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1. Hoary Vervain Often a Problem in Overgrazed Pastures
by Stevan Knezevic, UNL Extension Weed Specialist
Hoary vervain (Verbena stricta), also known as wooly verbena or tall vervain, is a common native weed in northeast Nebraska’s over-grazed rangeland, prairies and disturbed sites in all soil types.
Hoary vervain is a perennial forb from the vervain family (Verbenaceae) that reproduces by seeds. The taproot (perennial structure) produces individual erect plants. The stem is nearly round, simple or branched above and can be up to 5 ft tall, covered with soft white hairs.
Leaves are opposite and leaf blades are ovate with many teeth; their lower surface is pubescent with highly visible veins. Like many other plant species, the overall growth and development depends on the amount and timing of rainfall.
In Nebraska hoary vervain can flower from May to September, with blue or purple flowers positioned on the top of the main stem and branches. It produces a two-seeded fruit.
Several other types of vervain — prostrate, white, and blue — grow in Nebraska and have similar growth forms and habits as hoary vervain.
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Hoary Vervain, Chris Evans, River to River CWMA, Bugwood.org |
Hoary vervain provides forage for deer while seeds are an important food source for small mammals and upland birds. Native Americans also made a tea from the leaves to treat stomachache. It has no value to livestock because of its low palatability.
Several methods are available for controlling this weed.
Mechanical. Mowing the plants when they are 3-5 inches tall can reduce vervain population considerably for the season. Mow once or twice during the season, depending on rainfall. One mowing in mid-June can be effective (more than 75% control) if the season is dry, due to lack of moisture needed for weed regrowth. If the season is wet, an additional mowing is needed in July-August.
Chemical. Herbicides also can be very effective in providing season- long control. Herbicide application should be conducted when vervain plants are 3-5 inches tall, which is usually in early June. The list of effective herbicides, their rates and cost per acre includes: Salvo (12 oz/ac, $4), Grazon P+D (32 oz/ac, $8), Weedmaster (32 oz/ac, $6), Ally (0.25 oz/ac, $8) and Vista (22 oz/ac, $8).
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2. Controlling Buckbrush in Pasture
by Stevan Knezevic, UNL Extension Weed Specialist
Buckbrush (Symphoricarpos orbiculatus) is a common native weed in northeastern Nebraska’s rangeland, woodland, ravines and along streams. It is a perennial forb that reproduces both by seeds and rhizome. (Rhizome is a horizontal creeping root system growing in the top 2-12 inches of soil.) Rhizomes can access soil moisture faster and from a deeper profile than fibrous roots of pasture grasses, giving buckbrush a competitive advantage over grass, especially in dry years.
Buckbrush plants usually start growing in sparse groups (patches or clusters) and then spread. Its stem is erect, 2-6 ft, brownish and somewhat smooth, with many branches. Leaves are opposite, elliptic to ovate with pointed tips. Like many other plant species, growth and development depends on the amount and timing of rainfall.
In Nebraska Buckbrush can flower from July to August, with greenish-white to purple flowers. Buckbrush can provide forage for deer early in the season and fruit for upland game birds, wild turkeys and songbirds later in the season. Buckbrush has no value to livestock because of its low palatability.
Ranchers need to control this species because heavy stands of buckbrush can reduce grass production as much as 80%, especially in dry years. Several control methods are available:
Biological. Goats and sheep can reduce buckbrush stands if confined to an area.
Mechanical. Single mowing of new 1-2 foot plants can reduce populations, especially in dry years. Additional mowing will be needed in wet years. Mowing also can remove the previous year’s growth to prepare the site for broadcast applications of herbicides.
Chemical. Herbicides are the most effective tools in providing season-long control. Herbicides should be applied when new growth is 6-12 inches tall. Effective herbicides and their rates per acre include: 2,4-D ester (2-3 qt/ac); Grazon P+D (1-2 qt/ac); Telar (1.0 oz/ac); mix of Cimarron (0.25 oz/ac) with WeedMaster (16 oz/ac); mix of Cimarron (0.25oz/ac) with RangeStar (16 oz/ac); and Cimarron (Ally, Escort) used alone at 0.5oz/ac.
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3. Poison Ivy- Identification & Control
by Bob Hartzler, Iowa State University Agronomy Professor
As a landowner, the adage ‘Leaves of three – let it be’ is poor advice. If you choose to ignore poison ivy on your property, it will likely spread and create even worse problems in the future. Poison ivy is a woody vine having compound leaves with three leaflets. The edges of the leaflets vary, having smooth, toothed, or lobed edges. Poison ivy can survive in a variety of habitats, but is most commonly found near perimeters of wooded areas. A large number of bird species use the seed as a food source, and thus spread seed to new areas. Virginia creeper has a similar growth habit and frequents the same habitats as poison ivy, but is easily distinguished by having five leaflets instead of three. Poison oak is limited to the west coast.
