1. Water Facts
Information from “The Water Spout”, Nebraska Department of Health and Human Services Regulation and Licensure, Vol. XX, May 2007.
Water is unique in that it is the only natural substance that is found in all three states - liquid, solid (ice), and gas (steam) - at the temperatures normally found on Earth. Earth's water is constantly interacting, changing, and moving.
Water freezes at 32 degrees Fahrenheit (F) and boils at 212 degrees F (at sea level, but 186.4 degrees at 14,000 feet). In fact, water's freezing and boiling points are the baseline with which temperature is measured: 0 degrees on the Celsius scale is water's freezing point, and 100 degrees is water's boiling point. Water is unusual in that the solid form, ice, is less dense than the liquid form, which is why ice floats.
Water has a high specific heat index. This means that water can absorb a lot of heat before it begins to get hot. This is why water is valuable to industries and in your car's radiator as a coolant. The high specific heat index of water also helps regulate the rate at which air changes temperature, which is why the temperature change between seasons is gradual rather than sudden, especially near the oceans.
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2. Water Conservation in the Home- Where to Start?
By Sharon Skipton, UNL Extension Educator and Shirley Niemeyer, UNL Extension Specialist Housing & Environment
Water conservation in the home: where to start?
To conserve water in the home, start with the largest water users. The toilet, shower/bath, and clothes washer account for two-thirds of the water used in an average household.
Toilets
About 20% of toilets leak. Put a few drops of food dye in the tank. If after 15 minutes, color appears in the bowl, you have a leak that should be repaired. Typically the toilet flapper needs replacement.
A toilet installed prior to 1993 may use up to 7 gallons of water per flush. Newer toilets use 1.6 gallons per flush. Pressure and vacuum assisted and jet action toilets were designed to improve waste removal.
Toilet dams, 1.6 gallon flappers or water-filled plastic containers can be installed in older toilet tanks but reduced flow can affect flushing. About 3 gallons of water may be needed in the tank to flush properly. Avoid bricks that crumble and affect operation.
Showers
Older showers can use as much as 6 to 8 gallons of water per minute (gpm) fully opened. As of 1994, shower heads use no more than 2.5 gpm.
A quick shower usually draws less water than a bath. If using a bath, use lower bathtub levels.
Clothes Washer
Adjust water level to the laundry load size and soil. Typically, less water will be used to wash fewer full loads than several small loads.
Look for the EnergyStar® label and amount of water used for tub capacity. Some washers sense the load size and soil of water and fabric and adjust the water level. High pressure rinses to spray clothes during the rinse cycle reduce water consumption. Adjustable water level settings allow you to choose the level for the load.
Information from “Make Every Drop Count In Your Home”
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3. Conserve Water and Help Your Septic System
By Sharon Skipton, UNL Extension Educator and Jan Hygnstrom, UNL Biological Systems Engineering
Conserving water to reduce the amount of wastewater that needs to be treated and distributing water flow to the septic tank over an extended period of time will extend the life of a system.
Wastewater should remain in the septic tank long enough, at least 24 hours, for heavy solids to settle out forming sludge and light solids to float to the top forming scum. Except immediately after pumping, a septic tank contains wastewater to its full capacity at all times. As a gallon of wastewater flows into the tank from the house, a gallon of effluent flows out of the tank into the drainfield.
If wastewater moves in and out of the tank too rapidly due to constant flow for extended periods of time or heavy water flow at any given time, solids remain suspended in the wastewater and may move with the effluent out of the tank and into the drainfield. Solids can clog a drainfield, decreasing its ability to treat wastewater. This can lead to costly repairs or even replacement.
Conserve water and spread out water usage by following these suggestions:
- Wash one or two loads of laundry a day, rather than three or more loads in one day.
- Install low flow water fixtures, low volume toilets, and low water-use appliances when they need replacing.
- Check for and repair leaky faucets, toilets and other leaks in the plumbing system. Leaks can account for almost 15% of all wastewater that goes to a septic system.
- Take short showers.
- Turn off the faucet while brushing teeth or shaving.
If you need a water softening unit for your home, select one with demand-initiated regeneration. These types of units automatically determine when to regenerate by keeping track of the number of gallons of water used, by measuring the change in the electrical conductivity of the resin bed, or by sensing a change in water hardness. These regenerate and thus use water based on when the system needs it, rather than on a set time schedule. Most people find that a demand-initiated system regenerates less frequently than one with a timer.
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4. Check Flooded Wells for Safety
By Sharon Skipton, UNL Extension Educator
Heavy rains in some areas resulted in surface water run-off and flooding. Flood waters commonly contain high levels of bacteria. Bacteria can enter a water supply through inundation or infiltrate of flood waters or surface run-off.
