the heat energy (BTU's) released by burning the wood (50% efficiency). The addition of catalytic converters will extract extra heat and reduce pollution by reacting with unburned gases in the flue. A major improvement in some installations is the ability to bring in outside air instead of using heated household air for combustion. Stoves that are not airtight can draw excess air out of the house and up the chimney, reducing the overall efficiency. Open fireplaces (those without doors), while romantic, can actually have negative efficiencies because of the large amount of household air drawn into the fireplace and up the chimney when the fireplace is being used. Don’t forget to close flue dampers when a stove or fireplace is not in use. Warm household air can be drawn up the flue by the "chimney effect", especially when the wind is blowing.
Harvesting costs
The cost of operation, maintenance and repairs should not be overlooked. Chain saws tend to be high maintenance machines. The stove itself, the chimney, and the associated equipment all have expected service lives and will eventually need replacement.
Variable costs include the value of the time and labor devoted to wood harvesting and heating. Travel can add considerably to the cost of gathering wood, especially with high gasoline prices. Examples of on-going expenses include: chain saw fuel, chain sharpening and replacement, chain saw oil and repairs, wood splitter fuel and repairs, chimney cleaning, and repairs to the stove and chimney system.
Wood heating can reduce home heating costs when “free” firewood is located close to home. An important trade-off with “free” firewood is the time and labor required to keep wood supplied to the stove. Some folks don’t count the labor. They enjoy the opportunity to be outdoors and consider the exercise a benefit. It has been said, “A wood fire warms you three times; when you cut the wood, when you split the wood, and when you burn the wood”.
What is a cord of wood?
Since firewood is sold by the cord, it is important to know how much wood is in a cord. One standard cord of wood measures 4 ft x 4 ft x 8 ft (total volume 128 cubic feet). One cord of wood contains an average of 80 cubic feet of solid wood. The remainder is air space between the chunks of wood in the stack. Wood is also sold by the pickup load. Depending on the capacity of the box, a pickup load of wood usually equals one-third to one-half cord of wood.
When air dried to 20% moisture content, all species of wood have an energy content of about 7700 BTU's per pound. Since the density of wood varies by species, a lightweight wood such as cottonwood has a lower BTU content per cord than a heavy weight wood such as oak or ash. See Table 1.
If wood is purchased instead of harvested by the homeowner, the economic feasibility is easier to calculate. Table 1 shows the weight of a standard cord at 20% moisture for various species of trees and the number of standard units of various fuels needed to supply the same amount of heat (BTU's) to the home as a cord of each of the wood species when the efficiency of the conventional heater and the efficiency of the wood stove are taken into account.
| Table 1. The quantity of various fuels equaling the useful energy content of one cord of wood when the efficiency of the heating device is considered |
Wood species
one cord 50% efficient stove - lb/cord at 20% moisture. |
Corn Stove
70% efficient
15% moisture
(lbs - bushels) |
Fuel oil 1
75% efficient (gallons) |
LP gas 1
85% efficient
(gallons) |
Nat Gas 1
85% efficient
(100 cu-ft) |
Resistance Electric heater
100% efficient
(kWh) |
Air Source 2 Heat Pump
250% efficient
(kWh) |
| Osage Orange - 4380 lb |
3441 - 61.4 |
160 |
216 |
198 |
4942 |
1977 |
| Oak - 3920 lb |
3080 - 55.0 |
144 |
193 |
177 |
4423 |
1769 |
| Honey Locust - 3540 lb |
2781 - 49.7 |
130 |
175 |
160 |
3994 |
1598 |
| Ash - 3440 lb |
2703 - 48.3 |
127 |
170 |
156 |
3882 |
1553 |
| Elm - 2900 lb |
2279 - 40.7 |
107 |
143 |
131 |
3272 |
1309 |
| Cedar - 2680 lb |
2106 - 37.6 |
98 |
132 |
122 |
3024 |
1210 |
| Pine - 2600 lb |
2043 - 36.5 |
95 |
128 |
119 |
2994 |
1198 |
| Cottonwood - 2280 lb |
1791 - 32.0 |
83 |
112 |
103 |
2573 |
1029 |
| 1. The efficiency estimates for fossil fuel furnaces are for conventional systems that don’t use a standing pilot light for ignition. Some newer systems using pulse technology and outside air for combustion can be as high as 95% efficient. |
| 2. Over the course of the heating season, air source heat pumps will transfer more energy from the outside air to the house than the kilowatts of electricity consumed by the heat pump. The higher the outside air temperature, the less electrical energy required to extract a BTU of heat from the air. The breakeven air temperature, (the temperature when a heat pump uses as much energy as resistance heaters for the same heat output), varies with make and model but is usually between 15oF and 20oF. Air source heat pumps use an electrical resistance heating element or conventionally fired furnace as a source of back up heat when air temperatures drop below the point where the heat pump is less efficient than resistance heaters in providing heat to the home. |
How to estimate a breakeven cost for firewood.
