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1. Apply Pesticides Correctly for Best Results
By Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator
Property owners sometimes complain about the lack of effectiveness of various pesticides. Many times it isn’t the pesticide that’s the problem – it’s the application. There can be a number of reasons for this lack of efficacy. Some of the common ones follow.
Lack of good penetration of foliage. This often is a problem when spraying for bagworms on junipers. The spray must penetrate the foliage and reach the bagworms toward the inside of the plant. High pressure commercial sprayers are able to get the spray to the insects but homeowner models are much more problematic. With pump-up sprayers, you may have to push the wand through the outer layer of foliage to reach insects toward the inside of the plant.
Not spraying where the insect is. Many insects and mites feed on the underside of leaves. If the plants are sprayed over the top, little to no pesticide reaches the pests. This problem is often seen with spider mites on broadleaf plants and cabbage worms on cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower.
Maturity of pest. Insects become much more difficult to control when they become adults. For example, Sevin does a good job of controlling young, early instar grasshoppers but is much less effective on adults.
Level of disease pressure. Most of our fungicides are better used as preventatives than as curatives. If a disease gets firmly established, it may be very difficult to bring it back under control. For example, chlorothalonil is effective in controlling early blight and Septoria leaf spot on tomato if used as a preventative. However, chlorothalonil will not control these diseases on badly infested plants.
Choosing the wrong product. Property owners often use a product because they have it on hand. However, products differ markedly in how well they control specific pests. Make sure the pest you wish to control is on the label. Unfortunately, even labeled products may vary in effectiveness. Check Extension recommendations for the recommended products.
High pH spray water. Certain pesticides are not stable in high or low pH water. Following are some examples.
- Captan has a half-life of 3 hours at a pH of 7.0 but only 10 minutes at a pH of 8.0
- Carbaryl (Sevin) has a half-life of 24 days at pH 7.0, but only 1 day at pH 9
- Diazinon is most stable in pH 7 water, with a half life of 10 weeks; at pH 5, it is 2 weeks
- Malathion is stable at pH 5.0-7.0 but rapidly hydrolyzes in more acidic or alkaline conditions
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2. Vegetable Gardens- The Big Three
By Connie Lowndes, UNL Extension Assistant
It seems that there were a lot of “recession gardens” planted this year. Perhaps it was to save a little cash on the perishable food portion of the grocery bill, or maybe an effort to put fresh, safe, local food on the table. Whatever the reason, now that the garden is planted-how to take care of it? Incorporating the “Big Three” in your garden care will go a long way to maximize your harvest.
APPLY MULCH
Any organic mulch will do: straw, newspaper (3 sheets thick), bark mulch, grass clippings (be sure to wait for several cuttings if lawn is treated with chemicals before collecting, and then dry in the sun before applying). Mulch will break down over time and add nutrients to the soil. It helps keep the soil cool for the roots and holds moisture. Mulch helps prevent water from splashing up onto the leaves, potentially carrying disease. It also reduces weeds (and the labor that goes along with pulling!) and the competition for nutrients and water.
WATER/FERTILIZER
Vegetables require about one inch of water per week, preferably in one application to encourage deep roots. If possible, apply with drip irrigation to keep the foliage dry, thus reducing incidence of foliar diseases. If using an overhead sprinkler, water during the mornings so leaves dry off before nightfall. It’s tempting to water a “little bit every day”, but that is a bad habit that should be avoided. Deep watering will offer consistent moisture to the plants and save water (and your time, also a valuable commodity).
Fertilizers are often applied with water, and their effectiveness and longevity is related to water application. Incorporating compost into the soil prior to planting will increase the organic matter in soil, resulting in improved water holding capacity. Decomposing compost also provides a steady supply of nutrients, which may reduce your fertilizer needs. Another organic fertilizer available on the market is fish emulsion. Synthetic fertilizers are available for vegetables, just look for a balanced fertilizer (example 20-20-20), read and follow application instructions.