Whenever a well is inundated by flood waters or surface run-off, bacterial contamination is likely. Shallow wells and wells that do not have water-tight casings, especially those in coarse-textured soils are at greatest risk of being contaminated in this way. If you suspect that the heavy rains may have impacted your well, have the water tested for bacterial contamination.
Testing is provided on a confidential basis and for a fee by the Nebraska Health and Human Services System Laboratory, some city/county health department laboratories, and some commercial water testing laboratories. Laboratories may use different testing methods, and may test for either total coliform, fecal coliform, E-coli, or a combination of these.
Water with bacteria present is not necessarily, but could be unsafe for consumption. Thus, if laboratory tests confirm the presence of bacteria in your water supply, the safest approach is to presume the water is unsafe for human consumption. The entire water system should be disinfected using shock chlorination.
Shock chlorination involves placing a strong chlorine solution in the well and the complete distribution system. After shock chlorination, submit another water sample for testing. More than one shock chlorination treatment may be needed to effectively treat the entire water supply.
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5. Improve Soils for Water Conservation
By Kelly Feehan, UNL Extension Educator
Water conservation is important. One method to conserve and protect water resources in landscapes and gardens is to have well adapted plants with healthy roots.
A good soil environment is key to plants developing an extensive root system. Prior to planting, or during fall, is a good time to incorporate organic matter like compost, peat moss, or well-aged manure to improve soils.
An established plant with a good root system tends to be more drought tolerant than shallow rooted plants and requires less frequent irrigation. If a plant is drought tolerant and well established, it may require little or no irrigation other than average rainfall.
Plants labeled as drought tolerant often have this characteristic because they tend to grow deep, extensive roots. However, in poor soils, even drought tolerant plants may not develop a good root system.
Roots require water and oxygen to grow. The addition of organic matter increases the amount of pore spaces as well as the water holding capacity of soil which leads to healthier roots.
Organic matter improves clay soils by making them friable. This increases pore space, therefore oxygen levels, in soil; and, improves water drainage so soils do not become water logged and pore spaces remain filled with water.
Clay soils can also become compacted and hard which restricts root growth and leads to run-off of water, fertilizers and pesticides. The addition of organic matter can help reduce compaction.
In sandier soils, organic matter improves the soils nutrient and water-holding capacities which deceases water loss as well as reducing leaching of nitrogen and pesticides from soil.
As a general rule, incorporate organic matter to a depth of eight inches for lawns and gardens and a depth of 12 inches for trees and shrubs.
If using composted organic material, use about a 2:1 ratio for the amount of organic matter to add. If you are improving the top eight inches of soil, spread a three to four inch layer of very well rotted organic matter over the soil and thoroughly till it in.
If you are considering adding other amendments such as gypsum, sulfur, or lime; it's very important to have a soil test taken first. These amendments provide benefits only under specific soil conditions. Soil test boxes and forms for the UNL Soil Lab are available from your local UNL Extension office.
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6. Avoid Overwatering
By Kelly Feehan, UNL Extension Educator
Some homeowners tend to over-water lawns and landscapes, especially when the weather is hot and dry. This is a waste of water and leads to unhealthy or dead plants.
Plant problems related to continually saturated soils include lawn yellowing, dieback of recently planted trees or leaf edges of young trees turning brown, leaf yellowing in annual flowers, and dieback of perennial flowers.
While over-watering can be a the problem, soils remaining saturated for too long are also due to poor soil drainage caused by clay soils or soil compaction, as well as too deep of a mulch layer or an improperly designed or used irrigation system.
Some people are surprised that plants can be over-watered. But too much water is just as harmful as too little. If you are watering on a daily basis, or even every other day, you are probably watering too often. If your landscape beds are watered with your lawn irrigation system, they are probably too wet.
Plant roots require oxygen and roots grow best when soils contain 15 to 25% oxygen. If soil is saturated, the pore spaces fill with water and oxygen becomes unavailable to roots. At a 5% oxygen level, roots stop functioning and become susceptible to root rots. At 2% soil oxygen, roots die.
There is no solid rule for how much or how often to water. Due to different soil types, growing conditions of a site, and plant types; one lawn or landscape bed may be fine with weekly watering while another requires twice a week or more frequent irrigation.
Before watering, check the soil to determine if moisture is needed, especially if mulch or weed mats are placed over plant roots. An easy way to do this is to insert a screwdriver into the soil. The screwdriver will slide in easily to the depth the soil is moist.
The amount of water to apply depends on soil type. Sandy soils require more frequent irrigation with less water applied each time. Loam or clay soils require less frequent irrigation, but water may need to be applied at a slower rate to wet the soil to an adequate depth. Watering two days in a row may be needed.