Example 1 - Propane vs. Ash. If one ignores the ownership costs by assuming both an LP furnace and a wood stove are already installed in the home and if LP gas is selling for $1.10 per gallon, what is the maximum you could pay for (or could spend gathering) a cord of Ash firewood?
From the table, a cord of 20% moisture Ash firewood (3440 lb) burned in a wood stove that is 50% efficient, delivers as much useful heat as 170 gallons of LP gas burned in a furnace that is 85% efficient. If fuel cost is the only factor, the maximum one could pay for Ash firewood delivered ready to use is $1.10 x 170 = $187 a cord. If a pickup load contains one-third of a cord (1147 lb), this is equivalent to $62 per pickup load.
Example 2 - Heat Pump vs. Oak. Likewise, if electricity is $0.08 per kWh, what is the maximum you could pay for (or could spend gathering) a cord of Oak firewood?
From the table, a cord of 20% moisture Oak firewood ( 3920 lb) burned in a 50% efficient stove provides the same useful heat as1769 kWh of electricity (average for the heating season) to power an air source heat pump. (See table footnote 2).
If electricity were $0.08 per kWh, the equivalent cost of a cord of Oak would be 1769 x $0.08 = $141. If a pickup load contains one-third of a cord (1306 lb), this is equivalent to $47 per pickup load.
However, if the wood stove is used only when the outside air temperature is lower than the breakeven temperature and the heat pump system is relying on the resistance heater to provide heat to the home, a cord of Oak is equivalent to 4423 kWh of electricity. At $0.08 per kWh, the equivalent price for a cord of Oak is $354. If a pickup load contains one-third of a cord (1306 lb), this is equivalent to $118 per pickup load.
Backup heat source
A final point of discussion is in order. Beyond the purely economical considerations, wood heat can be seen as a reliable backup in times of power outages. Modern heat pumps and forced air gas or fuel fired furnaces all require electricity to run the fan to distribute the heat. A wood stove will heat at least part of a home and can be seen as insurance to keep the family warm and safe when the power is out during a blizzard or other disaster.
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4. Seal Heating Duct Systems and Save Money This Winter
By Shirley Niemeyer, UNL Housing and Environment Specialist
Many heating and cooling duct systems are not properly sealed or insulated. Leaks at seams and joints mean the conditioned air is going someplace other than where you want it to go. Ducts that leak heated or cooled air into unconditioned spaces, such as crawlspaces or attics, can add hundreds of dollars a year to heating and cooling bills.
Insulating duct systems is usually cost-effective. Although minor duct repairs are easy to accomplish, ducts in unconditioned spaces should be sealed and insulated by qualified professionals using appropriate sealing materials.
Look for separated duct sections, leaks at seams, and obvious holes. Use mastic to repair these duct leaks. Some weatherization professionals conduct duct testing to determine the extent of leaks.