PEST PATROL
Pests can wreak havoc with you garden, but diligent observation and quick action will reduce their effects. Healthy plants that receive adequate water and nourishment are less prone to pests than those under stress. Plants with plenty of air circulation (because of proper spacing and/or staking) will show fewer fungal diseases. If insects are feeding on plants, take steps immediately to control, while the problem is small. But don’t reach for the chemicals first. Decide if you can control by other means: pick the critters off, get the fruit off the ground, prune the plants a little, pull out the crowded ones to maximize yield. Identifying the pests will give ideas about proper control. If choosing a chemical solution, always read and follow package directions carefully (especially when close to harvest).
At the end of the season, pull up and dispose of plants. Pathogens may survive over the winter, hiding in the plant material. Clearing out plants, weeds, and rotting fruits will go a long way toward a healthy garden next year. Plan to rotate crops yearly to discourage build up of insects and disease.
An animal pest may invade your garden. Rabbits are the most common. They are cute, until they eat your produce! Contrary to garden legends--a fence really is the best way to keep them out. Leave the hair on the dog and the moth balls in the closets!
The middle of summer brings an abundance of produce from the garden. Most crops benefit from regular harvesting to encourage continuous growth, and prevents that unexpected “zucchini ball bat” that is unusable. “One of the advantages a home gardener has over people who purchase produce is that the crop can be picked at the moment of ripeness,” says Pete Ferretti, professor of vegetable crops at Penn State University. He also points out that vegetables are highest in vitamins and minerals such as potassium, magnesium and iron when they are fully ripe. “For the best flavor and storage capability, pick your crops first thing in the morning.” For ideas on how to use the fresh fruits of your labor, see nutritionknowhow.org and lancaster.unl.edu/food, both have great ideas for feeding families, food safety tips and nutritional information.
Remember the “Big Three” when planting and maintaining a vegetable garden: you will save time, effort and water and your table will have the tastiest produce you can imagine. Enjoy!
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3. Summer Mowing Practices for Bluegrass
By Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator
Sound mowing practices are necessary to obtain a good quality lawn. This is especially true during the summer months. Improper mowing practices during periods of drought and high temperatures may seriously damage turfgrass.
Kentucky bluegrass lawns should be mowed at a height of 3 to 3 1/2 inches during the summer months. Bluegrass lawns should be mowed at a height of 2 to 2 1/2 inches in the spring and fall. The additional leaf area during summer shades and cools the crowns of the turfgrass plants. During hot weather, the temperature near the crown area of short-mowed turfgrass may be 20EF or more above the air temperature. Extremely high temperatures at their crowns can kill turfgrass plants. The higher mowing height also provides more food-producing foliage and promotes deeper root growth.
When mowing the lawn, never remove more than 1/3 of the total leaf area at any one time. Removing more than 1/3 of the leaf area severely injures the turfgrass plants and reduces their ability to withstand additional environmental stresses.
If possible, mow in the cool of the morning or evening. Mowing at midday places additional stress on the turf and may also cause heat stress related problems for the individual mowing the lawn.
Another important key to proper mowing during the summer months is a sharp blade. Dull blades tear and bruise the leaf tips. The damaged tissue dries out giving the turf surface a whitish appearance. The damaged leaf tissue also suffers greater water loss. The mower blade doesn't have to be razor sharp. A properly sharpened blade has no nicks and is smooth on the bottom with a 30 to 45 degree bevel towards the top of the blade.
Change the mowing direction or pattern each time the lawn is mowed. Different mowing patterns reduce soil compaction and turf wear from the mower wheels. Wear damage is most likely in thin or shady areas. Also, mowing the lawn repeatedly in the same direction pushes the grass over rather than cutting it cleanly.
Dormant lawns (those that have turned brown) should not be mowed. Pedestrian and mower traffic could damage the turf. Grass that is still growing should be properly mowed following recommended practices.
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4. Tree Root Care
By Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator
Trees are important fixtures in the urban and rural landscape. We value above-ground parts of trees for their spring flowers, cooling shade in summer, and vibrant leaf colors. But healthy root systems below ground are vital for tree vigor and longevity. Roots are responsible for water and mineral nutrient uptake, energy storage, and anchorage. If for any reason tree roots are damaged, tree health will be jeopardized.