The key to effective watering is to wet the soil deep enough to encourage as deep of a root system as possible for the specific plant type; then wait until the soil begins to dry out before watering again.
The roots of most trees and shrubs grow in the upper 12 inches of soil as this is where oxygen is available. Wetting the soil any deeper than eight t 12 inches is a waste of water; and, placing water deeper than 12 to 18 inches with a root feeder will not benefit tree roots and is also a water waste.
For lawns, wet the soil at least four to six inches deep. For herbaceous ornamentals and vegetables, moisten the soil six to eight inches deep.
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7. Conserving Water in the Landscape
By Paul Hay, UNL Extension Educator
The time to plan for water conservation in the yard and landscape is now! There are a number of options to reduce extra water use which could tax our home or community water system and our pocketbook.
Lawn Care
Choose now which parts of the lawn will be high maintenance, medium maintenance, or low maintenance. The higher the level of maintenance a turf stand receives, including fertilizations, the more water it will require. Making the decision now about which areas of the yard to maintain at which level will help keep water use in line. Deciding in mid-summer to reduce watering on a high maintenance yard can be a disaster.
I had a good friend in Frontier County years ago who struggled to keep up about an acre of yard because his wife demanded it. I suggested that he spend more effort on the 3,000 square feet between the house and garage and just keep the rest regularly mowed. His wife raved about the improvements, while he was spending 1/4 the time, 1/4 the water, and 1/4 the money on the effort
The part of the lawn being watered needs one inch of water per week, whether by rain or irrigation, in warm weather. As temperatures get hot, 1.5 to 2 inches per week may be necessary, depending on soil conditions, to maintain an actively growing lawn.
Irrigation of 1/2 inch water per application is ideal, requiring most lawns to receive two applications of water per week during warm weather. An additional application may be necessary in a week when temperatures rise above 90 F degrees, however, avoid shallow, frequent, daily watering since it results in shallower rooting and more evaporation of water. (Refer to "Avoid Overwatering" in this newsletter.)
Mowing height of 2.5 to 3-inches can reduce soil temperatures and water use by plants.
Landscape Plantings
Ask yourself now if the garden is really going to be used and cared for throughout the season. If it is going to be neglected later keep the size and effort down from the start. Space plants out well and use mulches to reduce water usage.
Reduce the number of new plantings to care for. A landscape is a work in progress over the life of the home, not an instant garden catalog photo opt. We are going to need plenty of water and effort to take care of existing landscape plants and trees this year due to recovery from last summer's water shortages. Don't over-extend your resources of time, water, or investment.
Using native plants and other drought tolerant plants in your landscape can reduce water demand a good deal. Plants like yarrow, pussytoes, sedum, prairie clovers, daylilies, etc are examples of perennials which are quite drought tolerant. Plant like plants together, a few high requirement plants can force you to water an entire bed more frequently. Again the use of mulches is key to week control and water use efficiency.
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8. Rain Gardens in Place of Berms
By Kelly Feehan, UNL Extension Educator
Are you thinking of adding a berm to your landscape this year? Before you do, give some thought to a rain garden instead; or to combining a rain garden with a berm.
Rain gardens are slightly depressed landscape beds commonly planted to perennials, ornamental grasses and sometimes shrubs. They are located and designed to catch and soak up rain water; mainly from impervious surfaces such as roofs or driveways.
Rain gardens are gaining in popularity as concern over water quality and quantity grows. With each rainfall or snow melt, water flows over the land picking up sediment and pollutants and depositing them in rivers, streams, lakes, and ponds.
In towns, rainwater run-off is called stormwater. It flows to storm drains and then into rivers and lakes. It is not treated before it flows into these water bodies so any pollutants or sediment picked up as it flows over roofs, lawns, construction sites and pavement is deposited in rivers and lakes.
During heavy rain events, the volume of water can lead to stream bank erosion and sometimes flooding. Sediments and pollutants transported to surface water in storm water can lead to excessive algae growth, fish kills, poor quality water for recreation, increased litter and more.
By catching and soaking up rainwater, rain gardens slow run-off from our property, decrease the volume of water leaving our property, and conserve water. The plants in rain gardens intercept and filter pollutants, decreasing the amount reaching surface water.
You may be thinking you would rather not trap pollutants on your property. Most of the pollutants are soil from bare or unplanted areas, dust from roofs and driveways, grass clippings, tree leaves from roof gutters, fertilizer and/or pesticide granules from lawns and pet waste.
In small amounts, these pollutant sources are not a concern for a single property. It is when they combine with our neighbors and other neighborhoods pollutants, as well as pollutants from other towns and rural areas that they become an issue for water quality.