If you have water pipes and drains in unconditioned spaces, they could freeze and burst if the heat ducts are insulated. Electric heating tape wrap on the pipes can prevent this. For cooling ducts, use a well-sealed vapor barrier on the outside of the insulation to prevent moisture condensation and buildup.
For more information on other ways to save energy at home, visit the U.S. Department of Energy: Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy web site.
For more energy saving tips on windows visit the Partnerships for Home Energy Efficiency.
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5. Your Acreage View May be Costing You Energy and Dollars
By Shirley Niemeyer, UNL Housing and Environment Specialist
Your windows provide you with a view of your acreage, ventilation, shelter from the climate, and light. They may also be costing you energy loss, dollars and comfort.
Almost half of U.S. homes have single pane windows. Homeowners with single-pane windows may chose to replace them with new double-pane windows with high-performance glass, or to add storm windows. For heating-dominated climates, select windows with spectrally selective coatings to reduce heat gain and U-values of 0.35 or lower. Nebraska is classified by the Department of Energy as a northern or heating-dominated climate area.
Look for the EnergyStar® label. In order to meet the EnergyStar® voluntary designation for windows, the U-value for areas in the northern region must be 0.35 or lower. The U-value measures the rate of heat transfer and tells you how well the window insulates. The lower the U-value, the better the window insulates. The uniform National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC) label may be found on windows made by participating manufacturers. The label can be used to compare energy ratings including the U-value or thermal transmittance, solar heat gain coefficient and visible light transmittance. EnergyStar® windows must be NFRC rated.
Approximate characteristics of glass in windows:
- Single glass: U-value, 1.1; R-value, 0.90; solar transmittance, 84 percent; visible transmittance, 90 percent
- Single glass with storm window: U-value, 0.50; R-value, 1.5-2; solar transmittance, 70 percent; visible transmittance, 81 percent
- Insulated glass: U-value, 0.56-0.50; R-value, 1.6-2; solar transmittance, 70 percent; visible transmittance, 81 percent
- Low-e insulated glass: U-value, 0.40-0.29; R-value, 2.5-3.5; solar transmittance, 58 percent; visible transmittance, 76 percent
- Low-e insulated glass with Argon: U-value, 0.34-0.23; R-value, 2.9-4.4; solar transmittance, 58 percent; visible transmittance, 76 percent
- Insulated glass with suspended film: U-value, 0.23; R-value, 4.1-8.1; solar transmittance, 41 percent, visible transmittance, 71 percent
Sources: ASHRAE and U.S. Department of Energy
R-value is the resistance to heat moving through the material - higher values indicate better insulation properties. Solar transmittance or solar heat gain measures the amount of solar energy admitted and tells you how well the product blocks heat caused by sunlight. Visible transmittance indicates the amount of light the window glass allows through. Low-e refers to a low emittance, very thin film applied to the glass that keeps heat in in the winter and out in the summer. According to the Department of Energy, moderate solar gain low-e coatings (40 to 55) typically are selected for northern and mixed climates where winters are cold and summers moderately hot.
For more specific details on the ratings of styles of windows and brands, go to the National Federation Rating Council web site at http://cpd.nfrc.org/ and click on “General Public.”
Installing new windows means paying attention to correct installation requirements for the particular window style. Incorrect installation may lead to energy losses and water moving into the inner wall cavity resulting in damaged wood and siding below the window as the water moves downward. Be sure correct flashing procedures are used and any weep holes to allow moisture drainage are not plugged. Some newer windows are meant to allow any moisture that does get in to escape. If in doubt about the installation methods, contact the manufacturer.
If homeowners decide not to replace windows, there are other ways to improve the windows' performance. In cold weather, close curtains and shades at night, and open them during the day. Weatherstrip, caulk between the frame and the siding, and repair cracked glass or damaged glazing. Installing storm windows can reduce heat loss by 25 to 50 percent.