Because roots work quietly out of sight underground, most people have a poor understanding of this important subterranean network. In general, roots grow where the resources of life (water, oxygen, and mineral nutrients) are available. They usually will not grow where there is no oxygen or where the soil is compacted and hard to penetrate. This need for oxygen explains why a majority of tree roots are located in the top 12 to 18 inches of soil.
As trees mature in the landscape they attain a rather delicate balance with their surrounding environment. In fact, trees grow best in an environment of minimal change. Unfortunately, our urban, suburban, and even rural landscapes are places where drastic changes like driveway and sidewalk installation, grade changes, road widening, and utility trenching occur frequently. Such construction activities near trees can cause substantial root injury which may be fatal to established trees.
Of all the soil disturbances previously mentioned, grade changes and their impact on tree roots may be the least understood. Since roots are near the surface and depend on oxygen from the atmosphere, raising or lowering the soil level around an established tree can have serious impact. Scraping the soil away from a tree removes or injures important absorbing and transport roots, eliminates nutrient-rich topsoil, and exposes other roots to desiccating (drying) conditions. And if heavy equipment is used during the grading process, additional tree injury occurs because of soil compaction. Instead of lowering the grade, valuable trees might be protected by raising the grade elsewhere. If soil removal becomes absolutely necessary, grade changes should be limited to areas outside the branch spread of trees.
Soil fills which raise the grade around trees are equally harmful. Soil additions reduce the oxygen supply to roots, compact the soil, and often raise the water table. Soil additions six inches or less will probably not harm "fill-tolerant" trees (Colorado spruce, catalpa, silver maple, green ash Eastern cottonwood, swamp white oak, river birch, red maple, black willow) especially if the fill material is good topsoil, high in organic matter and loamy in texture. But, irreparable damage will result if as little as two inches of clay soils are used as fill, particularly around "fill-intolerant" trees (white fir, red oak, white pine, linden, white oak, scotch pine, sugar maple, serviceberry). If fills deeper than six inches will occur, it is still best to limit those grade changes to areas outside the branch spread of the tree.
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5. Keep Your Patio Planters Nice ‘N Green
By John Fech, UNL Extension Educator
Patio Planters-We love ‘em! However in July, they tend to run out of gas. Fill up their tanks with a well balanced readily soluble fertilizer. When shopping for a product, look for one with a fertilizer analysis in a ratio of 1-1-1. Typical products would be 21-19-18 or 20-20-20.
Before you fertilize the plants, water them. Return an hour later to fertilize. Applying fertilizer to a moist soil will prevent leaf burn, which commonly results from fertilizing plants growing in dry soils. Use the amount of product and frequency indicated in the directions.
Avoid excessive fertilization. The cook’s temptation to add “just a pinch more” is not helpful with plants. The usual result of ever fertilization is lots of leaf growth, not more flowers. If you want to tend to your plants more frequently, that’s fine. Just reduce the amount of fertilizer that you add. Actually this is a good technique, in that the more attention is given to the plants, the more likely to observe insects or diseases that may be damaging.
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6. Plan Now for Winter
By Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator
The flowering annuals you planted in late May haven’t hit their peak yet, but it’s not too early to think about taking cuttings for indoor flowers this winter.
Taking cuttings of popular flowering annuals such as coleus, fibrous-rooted begonias and impatiens now, rather than waiting until frost is threatening, is a kind of insurance. If something happens to the first cuttings, you’ll still have time to try again. If you wait too long, one chance may be all you get. It’s still a good idea to take more cuttings than you think you’ll need-- all cuttings won’t necessarily root and grow into new plants.
Select healthy, vigorous plants as your source of cuttings. Begonias, impatiens and coleus are propagated from stem tip cuttings. These are the growing ends of shoots. For propagation, select shoots with no flowers or flower buds. Use a sharp knife to remove the cuttings just below a leaf. Cuttings can be as long as 4 inches or as short as 1 inch.