Rain gardens can make a difference if designed and sited properly. To do so, we need to know our property slope and soil type. Soil needs to be well drained and prepared correctly to improve drainage. Water in rain gardens disappears in 24 to 48 hours, if they are located, designed and built correctly; so they do not become a mosquito breeding ground.
Rain gardens are typically 100 to 300 square feet in size, four to eight inches deep and have a level bottom to allow water to pool evenly across the rain garden. They are bermed on three sides to catch and hold rain water. The side without a berm is usually perpendicular to an upslope or a downspout.
Rain gardens need to be located at least 10 feet away from a homes foundation to avoid seepage into basements. They should not be directly beneath a tree or over a septic system. Ideally, place them 25’ away from a septic system or wellhead. Be aware of underground utilities before digging a rain garden.
Locate rain gardens in the flattest part of the yard and avoid areas where rainwater tends to pool and stand for long periods. Most likely this is a location with poor soil drainage. If you have a heavy clay soil, think twice about establishing a rain garden or take extra steps to improve drainage.
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9. Saving Water in the Vegetable Garden
By Aaron Nygren, UNL Extension Educator
If your vegetable garden is starting to look like it could use a drink of water, here are some ways to reduce the amount of water used this year or next.
One of the best ways to reduce water use in the garden is to improve the soil through the addition of organic matter. Organic matter acts as a sponge holding on to water, so the more organic matter in the soil; the more water can be stored and released to plants. One easy way to add organic matter is to mulch with straw or hay. Mulch not only helps to build organic matter but also reduces evaporation of water from the soil surface.
If you haven’t planted all of your vegetables yet, there are several things you can do to reduce water use. Planting in blocks or narrow rows instead of wide rows helps to shade the soil from sunlight and results in more produce from a smaller area. Another good way to reduce water use is to plan your garden so that plants that need the same amount of water are close together. For instance put high water use plants such as green beans and sweet corn near each other.
When watering your garden, remember that one long application of water is much more effective that several short applications. Try to only water once a week and soak the soil well rather that watering a little bit each day. This way plants develop deep root systems and are less likely to wilt.
Also, if possible, direct water closer to the plants’ root zone. A cheap way to do this is to punch holes in the bottom of a coffee can that you stick close to your tomato or squash plants. When you pour water into the can it will soak into the soil with minimal losses to evaporation or runoff. A more expensive way is to install a drip irrigation system or to use soaker hoses. Drip irrigation systems emit water slowly close to the root system. This reduces the amount of soil that gets wet, helping to reduce evaporation and making sure the water gets used by your vegetables.
If you do have to use a sprinkler to water your garden, try to only water in the morning when the air is cooler and the wind is calmer. This helps to reduce evaporation of water before it even hits the ground. Try to avoid running sprinklers in the evening as this can promote leaf disease. Also make sure to adjust the sprinkler so no water is hitting surrounding areas.
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10. NeRAIN Wants You
WANTED: Several hundred weather watchers in Nebraska. If you are willing to spend a few minutes each day recording measurements of precipitation using backyard gauges, which will be provided by your local Natural Resources District and a grant from the Nebraska Environmental Trust, NeRAIN leaders want YOU.
The Nebraska Natural Resources Districts, Nebraska Department of Natural Resources and other water-focused organizations, will analyze and document data gathered by volunteers. The data will provide important daily decision-making information for agriculture, industry, home water use, utility providers, insurance companies, resource managers, and educators.
Precipitation reports by volunteers will be transmitted via the Internet to the Nebraska Department of Natural Resources each day. Climate analysts will process the data and prepare detailed maps showing rainfall patterns. Scientists and water managers will study these maps to learn how storms develop and move across the region and to make water-use decisions.
NeRAIN information will be updated daily and available for public access on the Nebraska Rainfall Assessment and Information Network web site.
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11. Nebraska Agricultural Water Management Demonstration Network- Identifying and Testing Technologies to Conserve Water, Energy
By Gary Zoubek, UNL Extension Educator and Suat Irmak, UNL Water Resource Engineer
The Nebraska Agricultural Water Management Demonstration Network (NAWMDN) was established to increase the adoption of newer technologies that will help farmers conserve water and energy resources associated with irrigated crop production. It established a system for testing improved technologies for measuring crop water use and soil water status and created a network of growers, UNL Extension, Natural Resource Districts (NRD), Natural Resource Conservation Service (NRCS), crop consultants, and enabled the adoption of water and energy conservation practices.
The Network was established in early 2005 in partnership between the UNL Extension and the Upper Big Blue Natural Resources District (UBBNRD). The Natural Resouces Conservation Service became a valuable partner in this Network in 2006.
