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1. Old Wells In Disrepair Present
Risks
By Sharon Skipton, UNL Extension Educator
While out walking, Paul came across an old well; the
windmill had been removed and the well casing had been
cut and left open to the environment. It was a perfect
path for contaminants to enter groundwater. He wondered
what should be done. He had seen at least three other
wells similar to this one while hunting last winter.
At one time, the term "abandoned well" was
used to refer to wells like those described above; wells
not being used and in a state of disrepair. Today, the
term "illegal well" is used instead, which
is actually the legal term for such wells. Illegal wells
like those Paul came across represent one of the greatest
threats to groundwater in Nebraska.
Groundwater normally is provided with some protection
by a natural filter of soil, sand and gravel. Illegal
wells are holes in that filter that can allow contaminants
to flow directly into our groundwater supply. After
contaminants enter the groundwater supply they can move
with the natural groundwater flow and may show up in
public or private wells used to provide drinking water.
To reduce or eliminate these risks, Nebraska regulations
require that all illegal wells be decommissioned. The
decommissioning process includes removal of well equipment,
disinfection, filling and sealing, capping, and reporting.
Water well decommissioning must be carried out or supervised
by an individual with a valid Nebraska Water Well Standards
and Contractor's license. The only exception is that
an individual may decommission a driven sandpoint well
if it is on land owned by him or her and used by him
or her for farming, ranching, or agricultural purposes
or is at his or her place of residence. The Nebraska
Health and Human Services System maintains a list of
individuals with a valid license.
The price for decommissioning a well will depend on
several factors including accessibility, construction
technique and materials, depth, and condition. Financial
resources to help defray the cost of well decommissioning
are available from several Natural Resources Districts
(NRDs). Contact the NRD serving your area for information
on well decommissioning cost share money.
For more information on well decommissioning see:
Decommissioning
Water Wells: An Owner's Guide
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2. Dishwasher Film On Glassware
By Sharon Skipton, UNL Extension Educator
If you use an ion exchange water softener and automatic
dishwasher, you may find that glassware shows evidence
of soft-water etching. The first visual stage of etching
is identified by an iridescence to glassware. Over time,
tiny scratches or patches of cloudiness begin to spread.
Eventually, glassware will appear to have a cloudy, or
film buildup. The glassware can neither be cleaned or
restored. Etching is permanent and irreversible.
Etching is a complex problem involving many variables.
It is difficult to predict which glassware will etch.
Water quality and temperature, the amount of detergent
and detergent formulation (% phosphorous), the type of
glassware, and washing conditions can all contribute to
this problem. Depending on the water and type of glass,
it may not always be possible to prevent etching.
To try to prevent or slow down the process, follow these
measures.
- Use a low-phosphate detergent.
- Use a minimum amount of detergent - about 1 tablespoon
per detergent cup. Add up to 1 more teaspoon when
washing loads with heavy, greasy soil.
- Do not use water temperature over 140 degrees F.
as measured at the faucet nearest the dishwasher.
High water temperatures speed etching.
- Do not use the HI-Temp washing option.
- Use good loading practices to assure maximum water
circulation and through rinsing of all items.
- Do not add water softening products to the dishwasher.
They can speed up the etching process.
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3. Drinking Water Treatment
By Sharon Skipton, UNL Extension Educator
The best option for assuring good water quality is protecting
the water source from contamination in the first place.
Once a supply is contaminated, in addition to treating
the water as necessary, it is important to correct the
situation causing the contamination. Contamination removal
can be costly and take considerable time. Information
on source water protection can be obtained from the Farm*A*Syst
program, http://fas.unl.edu/, a private wellhead self-assessment
tool available through University of Nebraska Cooperative
Extension.
Manufacturers and dealers of home water treatment equipment
offer many products from which to select. Consumers should
educate themselves and select the water treatment system
that will be most effective for their particular situation.