For more energy saving tips on windows, visit:
U.S. Department of Energy: Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy
Energy Savers: Tips on Saving Energy & Money at Home
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6. Energy is Not All You Save When Check Your Home for Energy Leaks
By Shirley Niemeyer, UNL Housing and Environment Specialist
Start with setting the thermostat as low as is comfortable in the winter. Turning back your thermostat 10% to 15% for 8 hours can save you up to 10% a year on heating and cooling costs according to the U.S. Department of Energy. A programmable thermostat automatically adjusts the temperature according to the needs of the householders and can be set for a schedule. The thermostats can store and repeat multiple daily settings cutting the heat back at night, and up again before you rise in the morning, and back down after you leave. Some allow settings for each day of the week.
It's also important to weatherize the home – caulk and weatherstrip any doors and windows that leak air. Replace cracked window panes and repair putty. Make sure equipment is properly maintained, service regularly and cleaned. Furnace filters should be replaced or cleaned regularly. If you plan to fire up a fireplace for the first time, check for potential blocked or damaged chimneys first.
Insulation may be inadequate. Check the insulation in the attic, ceilings, exterior and basement walls, floors, and crawl spaces to see if it meets the levels recommended for your area of Nebraska. Suggested R-values include: ceilings below ventilated attics, R-49; cathedral ceilings, R-38 to R-60; walls, R18 to R-28; floors over unheated crawlspaces, R-25; crawlspaces if dry, ventilation blocked and floor not insulated, R-19; slab edge, R-8; basement interior walls, R-11 to R-19; and basement exterior walls, R-10 to R-15.
Sill plate areas are often overlooked for insulation and caulking. Be sure attic ventilation areas are clear of insulation and adequate for the size of the attic area.
An important and often overlooked area is your heating and cooling ventilation distribution system. Check for leaks at duct seams and joints. Use mastic to seal seams and joints so that conditioned air goes where it is suppose to go. Insulate ducts in unheated attics and crawlspaces.
Adding quality high performance storm windows or new windows can save energy, prevent some condensation and improve comfort. Look for the National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC) and the Energy Star labels to compare U-values and solar heat gain coefficient values. A U-value of 0.35 or lower is recommended for Nebraska.
Increasing lighting efficiency is a quick way to decrease energy costs. Replacing 25% of your lights in frequently used areas with compact fluorescent bulbs can save about 50% of the energy bill for lighting.
As with all jobs to improve your house system, be sure there is a functioning carbon monoxide alarm and adequate air intake for combustion appliances including water heaters and ranges. An air-to-air heat recovery unit or heat ventilation recovery unit will help to provide sufficient managed air intake for combustion. Safety is important when working with heating, cooling and air conditioning systems, and combustion equipment.
For more information, consult:
UNL Extension EC 02-458-S, Home*A*Syst Heating & Cooling Systems: Saving Energy and Keeping Safe
And the companion worksheet, EC 02-459-S.
Both are
available through your local extension office.
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7. Care for Evergreens in Winter
By John Fech, UNL Extension Educator
Broadleaf evergreens add so much to the landscape. They enrich with color, texture and winter appeal. Keep them well protected this winter with several applications of an anti-transpirant. Around the first of every winter month, make an application. Apply the anti-transpirant on a day with daytime temps above freezing.
Unlike deciduous shrubs such as lilacs or dogwood, hollies, boxwood, rhododendrons, azaleas, and Oregon hollygrape are evergreen and give off small amounts of water during the winter. This process can leave the plants dry in the spring. The moisture loss is worsened by strong winter winds that accelerate the drying action.
Applications of products such as Wilt-Pruf, Forever Green, Dwax, and Folicote help to retain moisture in the leaves. They also help the leaves retain their green color, one of the reasons evergreens are used in the landscape. Apply the product according to label directions; with the key factor being to spray when temperatures are 35-40 F or above. Best results are achieved when applications are made 4-6 weeks apart. Because these products are glue-like, be sure to rinse the sprayer and spray nozzle with clear water after each application. After cleaning, get it ready for winter storage. Check all the hoses for cracks and leaks. Rinse it thoroughly with soap and water. Then, hang it upside down to drain.