Eastern Poison Ivy,
Ohio State Weed Lab Archive, Ohio State University, Bugwood.org |
Poison ivy is responsible for more than two million cases of skin poisoning each year. Most people do not respond to the toxin the first time they contact the plant, but become more sensitive with repeated exposures. Only humans and other primates are sensitive to poison ivy.
The toxin is an oily compound present in all parts of the plant. The oil can be carried on clothing, tools, and pets, and in smoke. It retains its toxicity for long periods. |
Poison ivy can be controlled either mechanically or with herbicides. Small plants can be removed physically by completely removing the root system. Mechanical removal may not be feasible with larger plants or if you are highly sensitive to the plant.
Poison ivy is fairly tolerant of most commonly available herbicides (2,4-D; dicamba; Roundup, etc.) that are sprayed on the foliage. However, these compounds are much more effective as cut surface treatments. For this application, the vine is cut near the soil surface and then herbicide is painted on the exposed stem. This method not only provides more effective control of poison ivy, but also minimizes the amount of herbicide used and reduces the impact of the herbicide on desirable vegetation in the infested area.
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4. What size tractor do I need?
By Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator
That depends on what you want to do with the tractor and what your land is like. If you just want to mow grass on a fairly small, flat, level yard, a riding mower will probably be all you will need. On the other hand, if you want to plow a field, bale hay, pull stumps or borrow implements from neighbors, you'll need a more powerful machine.
Check out this site to help answer this question:
The Small Tractor FAQ, http://www.andrew.cmu.edu/user/kb13/ans_size.htm
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5. Preparing a Prairie Planting Site
By Steve Lekwa, Story County Conservation
The goal in preparing for any prairie planting is to have a firm seed bed with as little in the way of competition from weeds or existing perennial plants as possible.
One of the easiest ways to create a good prairie planting site is to use harvested soybean stubble with no additional tillage. If the rows are too heavily ridged, a very shallow pass with a disk or field cultivator should do the trick.
Fire is an effective tool to remove old growth and thatch so that seed can reach mineral earth. Fire will not kill bluegrass or brome, however, and both make a sod very tough for prairie seedlings to compete against if they are not controlled.
Roundup herbicide can suppress these competitors if applied when they are actively growing. That usually begins some time in April, but effectiveness diminishes as they near seed set in early summer.
The best time to apply Roundup is in the fall, but spring use will at least give some control for the first growing season. Seeding can be done with a drill or by broadcasting into the dying stubble. This technique is especially useful on steep, erosive sites.
Deep tillage such as moldboard plowing or heavy disking may be of some value in heavily sod-bound sites or deeply ridged row crop fields, but it is harder to prepare a firm seed bed in tilled soil. Fluffy seedbeds allow the seed to go too deep. Time the last site preparation work to allow planting by mid to late June.
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6. Beaver’s Biology and Behavior Affect the Damage They Cause
Stephen Vantassel, UNL Wildlife Damage Project Coordinator
Beavers have characteristics similar and yet very different from other American wildlife, and they can cause environmental damage in many different ways.
Beavers are North America’s largest rodent, with adults ranging from 40 to 60 pounds. Beavers are industrious, curious and social. At one time, demand for their valuable fur led to the exploration of North America and almost resulted in their extinction. But thanks to wildlife management, beaver populations have rebounded to sustainable levels.
The physical characteristics of beavers, such as webbed feet, nostrils and ears that can close under water, enable them to thrive in aquatic environments. Beavers also have a broad, flat, scaly tail and membranes that cover their eyes under water. They can remain submerged for up to 20 minutes by slowing their heart rates and using oxygen stored in their large livers.
Beavers mark their territories by excreting a sweet, yet pungent, musk from paired glands around their anus called castors. Typically, beavers deposit castor on mounds of grass and mud found at the water’s edge. Aside from the distinctive odor, newly established mounds exhibit a reddish stain.
Beavers also are vegetarian. They eat the inner bark of birch, cottonwood, willow, aspen, alder, maple and dogwood trees that they store in underwater caches in preparation for the winter. In the spring or summer, a beaver diet switches to herbaceous vegetation, including water lilies, corn, soybeans, wheat, carrots, potatoes, apples, clover and alfalfa.
Beavers, who mate for life, breed during January with two to four young being born three to four months later. The young, called kits, begin eating leafy material at about six weeks of age. They typically remain with their parents for two years. Upon arrival of their next young, parents drive out the 2-year-olds to establish territories of their own.
Harvest by humans has the largest impact on beaver populations, but river otters, wolves, coyotes, bobcats and large birds of prey occasionally kill beavers. Beavers warn the colony of danger by slapping the water with their flat tail before diving to safety.
Beavers prefer to build dams where the water flow becomes constricted and often find culverts, overflow pipes and other human-made conduits particularly attractive. Dams vary in size according to need, but can range from just a few feet to several hundred feet in length.