NebGuide
#G1488- Drinking Water Treatment: What You Need To Know
When Selecting Water Treatment Equipment will help
the consumer sort through water quality treatment issues
for the household.
When considering treatment it is important to realize
that there is no one piece of treatment equipment that
manages all contaminants. All treatment methods have limitations.
The treatment system that is best for any particular household
depends on the contaminant(s) present, concentration(s),
the size of the household, the age and health of its occupants,
and maintenance and operation requirements of the system.
There also may be situations in which a combination of
treatment methods is most effective.
Consumers concerned about their water quality must sort
through an assortment of information to determine what
contaminants are present, which contaminants are of real
concern, and the appropriate response and treatment that
will be most effective for their particular situation.
NebGuide
#EC703- Drinking Water Treatment: An Overview provides
an overview of household water problems, causes, and potential
health effects. The problem then can be matched to appropriate
treatment method(s) for further investigation.
Further information on specific alternatives to be considered
should then be obtained from the appropriate NebGuides
including:
Drinking
Water Treatment: Sediment Filtration
Drinking
Water Treatment: Activated Carbon Filtration
Drinking
Water Treatment: Water Softening (Ion Exchange)
Drinking
Water Treatment: Reverse Osmosis
Drinking
Water Treatment: Distillation
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4. Drip Irrigation
By Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator
Drip irrigation is the most efficient watering method
around, proving that low flow is the way to go. Hardly
any water is wasted through wind, evaporation, run-off
or overspray.
Did you know that it can take 15 minutes to deliver
just one litre of water to the soil with drip irrigation,
compared to five seconds when delivering one litre by
hand?
By slowly dripping water into the soil at the base of
plants, water is released at a rate that's easy to absorb,
only where it's needed. After all, why water the weeds?
Drip irrigation also reduces the risk of erosion, soil
compaction and insect and fungal problems in plants.
It's great for all garden areas .
To learn more about drip irrigation on your acreage
checkout these sites.
Drip
Irrigation for Home Gardens
Drip
Irrigation for Windbreaks
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5. Match Acreage
Plan To Available Water
By Paul Hay, UNL Extension Educator
As you develop your acreage, planning ahead can match
water resources and your family interests to the successful
acreage that you truly enjoy. Take your time and think
hard about what it is you and your family enjoy. Be
truly objective in matching your plan to water resources,
land, location, and time. Three acres of irrigated garden
or turfgrass is not realistic if the well can only put
out five gallons a minute (equalling 12 days of continuous
well operation per acre inch), or even 50 gals per minute
(1.2 days). Select key parts of the lawn, landscape,
and garden to water and develop the rest of your acreage
on a rainfed basis.
One acreage owner told me that after ten years they
were tired of mowing their four acre lawn. They had
developed all the acreage into turfgrass and fertilized
it because they thought that is what they were supposed
to do. There are many alternatives to turfgrass, such
as wildlife areas, leased land for haying or farming,
tree plantation, dryland production of crops or garden
produce, etc.
I have worked with several acreage owners who have developed
or are developing wildlife areas. These can include
a mowed walking path so you can enjoy the diversity
of nature that can exist on even a small track of land.
Trees, shrubs, native grasses, bird nest boxes, water
sources, and feeding stations can be developed over
a period of time to add diversity and interest to a
rainfed natural acreage.
Missouri
Department of Conservation: Managing Wetland Areas
Missouri
Department of Conservation: Wildlife Management Practices
South
Dakota Department of Game, Fish and Parks: Attracting
Wildlife
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6. Water Math
By Tom Dorn, UNL Extension Educator
I get calls periodically from people who need help
calculating an answer that involves simple math but requires
access to conversion constants which may not be readily
available to them. In keeping with the basic theme for
this issue of Acreage Insights (water), lets look at a
couple of example questions dealing with water volume
calculations.