Once the sprayer is put away properly, put away the sprays as well. Fungicides, insecticides, and herbicides should be stored safely and appropriately as well. Inspect all the packaging for leaks or tears and seal them up if possible. Keep them in their original containers. Then, stow them in a locked cabinet that is labeled "Caution - Pesticides Inside". The cabinet should be located in a cool, dry area. It is important that liquids are not subjected to freezing temperatures.
Most pesticides can last several years if stored properly.
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8. Protect Roses for the Winter
By John Fech, UNL Extension Educator
If you love your roses, make sure they are well protected this winter.
The key to good protection is to not to get into a hurry to do it. Wait
until they are dormant. How do you know? Well, most to all of the leaves
should have fallen off the canes, and the canes themselves turn a bit off
color. Temperatures should be in the 20's in a consistent pattern for
several days. Doing too much, too early will cause them to be injured in
winter, in spite of good intentions.
Once they're dormant, cut them back. Tea roses should be cut back to
about 30 inches or so, while miniatures only slightly. Floribundas and
multifloras should be thinned and cut back severely. Cover the rose canes
with wood chips, corn cobs, sawdust, pine needles, or pine cones. You will
need to use at least a bushel basket of materials for each rose bush. Keep
applying the covering material periodically, as Midwestern winds tend to
blow it away.
Keep the material in place as long as possible with a rose collar. You
can buy a pre-made collar at the hardware store or garden center, or make
one yourself. Look around your store room and find a large box. The box
that your stereo speakers came in would work just fine. Open the bottom,
slide it over the rose bush and then fill it up the wood chips. You can
seal the top or not, depending how it looks to you.
Climbing roses need to be taken down off the trellises and thinned. Strive
to keep about 4 to 5 of the strongest canes. Older, broken and diseased
canes should be removed at ground level. Dig a trench near the base of the
canes and bend the remaining canes into the trench. Cover the canes with
the covering materials for tea roses. Mound up the material to the same
height as for tea roses. In spring, carefully dig them up and reattach
them to the trellises.
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9. Tractor Safety Is Everyone's Business
By Sharry Nielsen, UNL Extension Educator
Whether you live on 2 acres, 10 acres, or 200 acres, you are likely to find more and more ways to use your small farm tractor. The small size makes them a great machine for hauling feed to small herds, for winter chores, and, of course, for moving snow. It would be hard to get some things done without them.
But there is a down side to the small tractors we see as essentials in rural areas. Many of them are old enough that they are not equipped with either seat belts or ROPS (roll-over protective structures). Many small tractors are just old, purchased on one farm sale and then another, and are not in the best working order. Whether we admit it or not, small tractors look harmless, like even a child could operate them.
It is estimated that 350 to 450 fatalities each year are the result of tractor mishandling. Children and youth are among the fatalities and those sustaining severe injuries from tractor incidents. Improper use of machinery was the leading cause of farm deaths in 29 states in 2003.
You can keep your family from being one of those statistics. First, take some preventive measures. ROPS and seat belts, when worn, are the two most important safety devices to protect operators from death in tractor overturns. Be sure the tractor you use has both.
Then, remember to:
- Keep your tractor in tiptop shape mechanically.
- Maintain a “no-riders” policy. That means absolutely NO extra riders on the tractor.
- Operate your tractor in a safe manner, including learning the terrain to avoid holes, embankments, etc., reducing speed when conditions warrant, and staying off slopes that are too steep for safety.
- Be sure everyone is clear before moving – every time.
- Hitch only to the drawbar and hitch point recommended for your size tractor.
- When the tractor is stopped, set brakes and use the park lock if available. Remove the keys.
- Train anyone who is to use the tractor how to operate it safely, how to recognize and avoid hazards and to properly maintain the tractor.
For more information on safe operation and training for tractors, contact your local University of Nebraska Extension office.
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