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Figure 1. Modified Atmometers
ET gage ®)
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The type of technology used to monitor crop water use and soil water status is critical to the success of the project. Tools need to be accurate but easy to understand and operate, and data gathered from these tools should not be difficult to interpret.
Atmometers (ET gage, Figure 1) were used to monitor crop water use in the network. An atmometer (ET gage) is one of the alternative tools that can be used to mimic evapotranspiration ET rates. This information along with crop growth stage can be utilized for irrigation management. The simplicity of the use and interpretation of the ET gage data, as well as the economic feasibility, makes it easy for farmers to monitor their own crop water use and for effective irrigation management.
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In this project ET gages are used to estimate crop water use and Watermark sensors are used to measure soil moisture to determine irrigation timiung and amount.
For more information on Atmometers or ET gages refer to: Modified Atmometers (ET gages) for Irrigation Management. The ET gages are usually place at the edge of the irrigated field or service road for easy access.
Watermark Granular Matrix Sensors (Figure 2) are simple, economical, durable, and accurate tools to monitor soil water status. Water conditions inside the Watermark sensor change with corresponding variations in water conditions in the surrounding soil. These changes within the sensor are reflected by differences in electrical resistance between two electrodes imbedded in the sensor. Resistance between the electrodes decreases with increasing soil water. |
Figure 2. Model 200SS Watermark ® sensor with stainless steel sleeve and a hand-held meter.
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New transmission material (sand) used in the sensor is designed to respond more quickly to soil wetting and drying cycles. The Watermark sensor does not dissolve in the soil over time, which generally occurs with a gypsum block. The sensor has been proven to be accurate and provide a good indication of soil matric potential in a variety of soil types. The matric potential can be converted to soil water content and available soil water per foot of soil layer can be determined.
For more information on the Watermark sensors refer to: Watermark Granular Matrix Sensor to Measure Soil Matric Potential for Irrigation Management.
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Initial Progress and Accomplishments of NAWMDN
One ET gage and four Watermark sensors were installed (every 12 inches up to 4 ft deep) in the soil profile in each demonstration field. In 2005, there were 18 demonstration sites. Some of the ET gage and Watermark sensors were read by the growers and some by Network members on a weekly basis.
In 2006, the second year of the project, there were over 50 demonstration sites. In 2007, this number is expected to exceed 120. Each year, the NAWMDN team organizes several educational meetings during the growing season and over the winter teach participants how to use the ET gage and Watermark sensors, review the results, assess progress, set future goals, and obtain feedback from growers. Project progress, findings, accomplishments, and future goals and objectives were presented at several local, regional, and national meetings and conferences.
2007 NAWMDN Efforts
Expansion to include additional growers, crop consultants, extension educators and specialists, state and federal water regulatory agencies, and other interested partners occurred this year. Two informational meetings were held in Scottsbluff and York for Extension Educators and NRD personnel to inform them of the efforts and encourage participation. The Upper Big Blue NRD has recruited cooperators for more ET gage sites and the Little Blue NRD has recruited over 20 cooperators and will have 20 ET gages located across the district. Additional ET gages will be utilized in 2007 in the Northeast, Central, and Panhandle part of the state, but numbers are not currently known.
Reference ET information will be posted on the Upper Big Blue and Little Blue NRD web sites. Plans are underway to develop a state wide web site, similar to the NeRAIN site for the 2008 growing season for easy data entry and sharing.
Growers, crop consultants and others that would like to learn more about these tools can contact the following personnel for more information.
| Contact |
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Email |
Suat Irmak, UNL Irrigation Specialist, Lincoln, Project Director
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402-472-4865
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sirmak2@unl.edu
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Gary Zoubek, UNL Extension Educator, Project Manager/All counties
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402-362-5508
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gzoubek1@unl.edu
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For a complete listing of program contacts, visit:
Crop Watch- May 18, 2007 |
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12. Dormant vs. Summer Pruning
By John Fech, UNL Extension Educator
Timing of dormant pruning is critical. Pruning should begin as late in the winter as possible to avoid winter injury. Apple trees should be pruned first, followed by cherry, peach, and plum trees. A good rule to follow is to prune the latest blooming trees first and the earliest blooming last. Another factor to consider is tree age. Within a particular fruit type, the oldest trees should be pruned first. Younger trees are more prone to winter injury from early pruning.
Summer pruning eliminates an energy or food producing portion of the tree and results in reduced tree growth. Pruning can begin as soon as the buds start to grow, but it is generally started after vegetative growth is several inches long. For most purposes, summer pruning should be limited to removing the upright and vigorous current season's growth; only thinning cuts should be used. To minimize the potential for winter injury, summer pruning should not be done after the end of July.