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7. What's Up Stream? Water Goes
With The Flow
By Steve Tonn, UNL Extension Educator
Everyone lives in a watershed. You and everyone in your
watershed are part of the watershed community. The animals,
birds, and fish are too. You influence what happens in
your watershed, good or bad, by how you treat the natural
resources - the soil, water, air, plants and animals.
The results of what we do in our homes and on our land
can extend hundreds of miles downstream. As we go about
the business of our lives, each of us impacts the watershed
day by day, and drop by drop.
Pick out any location in any stream or creek and all the
land that contributes water up to that point is called
it's drainage basin or watershed. The watershed of a small
stream- one you can cross wearing only rubber boots- might
be only a couple acres in size. On the other hand, if
you need fishing waders to get across, the stream is probably
draining a square mile or more of land. If scuba gear
is required, you know the stream has a large drainage
area. Knowing where your water comes from is important,
especially if any problems occur upstream.
When water falls as rain or snow, it quickly runs together
into small streams. Eventually these small streams flow
into each other and form a river. Rivers, in turn, meet
to form larger rivers. From an airplane you can easily
see how this stream network is organized. It's kind of
like a tree lying on its side with many branches attached
to a main trunk.
Hydrologists (scientists who study the movement of water)
have devised a system for classifying the position of
streams in a watershed. The uppermost channels with no
tributaries are designated first-order streams. A second-order
stream is formed when two first-order streams meet. Third
- order streams are created when two second-order streams
join, and so on. A network is formed by all the streams
in the watershed, and people can easily see how they connect.
Like nesting dolls, small watersheds are part of larger
watersheds, which in turn are part of even larger watersheds.
To learn more about your watershed and watersheds in general,
check out these web sites:
Surf Your Watershed-
From the United States Environmental Protection Agency
Know Your
Watershed- From the Conservation Technology Information
Center
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8. Drought Tolerant Plants
By Kim Todd, UNL Landscape Horticulture Specialist
Although the recent rains in parts of Nebraska might have
some of us rolling up the drip hose, our state climatologists
are not predicting a quick end to the drought that has
plagued most of the state for the past five years. But
even if that were the case, choosing plants that are drought
tolerant makes good landscape sense in a state not known
for its tropical rainforest appearance. The most dedicated
gardener gets tired of having to run home at noon, not
to let the dog out, but to give a water-hog plant still
another drink-and owners of acreages and other large properties
understand the impracticality of being tied to this sort
of landscape management, not to mention the worry about
the well running dry.
So what do we look for in drought tolerant plants? The
choices will vary from east to west and north to south,
and within the different microclimates of any property.
But in general, drought tolerant plants are those that
will survive with little or no supplemental water once
they are established. Drought tolerant plants differ from
those that demand low water. Those truly xeric or desert-like
plants may struggle when used in locations with higher
levels of humidity or soil moisture, or poor drainage.
Rabbitbrush, Chrysothamnus nauseosus, is an excellent
plant for western Nebraska, with its low rainfall and
low humidity. In eastern Nebraska, it succumbs to "normal"
conditions.
In the long run, plants that are tolerant of a wider range
of growing conditions, including drought, may be useful
to more homeowners than plants that thrive only on extremely
dry sites. Many of our most drought tolerant plants are
native to Nebraska or the Northern Great Plains, or have
been selected or bred from natives. These are plants that
have adapted to the extremes of climate and drought cycles.
A quick look at the physical characteristics of many drought
tolerant plants points to an extensive root system that
can seek out soil moisture at great distances and depths,
water-conserving leaf structures, and what might be considered
a 'conservative' growth rate. If you've tried to move
even a small bur oak, you've encountered sturdy, deep
roots. The same is true of our native prairie grasses
and perennials like blue false indigo.
Narrow, needlelike foliage conserves moisture, as does
succulent foliage like that of the sedums. Silver foliage
is reflective, not absorptive, and helps cool plants.