Remove the leaves from the lower ends of the stems, leaving at least two at the tip. Then dip the cut end of each stem in rooting hormone and insert it in moist sand, vermiculite, perlite or some other sterile rooting medium. To retain moisture in the medium, cover the containers with clear plastic, then place them in a warm spot where they will not be subject to direct sunlight. In direct sun, heat will build up under the plastic and cook the young plants.
Roots should form in two to three weeks. When the plants start to put out new leaves, it’s time to transplant them carefully into new containers of potting soil.
Though you can raise plants from cuttings on a sunny windowsill, coleus, especially, will tend to produce long, straggly stems with widely spaced leaves under low light conditions. For best results, grow these plants under fluorescent lights. Sixteen hours a day under a combination of cool white and warm white or daylight bulbs plus occasional pinching of stem tips will encourage plants to branch rather than straggle and promote continuous flowering in begonias and impatiens.
Outdoor plants brought indoors may bring outdoor problems with them. Insects may come inside with them. They may go unnoticed for a while, until a population explosion occurs in the absence of the natural controls that keep their numbers in check outdoors. Check cuttings and transplants closely for insects and other problems and treat the pests or discard the plants as needed to prevent a major infestation.
Next spring, these plants can be the source of cuttings for new plants for your garden. Follow the same procedure used to start them. Or simply prune them back and set them outside on warm days to adjust gradually to outdoor conditions. Then, when the danger of frost is past, plant them back in the garden for another summer.
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7. Select Outdoor Yard Lights for Security and Energy Savings
By Shawn Shouse, ISU Extension Agricultural Engineer
Many rural residences and farmsteads use yard lights to provide night security and to illuminate driveways and buildings after dark. Selecting the right light will produce the results you want while saving energy.
How much light?
Light intensity is measured in foot candles. One lumen of light energy falling on one square foot creates one foot candle. For general yard security and movement, a light intensity of one half to two foot candles is recommended. This light intensity can be created by 100 to 175 watts of lamp size mounted 25 feet above ground and serving no more than 8,000 square feet.
Higher light intensity may be desired in areas of high activity or near building entrances.
What type of light fixture?
Unshielded lamps send light in all directions. Even standard downward-facing fixtures can lose one third of their light to the sides. A full parabolic reflector fixture will direct the most light to the ground in your target area and allow desired light intensity with a smaller lamp.
What type of lamp?
Lamp efficiency is measured in lumens of light per watt of electric consumption and varies by lamp type. Some lamps are slow to start or to reach full intensity.
Standard incandescent and halogen lamps produce only 15 to 20 lumens per watt, but come on almost instantly. These lamps are fairly short-lived, but do not suffer from frequent on-off cycles. They are best where use time is short and the lamp is easy to access to change bulbs.
Compact fluorescent lamps create 45 to 60 lumens per watt, but take a minute or two to warm up to full output. Unlike standard fluorescent tubes, most compact fluorescents will start reliably in colder temperatures.
High intensity discharge (HID) lamps such as mercury vapor, metal halide and high pressure sodium lamps have high output efficiency of 30 to 100 lumens per watt and a long life. They require time to start and are best used where they are left on for extended periods. Metal halide lamps are nearly twice as efficient as mercury vapor, and high pressure sodium lamps are nearly three times as efficient.
For general yard lighting that will stay on for extended hours, high pressure sodium is often the lamp of choice, followed closely by metal halide. A typical 175-watt mercury vapor yard light running dusk to dawn will cost about 75 dollars per year to operate. Replacing this mercury vapor fixture with a 100-watt high pressure sodium fixture will provide the same light with lower operating cost and pay back the cost of the fixture replacement in two to four years.
What controls are needed?
Many yard light fixtures come pre-wired with a photocontroller that will turn the lamp on at dusk and off at dawn. Extra energy can be saved by using a controller that can additionally turn the lamp off for the latter portion of the overnight hours. Called “half night” or “selectable time” photo-controllers, these devices save energy and reduce unwanted light pollution.