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13. Summer Care of Raspberries
By Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator
Weed control in raspberries is necessary to reduce competition for water, nutrients, and sunlight. Cultivation and mulches are the most practical control measures for acreage gardeners. Cultivate the raspberry planting frequently during the spring and summer months. Small weed seedlings are relatively easy to kill. Large weeds are difficult to destroy. To prevent injury to the roots of the raspberry plants, don't cultivate deeper than 2 inches.
Mulches help to control weeds and conserve moisture. Possible mulching materials include straw, sawdust, wood chips, lawn clippings, and shredded leaves. The depth of the mulch needed depends upon the material. The depth ranges from 3 to 4 inches for sawdust to 8 to 10 inches for straw. (When mulching red raspberries, apply the full depth between the rows. Within the rows, apply only enough mulch to control the weeds so new canes can emerge in the spring.) Since mulches gradually decompose, apply additional material each year.
Good cultural practices should help prevent many insect and disease problems. For example, pruning and removal of the old fruiting canes immediately after the summer harvest will remove potential disease inoculum and help control diseases. Also, maintaining red raspberries in a 1- to 2 foot-wide hedgerow helps insure good air circulation and penetration of sunlight. The narrow hedgerow should dry quickly after a rain, discouraging disease development. Apply pesticides when insects and diseases start to cause significant damage.
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14. Ponds Can Be a Source of Fun- And Hazards
By Sharry Nielsen, UNL Extension Educator
Your acreage pond may be an important economic or recreational part of your life. Ponds are useful as part of soil and water conservation programs, to water animals, as a source of irrigation, and, maybe even for fire protection. Acreage ponds may also be a great source of recreation, when used for fishing, boating, or swimming.
But, ponds also harbor hazards for family members and visitors to your acreage. It is your responsibility to see that the pond is as safe as possible. In many cases it is recommended that ponds be fenced and posted to keep out uninvited guests.
The biggest hazard of a pond is accidental drowning. Children are most often the victims of farm pond drownings. Natural curiosity, short attention spans, and lack of adult supervision contribute to accidents.
To keep your family and visitors safe while enjoying the pond on your acreage, follow these guidelines:
- Be sure all who use the pond are able swimmers.
- Remove submerged rocks, broken bottles, tree limbs and other hazards from the pond.
- Place signs warning of specific hazards, such as drop-offs, caving banks, etc.
- Practice the buddy system – be sure everyone knows the rule that no one swims or boats alone.
- Insist on adult supervision for small children.
- Keep a rescue post near the pond. A rescue post may be steel or wood and should be set firmly in the ground near the pond. On the post hang a life buoy or ring attached to a nylon rope long enough to reach across the pond. Also attach a thin, lightweight 12' - 14' pole to the post to aid in rescue. Near the top of the post attach a laminated card with the location of the nearest telephone and emergency numbers.
- Have your pond tested for contamination. Not all ponds are suitable for swimming. If the water is cloudy, smells bad, or has excess algae, it may contain contamination from fertilizers, pesticides, or livestock wastes.
Youngsters are naturally attracted to water. Before declaring the pond on your acreage open for the season, take a few steps to ensure that it will be a safe and fun place for all who visit.
Source: Adapted from “Farm Pond Safety” AEX–390, Thomas L. Bean, Ohio Cooperative Extension Service.
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UPCOMING EVENTS
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15. From Recipe to Reality Seminar, June 1
The Food Processing Center is offering a one-day seminar for all individuals interested in exploring the idea of starting a food manufacturing business. The “From Recipe to Reality” seminar will be offered in 2007 on August 10 and October 29.
Pre-registration is required and space is limited.
Contact Jill Gifford at (402)472-2819 or jgifford1@unl.edu for an information packet. For more information, visit the UNL Food Processing's Food Entrepreneur web site.
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16. "A Day in the Gardens", June 2
Come spend “A Day in the Gardens” at the beautiful Eastern Nebraska 4-H Camp. 4-H participants, their parents and siblings are welcome. This educational opportunity is limited to the first 30 paid 4-H members.
Plan to arrive early. Local beekeeper Everett Smith will give a presentation during registration from 8:30-9:00 a.m.
Four sessions including gardening, prairies, trees, and landscaping will take place throughout the day. Each session will include three topics, hands-on activities, and take home materials that can inspire future 4H projects.
Finally, an optional nature hike will take place from 4:00-5:00 p.m., illustrating some of concepts learned throughout the day.
Date: June 2
Time: 8:30 a.m.- 5:00 p.m.