Felted or hairy surfaces are protective and capture water
droplets-a detriment where overhead watering practices,
high humidity and shade don't allow the foliage to dry
out quickly. The silver, pettable foliage of lambsear
has melted into a sorry puddle in many locations, due
to just that combination of environmental characteristics,
while it looks great in sunny hot spots. The cuticle of
waxy leaf surfaces defend against water loss through excessive
transpiration, and protect against sunscald. But variegated
foliage, found on many popular landscape plants, can cause
plants to sunburn, especially in dry, windy conditions.
The answer to the question "Should I tear out all
my existing plants and replace them with the most drought-tolerant
ones I can find?" is a resounding "NO!!!"
Establishing a landscape takes years of effort, bushels
of money and pounds of elbow grease. But new plants purchased
to finish a plan already in progress, or in anticipation
of the imminent death of existing plants, can and should
be selected for their ability to withstand drought-it's
easier on the environment, and easier on the owner. In
spite of taking all the care in the world to choose and
place drought tolerant plants properly, specific microclimatic
conditions might still cause plants from the same source,
with the same genetic makeup, to perform poorly in one
location and well in another. Slight variations in soil
composition, exposure to reflected heat, extended high
temperatures and drying winds can mean the difference
between the success of one drought tolerant plant and
the death of another only a few feet apart.
Remember that "little or no supplemental water"
does not apply for an indefinite, extended period of time.
As moisture levels drop, even well established trees and
shrubs with extensive root systems begin to suffer if
no water is available. So let the lawn go, but save the
trees especially those that provide other modifications
of your living environment, like shade or wind protection.
During periods of drought, infrequent deep watering applied
at the root zone is essential. Many homeowners wonder
why a newly planted tree or shrub that they have faithfully
watered dies anyway. The soil ball of that new plant is
often very different from the existing soil in the new
location, and if water is not applied directly to the
ball, the surrounding soil may be saturated while the
plant's rootball is dust-dry. Mulch will help conserve
soil moisture and moderate the temperature. Over-fertilization
will result in growth that may not be able to be supported
by the plant, so save fertilizer for better times. If
the soil is low in organic matter, add finished compost
or organic matter to the entire planting bed to help improve
the soil's moisture-holding capacity. Plants under drought
stress are also more susceptible to attacks by pests and
diseases. And remember-landscapes are living things, changeable
and fickle, and plants have finite life spans, with death
sometimes hastened in spite of our best efforts. If a
plant dies that was chosen for its drought tolerance,
and planted and cared for properly, an opportunity for
something else of equally tough constitution has just
been created.
As the drought continues, many of the stalwart old standby
plants, planted during a time when center pivot irrigation
didn't exist and residential systems consisted of hose-connected
sprinklers more useful for entertaining small, hot children,
are suddenly looking good again. The plants of our grandparents'
farms and homesteads, of old cemeteries and churchyards,
join the native prairie and woodland species in laughing
at drought-or at least smiling. There is no such thing
as a perfect plant, but most people would prefer a plant
that looks down-but-not-out during tough drought periods,
to the beautiful memory of an elegant stranger that looked
great until the going got rough.
Any recommendation for specific drought tolerant plants
should be carefully checked against actual performance
in your area and planting location. One of the best ways
to discover which plants actually do best is to simply
observe how they behave in your area, under similar management
and water conditions. If a plant performs poorly (or not
at all) under typical conditions, don't expect it to thrive
during drought. Many websites contain information about
drought tolerant plants, although most lists also include
plants that do not perform well in Nebraska. Botanical
gardens and arboreta in the Midwest, Great Plains, and
High Plains are better sources for specific plants than
locations on the coasts.
That said, the trees and shrubs in the following list
have proven to be tolerant of the drought conditions of
the last few years. For a list of drought-tolerant perennials
and Additional information about drought and drought-tolerant
plants can be found in :
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9. Saltcedar Control
By Dr. Stevan Knezevic, UNL Integrated Weed Management
Specialist
Saltcedar, Tamarix
ramosissima, also known as tamarisk, is a new
invasive weed introduced from Eurasia and found
in Nebraska's wetland habitats in all soil types.