For local area lighting at building entrances, walkways or work zones such as fuel tanks, consider motion sensor controls with halogen lamps.
Good yard lighting increases safety, provides security and enhances the appearance of your residence. Choosing the right light for your needs can improve effectiveness and save you money.
Information for this article was gathered from these good resources:
Ag Energy: Outdoor Lighting, by Scott Sanford, University of Wisconsin,
Energy-Efficient Agricultural Lighting, by Scott Sanford, University of Wisconsin,
Living On Acreages: What You Need to Know, MWPS-50, Midwest Plan Service, order from the ISU Extension Online Store
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8. Beginning Farmer Video Segments
By Sara Ellicott, UNL Extension Educator
If you are an acreage or small farm owner and you are looking for some resources and ideas for an enterprise that you could start on your land, take a look at the following video clips. Cornell University Cooperative Extension and the New York Beginning Farmer Project put together a collection of video segments for those needing resources for starting a small farm. There are some excellent points made in the videos and they could serve as a resource to current or potential acreage owners or small farmers in Nebraska...or at least serve as food for thought.
There are a several different video segments, along with a variety of different types of farms highlighted. The video segments are as follows: Meet the Farmers, Lessons from Experience, Getting $tarted, Grants, Setting Goals, Evaluating Land and Facilities, Choosing an Enterprise, Taking Care of the Land, Profitability, Regulations, Taxes and Insurance, and Love of Farming.
To view the video segments click here: http://www.nybeginningfarmers.org/
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9. Postemergence Weed Control in Alfalfa
By Bruce Anderson, UNL Extension Forage Specialist
Are weeds showing up in your new alfalfa? If they get thick, your alfalfa will suffer.
Alfalfa seedlings compete poorly with weeds. Control decisions can be difficult, so check your fields now.
When weeds threaten seedling alfalfa, especially broadleaf weeds, a common method to control them is mowing. If you mow, be sure to adjust mowing height so several leaves remain on your alfalfa plants after clipping so your alfalfa seedlings regrow rapidly. Also, do not smother small seedlings with clippings. Mow weeds before they get so tall that they produce a large quantity of clippings.
If you would rather spray broadleaf weeds than mow them, use either Buctril, Butyrac, Raptor, or Pursuit. Buctril controls most small broadleaf weeds, but alfalfa injury can occur when temperatures exceed 80 degrees. Since those temperatures are normal right now, it might be better to use Raptor or Pursuit. These herbicides control most small broadleaf weeds, but weeds should be less than three inches tall or results will be inconsistent. One nice thing about Raptor and Pursuit is their soil activity that will continue to control weeds through the season. Still, if weeds are much taller than three inches, mowing or haying may be as good or better over all.
Mowing is not very effective with grassy weeds, so use Poast or Select to kill grass weeds. Make sure you spray before grasses get 4 inches tall or control will be spotty.
Weeds slow the growth of new alfalfa by shading and competing for moisture. But you can prevent these problems by acting quickly. Check your fields soon and control weeds as needed.
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10. Controlling Pond Plant Growth with Bottom Barriers
by Tadd M. Barrow, Water Resource Specialist
Rooted aquatic plants are a natural part of the lake ecosystem and comprise a critical component of a healthy lake. They stabilize shorelines, oxygenate water, provide cover and spawning areas for fish, and provide habitat for aquatic invertebrates that are critical for juvenile fish growth. Uncontrolled plant growth, however, quickly can overtake swimming beaches, impede boating access around docks, limit angler success, and may result in an aesthetically unwelcome situation. When excessive vegetation growth affects the recreational and economic potential of a lake, it may be desirable to directly control rooted aquatic vegetation. Typically this is accomplished through the application of herbicides. Bottom barriers, however, provide an alternative method that avoids the environmental, health, social and economic concerns that can be associated with chemical treatment.