Location: Eastern Nebraska 4-H Camp, Gretna, NE
Registration Fee: $5.00 per person, includes lunch
Registration Deadline: May 15
Brochure
For more information contact:
UNL Extension
(402) 426-9455
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17. 4-H Family Livestock Judging Contest, June 7
The Dodge County 4-H Program invites all 4-H families interested in spending time together and evaluating livestock to attend the Dodge County 4-H Family Livestock Judging Contest. This is an awesome opportunity for inter-generational interaction. 4-H clubs and individuals are also welcome to take part in this family event!
Brochure, http://acreage.unl.edu/Newsletter/Programs/07FamilyLivestockJudging.pdf
For more information contact:
UNL Extension in Dodge County
(402) 727-2775
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18. 4-H Meat Goat Clinic and Progress Show, June 9
All Nebraska 4-Hers, ages 8-18, and currently enrolled in the 4-H Meat Goat project are invited to participate in the Gosper County Meat Goat Clinic and Progress Show on June 9th at the Gosper County Civic Center in Elwood, NE.
Scott Pruett of Colorado will conduct the Clinic in the morning and judge the Progress Show in the afternoon. Pruett has been involved with 4-H livestock all his life. He participated on Kansas and Texas college livestock judging teams. He has judged livestock at county and state levels. He and his family live near Keenesburg, CO and raise cattle, sheep and boer goats.
During the clinic, Pruett will discuss goat health, nutrition and handling, genetics, marketing, the future outlook of the goat market, fitting for shows, how to judge breeding and market goats
Clinic& Show Schedule
Weigh-Ins: 8:00 to 8:45 a.m. and 12:30 to 1:00 p.m.
Registration: 8:30 a.m.
Clinic Begins: 9:00 a.m.
Progress Show begins: 1:30 p.m.
Registration: $20 per family, $10 per individual
Pre-registration for clinic/show welcomed. Fees include clinic and handouts and up to 3 goats per 4-H family to show. Any more than 3 goats is an additional $3 per goat.
Clinic Brochure & Registration Form
For more information contact:
Jon Wooters or Kathy Beck
(308) 785-2390
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19. Nebraska Statewide Arboretum Plant Sale, June 9
Some of the plants being offered at the June 9 Nebraska Statewide Arboretum (NSA) plant sale are natives from which new selections, with exceptional ornamental characteristics or disease resistance, have been chosen and developed.
Bob Henrickson, Assistant Director for Horticulture Programs, lists some of his favorite plant offerings for the year:
- ‘Prairie Gypsy’ beebalm for clean, mildew-resistant foliage, shade tolerance, compact habit and early bloom time.
- ‘Prairie Jewel’ Eupatorium, a native prairie plant selected by Ed Rasmussen of “The Fragrant Path.” Henrickson likes the way the small, tight buds open slowly over a period of several weeks.
- Queen of the meadow with misty clusters of fragrant, creamy-white flowers and handsome foliage; and shining bluestar with light blue flowers on a 3’ mound of glossy, think foliage that turns yellow in fall.
- Oriental St. Johnswort, a compact shrublet that stays green far into the winter.
For trees, there are some hardy pink and white flowering dogwoods, a dwarf Russian almond, bittersweet, many oaks and Viburnums, among others.
Plant buyers can follow the signs from the north entrance to UNL’s East Campus on 38th and Huntington/Leighton. A complete plant list is on the web at http://arboretum.unl.edu/plantsales or call the Arboretum office at 402/472-2971.
The Nebraska Statewide Arboretum is a horticultural organization with endeavors and initiatives in education, the arts, community development and the environment. A partnership between a private nonprofit membership organization and the University of Nebraska-Lincoln Institute of Agriculture and Natural Resources, the mission of the Arboretum is to “enhance the culture and beauty of Nebraska.”
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20. Nebraska Wildflower Week, June 2-10
Inspired by a similar national event, Nebraska Wildflower Week is a celebration of wildflowers and native plants in the wild and in the landscape through an array of events and activities across Nebraska. It is observed in early June (June 2-10), when Nebraska’s prairies and gardens are typically at their prime.
The Nebraska Statewide Arboretum serves as coordinator and clearinghouse for Wildflower Week activities, offering updated event information at http://arboretum.unl.edu/wildflower.
Opportunities for wildflower enthusiasts in southeast Nebraska include a tour of virgin prairie near Unadilla, a wildflower and native plant sale in Lincoln, botanical illustration classes at Spring Creek Prairie Audubon Center, and wildflower walks in Omaha at Fontenelle Forest Nature Center, Mahoney State Park and Lauritzen Gardens, which is also hosting activities for children ages 6-12 (complete list of events below).