It is a perennial deciduous or evergreen shrub,
or small tree from the tamarisk family (Tamaricaceae)
that reproduces both by seeds and perennial structures
such as taproot and stem. The root system is extensive
with primary taproot easily growing at least 15
ft deep. In search for moisture the taproot can
grow downwards as deep as 150 feet. Once the water
table is reached, secondary root branching becomes
profuse.
The plants can grow as individual trees or in sparse
groups. Their woody stem is erect, up to 20 ft tall,
and bark-brown or reddish-brown with highly branched
saplinks. Leaves are small, and scale-like (as in
many cedar trees) with many divisions on slender
highly branched green stems . In Nebraska, saltcedar
can flower from June to August, with small pink
flowers positioned on the top of the main woody
stem and branches (saplinks) in the finger-like
clusters. The flowers produce small and numerous,
tufted seeds that can be carried long distances
by wind and water. The seeds, however, have a short
period of viability, and must come in contact with
suitable moisture within a few weeks of dispersal.
Saltcedar is sold as an ornamental plant species,
but has escaped and became naturalized along streams,
canals and reservoirs in much of the western US.
In addition, in early 1900 saltcedar was purposely
planted along stream banks for soil erosion control.
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Saltcedar bush,
Image from The Nature Conservancy, at http://tncweeds.ucdavis.edu/esadocs/tamaramo.html
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Saltcedar flowers,
Image from The Nature Conservancy, at http://tncweeds.ucdavis.edu/esadocs/tamaramo.html
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Saltcedar has detrimental effects on the ecology of the
natural habitats through several means.
- The high evapo-transpiration rate of saltcedar can
lower the water table in streams and canals.
- Salt excreted from the leaves to the soil surface
beneath the plant inhibits germination and growth
of competing species. Thus the name "saltcedar"
is derived from the salty residue that collects on
the small scale-like leaves that resembles cedar foliage.
- In addition, the sticky salty substance exuded by
the leaves can also damage the plumage of birds.
- With loss of habitat most wildlife species move
to more diverse native plant communities.
As a result, many wildlife species are negatively effected
by habitat changes and the displacement of native plant
species due to encroachment of saltcedar. Due to its detrimental
nature to the wildlife habitat and land in general, it
is a concern to many privately and government managed
lands.
The guidelines for control include:
- Treat young or regrown plants under 6 ft tall since
they are easier to spray, and controlled than taller
trees.
- Treat areas previously root plowed, mowed or areas
where saltcedar appears to be newly invading.
- Treat areas with tree densities fewer than 150 plants
per acre.
- Spray foliage to wet (no dripping) especially terminal
ends, and allow two full growing seasons before follow-up
management.
- Time herbicide application towards the later part
of the season, but not too late. September and August
treatments are much better than May, June or October.
- Broadcast treatments can be done using airplane,
helicopter or high-clearance sprayers with a water
volume of a least 15 gallons per acre for better penetration
into the dense canopy. Arial application can be effective
using a global positioning spray system matched with
the survey maps, allowing the pilot to locate saltcedar
sites and exclude sensitive areas such as cottonwood
groves and other vegetation. For broadcast treatments,
Habitat (imazapyr) is recommended at the rate of 3
pints per acre.
- Individual trees can be also controlled with Habitat
at 1% volume/volume (v/v). Habitat is absorbed through
foliage and roots and is translocated throughout the
plants. Complete kill of plants may not occur within
a month or two. In addition, a mix of Roundup (0.5%
v/v) and Habitat (0.5% v/v) is also very effective.
Roundup is added to the mix to reduce the cost of
the treatment since Roundup (or any generic glyphosate)
can be as much as 4-5 times cheaper that Habitat alone.
- Do not treat irrigation ditches and water for domestic
use. Do not use near desirable trees and near homesteads.
Clean equipment with water following spraying.
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