Learn more . . .
http://www.ianrpubs.unl.edu/sendIt/g1529.pdf
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11. Bait Stations for Controlling Rats and Mice
By Stephen Vantassel, UNL Extension Wildlife Damage Project Coordinator
Rats and mice can be a problem in urban, suburban and rural areas. They infest old buildings and crowded, unsanitary areas that exist in an urban environment. However, they can also be a problem even where newer homes and sanitary conditions exist. Since these rodents eat practically anything humans eat, they get plenty of food from home gardens, fruit or nut trees and even parts of some ornamental shrubs and flowers. Rats and mice have long been a problem on farms where food is plentiful and convenient nesting sites are both numerous and hard to eliminate.
Learn more . . .
http://www.ianrpubs.unl.edu/sendIt/g1646.pdf
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12. New Companion Animal Podcast Series Now on iTunes
UNL Animal Science is producing a new companion animal podcast series that is now available through itunes. Copy and paste the link below to your web browser. It will open iTunes to the new series. for you to download and view.
New podcasts will be added to the series the first and third Wednesday of each month and will focus on career opportunities with companion animals and how youth and adults can get involved with companion animals. We will look at different people who work and volunteer with companion animals in the state of Nebraska. The series will also highlight programs available here at the University of Nebraska - Lincoln and though 4-H.
iTunes Companion Animals
Dr. Lisa Karr-Lilienthal
Companion Animal Specialist
C204e Animal Science
Lincoln, NE 68583-0908
Phone: 402-472-6458
Fax: 402-472-6362
E-mail: lkarr-lilienthal2@unl.edu
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UPCOMING EVENTS
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13. Alfalfa Field Day, July 9
Improve your productivity and bottom line by attending the Alfalfa Field Day, July 9, at the Vaugh Svoboda farm 1 mile west of Ord on Sargent Road. Featured speakers include Dr. Bruce Anderson, University of Nebraska-Lincoln, Jim Girardin, Arrow Seed and Steve Niemeyer, University o Nebraska- Lincoln Extension. The program is sponsored by University of Nebraska- Lincoln Extension, Nebraska Cattlemen Burwell Affiliate and Arrow Seed. Send in your reservation by July 6th for the meal count.
Agenda:
9:00 a.m.—Doors Open
10:00 a.m.—Mowing Demo’s by local equipment dealers
11:00 a.m.—Educational Topics
12:00 p.m.—Lunch
Catered by Country Neighbor—sponsored by Arrow Seed
1:00 p.m.—Baling Demo’s & Packaging by local equipment dealers
For more information,:
Steve Niemeyer (308) 346-4200
Harry Walahoski (308) 346-4972
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14. Multi-State Grape Growers Field Day, July 13
A great program has been planned for the 6th Annual Multi-state Field Day hosted by the University of Nebraska Viticulture Program, in cooperation with the Nebraska Winery and Grape Growers Association (NWGGA) and the viticulture programs of the other cooperating states (KS, MO, SD, IA). There will be numerous vendors there that can help add to the program by providing attendees with examples of equipment and supplies that will be helpful for growers in all of the midwest.
Agenda:
(subject to change- watch the web site http://agronomy.unl.edu/viticulture for updates)
8:30AM – Registration, refreshments, network with colleagues
9:15AM – Welcome and introduction to the Kimmel Research and Education Center - Connie Reimers-Hild, KERC Director.
Agenda for the day and further welcome, Paul Read. University of Nebraska Viticulture Program;
9:30AM – Sprayer calibration, pesticide application techniques and insights - Paul Domoto, Iowa State University Fruit Specialist;
10:30 – Refreshment Break;
11AM – Panel Discussion on Bird Management. Panel will include vendor representatives and local growers - Moderator, Vaughn Hammond, University of Nebraska Extension Educator
12:15PM – Lunch
1:30PM – “State of the States” - an up-date by representatives of each of the participating states (2009 Crop Outlook and related information);
2:15PM – Adjourn to the University of Nebraska Viticulture Program Research Vineyard. Discussion of Canopy Management, Trellis systems and the 11-year old Cultivar Evaluation trial (see the “winners and “losers”, make your own
observations!) UNVP staff, Andy Allen, Extension Viticulturist
for the University of Missouri, Rhoda Burrows, Extension Horticulture Specialist, South Dakota State University, Paul Domoto, Professor of Horticulture, Iowa State University and local growers;
4:00PM – Adjourn (visits to local wineries)
Cost: $20.00 per person
Location: Kimmel Education and Research Center, Nebraska City, NE
Date: July 13
Registration Form
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15. Turfgrass Field Day, July 16
The Turfgrass Field Day will be held on July 16th from 8-12 at the John Seaton Anderson Turfgrass Research Facility near Mead. The program, while primarily targeted to golf course personnel, the event is open to all interested turfgrass managers.