In western Nebraska, Agate Fossil Beds National Monument near Harrison is hosting a wildflower seminar, walks with a botanist and a chance to sketch wildflowers with their artist-in-residence.
Wildflower-related events are listed below. For wildflower resources and event updates, visit http://arboretum.unl.edu/wildflower or call 402/472-2971.
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21. 2007 4-H Fort Robinson Horse Camp, June 14-16
Slide on in to the 2007 4-H Horse Camp. 4-H member of all ages, along with their leaders, sponsors or parents are welcome. All participants should be prepared to take care of themselves and their horse.
What to bring: Bed rolls, towels, toiletries, tents, campers, snow boots, clothing (wet/dry, cold/hot), flashlight, lunge line, a smile, plus one (1) thingamajig, hammer, your favorite lariat, camera, pitchfork, helmet(if you have one) and a horse you can handle. Swimming is available at Crawford and Ft. Robinson.
The 4-H code of conduct will be in effect. Campers out of compliance with the 4-H Code will be dismissed.
Camp training topics will include senior, intermediate and junior reining, English equitation and trail class, braiding nylon lead ropes, roping skills and 12 horse games.
Date: June 14-16
Location: Fort Robinson State Park
Registration fee: $35.00 per camper
Registration deadline: June 4
Brochure &
Registration Form
For more information contact:
Scott Cotton,
UNL Extension Educator
(308) 432-3373 or
scotton2@unl.edu
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22. Understanding the Night Sky, June 16
UNL Extension in Johnson & Pawnee Counties presents “Understanding the Night Sky”, Saturday, June 16th, 3:00-6:00 p.m. at the Pawnee County Fairgrounds, Pawnee City, NE
At the youth workshop, youth (ages 8-18) will learn how to understand the motions in the sky and use a sky chart. They will also build a simple telescope, sky clock and altitude marker. Youth interested in participating in the workshop do not need to be 4-H members to participate, however, space is limited to the first 40 registrants.
| Additional happenings: |
6:00 p.m.
Dinner |
After the youth workshop, the general public is invited to participate in a Sloppy Joe Dinner (free will offering) at 6:00 P.M., sponsored by the Pawnee County 4-H Council. |
7:00 p.m.
Outdoor movie |
Following the dinner we will enjoy watching "October Sky" as our outdoor movie selection. |
9:00- 10:30 p.m.
Guided star gazing event
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Following the movie, the public will be able to participate in a guided star gazing event until 10:30 P.M. |
The entire activity will be presented by members of SEPPO, under the direction of Dr. Kevin Lee of UNL’s Center for Science, Mathematics, & Computer Education.
All you need to do is bring your telescopes, lawn chairs and perhaps a blanket for on the ground! ALL ACTIVITIES ARE FREE! This event is funded in part through a NASA Ideas Program Grant.
For more information contact:
Deb Weitzenkamp, 402-852-2970 or 402-335-3669
Program brochure & registration form
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23. Animal Science Contest Day, June 18
4-H club or family teams are invited to participate in the South Central 6- Animal Science Contest Day, June 18 at the Nuckolls County Fairgrounds in Nelson, NE. The day's events will include a poultry contest, skill-a-thon and livestock judging contest.
Brochure
For more information contact:
Crystal Fangemeier
UNL Extension
(402) 225- 2381
cfangmeier2@unl.edu
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24. 4-H Horse Judging Contest, June 27
| Date |
Location |
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| June 27 |
Pine Ridge Stables |
7 miles North of Ashland, NE
or 8 miles South of Yutan, NE |
Time: 8:30-3:00 p.m.
Registration: $3.00 per person
| Schedule: |
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| 8:30 a.m. |
Registration |
| 9:00 a.m. |
Welcome & Orientation |
| 9:15 a.m. |
4 Halter Classes
3 Performance Classes
4 Sets of Questions
2 Sets of Oral Reasons (Sr. Division) |
| Lunch |
Available on Grounds |
| 1:30 p.m. |
Oral Reasons (Sr. Division) |
| 3:00 p.m. |
Presentation of Awards |
Club and County teams will consist of 3 or 4 individuals with top three scores. Please have teams formed before registration. Register only once - team members will automatically be entered as individuals.
DIVISIONS:
Jr. Individual, Jr. Team - under 12 years of age by January 1, 2007
Sr. Individual, Sr. Team - 12 years of age by January 1, 2007
Adult - 19 years of age by January 1, 2007
4-H’ers who have represented Nebraska at a National Horse Judging Contest must judge in the adult division.
For more information contact:
Steve Niemeyer, UNL Extension Educator, (308) 346-4200
Monte Stauffer, UNL Extension Educator (402) 444-7804 |
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