Agenda:
8:00-8:30 Registration, coffee and rolls
8:30-8:45 NGCSA Organic Matter Project Review – Roch Gaussoin
8:45-9:45 Disease Diagnosis Extravaganza! - Amy Ziems UNL Plant pathologist will intentionally infect grasses with various pathogens to give participants an excellent opportunity to hone their diagnostics skills!
9:45-10:30 Buffalograss Fairway Management Study and Cultivar Update – Bob Shearman and students will present work on buffalograss mowed at fairway heights of cut and discuss the new and innovative cultivars soon to be released by UNL
10:30-11:15 Deficit Irrigation and Grass Biofuel Projects – Roch Gaussoin and students will talk about the initial stages of a comprehensive species and cultivar evaluation under deficit irrigation conditions. Roch will then show the Department of Energy funded biofuels project with Miscanthus.
11:30 Lunch – Gourmet Hot Dogs!
An application for GCSAA Education points has been submitted
Cost is $30 (checks should be made out to the University of Nebraska)and includes lunch and refreshments and any distributed materials. To register contact Brenda Gibson at 402-472-1547 or bgibson2@unl.edu (preferred). Fees will be collected at the Field Day. Please register by July 10. While on-site registrations will be accepted, lunch will not be included. Those who register and do not attend field day will be invoiced after the event.
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16. Great Plains Summer Field Day, July 24
The University of Nebraska’s East Campus is the host site for the Nebraska Arborists Association/
Nebraska Nursery & Landscape Association’s Field Day. This year’s event will be held on Friday, July 24
at UNL’s Arboretum and Student Union. Come for the food, fellowship and variety of activities!
Registration and a continental breakfast will be from 7:00-8:00 a.m. in UNL East Campus Maxwell Arboretum. Concurrent programs through the morning and afternoon will include vendor product demonstrations, Emerald Ash Borer detection techniques, Maxwell Arboretum tour, bare root planting trials, safety demonstration for climbers, and much more. For a complete agenda view the program brochure and registration form.
6 NAA & ISA Certification Credits
will be offered.
To register, complete the registration form & mail to Nebraska Arborists Association or fax to
(402) 476-6547
For more information call (402) 476- 3865 or e-mail naa@assocoffice.net
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17. From Recipe to Reality Seminar, August 15
The Food Processing Center is offering a one-day seminar for all individuals interested in exploring the idea of starting a food manufacturing business. Pre-registration is required and space is limited. Registration deadline: December 19.
Additional program dates for 2009 in Lincoln, NE - August 15, October 3.
Contact Jill Gifford at (402) 472-2819 or jgifford1@unl.edu for an information packet. For more information and to register for the program, visit the UNL Food Processing's Food Entrepreneur web site.
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18. Understanding and Appreciating Fine Wines, October 30
Join us for a wine tasting event and applied wine evaluation learning experience on October 30, at Lincoln's Downtown Holiday Inn. Watch for more details at the UNL Viticulture Program web site coming later this summer.
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19. "Trick or Treat": Fall Grape Growers Workshop, October 31
The Treat: Vineyard floor management and weed management will be the featured topics for the Fall Workshop to be held a the Downtown Lincoln Holiday Inn on Saturday, October 31, 2009.
Tricks of the trade will be presened by experts on weed management and vineyard floor management, such as
- How do you controlt hose pesky goblins (weeds) that steal water and nutrients?
- What are the pros and cons of clean cultivation versus cover crops for row middles?
Watch for more details at the UNL Viticulture Program web site coming later this summer.
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