Damming activity results from beavers’ innate drive to stop the sound of running water. The resultant impoundment can range in size from a few acres to dozens of acres. Beavers use a variety of materials to build their dams, including tree limbs, typically using branches 2 to 4 inches in diameter, mud and sometimes rocks, plant stalks and trash.
Although beavers can live in dome-shaped lodges built of limbs and mud placed in the middle of a pond, Nebraska beavers typically dig their dens into the bank.
Beavers can harm large trees by stripping off the tree bark in a process called girdling. Even if the beaver fails to girdle the trunk’s circumference completely, the damaged tree may still die or fail to thrive.
Beavers are one of the few animals capable of altering their environment to suit their needs. The flooding from beaver dams can result in the flooding of large areas with deep standing water where once only shallow, slow-moving water existed. Plants and animals adapted to pond life and associated wetlands quickly establish themselves in the newly flooded area.
Depending on the location and size, beaver ponds can cause significant damage to human interests. Flooding can remove pastures and crops from production and drown stands of trees. One study estimated that flooding cause by beavers resulted in annual losses of $22 million to the southeastern U.S. timber industry.
Flooding may also threaten public safety by compromising the integrity of levees, dikes, roadways, bridges and trestles through saturation of the soil with water. Dens can pose risks by undermining the integrity of a water-holding structure or collapsing under the weight of farm equipment.
The environmental benefits provided by beaver ponds and wetlands should be weighed against the damage before implementing any beaver control.
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7. Two Options Work Best For Controlling Beavers
Stephen Vantassel, UNL Wildlife Damage Project Coordinator
Beavers can cause structural flooding damage to their environment, but fortunately methods exist to control them.
Beaver damage can be mitigated two ways: Installing beaver pipes to manage water levels and fencing to protect valuable crops and trees or removing a local beaver population and preventing another colonization.
Beaver pipes are designed to manage the flooding caused by beaver dams at a tolerable level. Typically, pipes consist of flexible corrugated plastic pipes inserted through the dam to allow water to flow. The upstream end of the pipe is protected with large wire mesh to keep beavers from plugging the pipe.
While an important tool, these devices also have their limitations. First, they only protect trees from flooding, not from cutting. In addition, pipes only are effective in areas that can tolerate some flooding and maintain at least 3 feet of water depth or a minimum of 18 inches of water under the ice. Pipes also tend to fail in drainage ditches or flat canals; however, when used with fencing, they can be very effective in protecting culverts from beaver damming.
Pipes and fencing are not maintenance-free. They should be inspected in spring and fall to repair damage and remove any floating debris.
To protect ornamental trees and plants from beaver damage, place hardware cloth, screens, metal flashing, plastic culvert or drain tile around the plants. It’s easy and inexpensive to protect a few individual plants. Exclusion is rarely practical for protecting acres of timber or tree belts.
Use of concrete spillways may reduce or prevent damage to dams caused by burrowing beavers. Rip-rap also can be used on earthen dams or levees. Electrical barriers, which produce an electrical field, have been effective in ditches and other narrow water channels. Electric fencing can stop beaver movement, provided that vegetation is properly controlled.
Some individuals have reported that trees can be protected by painting a mixture of alkyd paints with clean, coarse sand on tree bark at a rate of 4 ounces of mason sand per quart of paint. However, research performed in Washington state challenged that claim. Castor, a musk secreted by beavers, placed on mounds may prevent beavers from becoming established in an area. This technique only will work if started and maintained before the newly evicted beavers reach the area.
Trapping is the most effective method of removing beavers from specific damage areas. Biologists with the Nebraska Game and Parks Commission monitor beaver populations and establish trapping regulations to ensure the viability of the species and the protection of public interests. Property owners are encouraged to have problem beavers controlled during the regular trapping season.
A variety of traps are available for capturing beaver. Effective and safe trapping requires knowledge of the beaver habits, habitat conditions and presence of non-target animals as well as knowledge of traps and lures.
Body-grip traps, such as the Conibear, are designed to cause the quick and humane death of beavers. These traps are best used during the spring, summer and fall. In Nebraska, traps having a jaw spread greater than 8 inches may be used only in underwater sets to catch beavers. Place body-grip traps in runways or at lodge entrances. Body-grip traps, when used correctly, present little risk to non-target animals.
Foot-hold traps are extremely versatile tools for the capture of beaver. They require more training than usual for body-grip sets because one has to decide whether the front or rear foot is the target. Place footholds near or in active runways of beaver. Anchor footholds in water more than 4 feet deep to ensure that the beaver drowns quickly. Use size No. 3 or larger footholds for trapping beaver.
Snares can be set to catch beaver’s bodies. The snares consist of a cable formed into a loop with a locking device and a swivel to reduce cable twisting and breakage. Snares are typically placed in beaver runways or at the lodge entrance. If snaring before ice forms, be prepared to find a live beaver in the snare.
In addition, raccoon-size cage traps and larger will capture beaver.
The Nebraska Game and Parks Commission requires a Beaver Damage Permit before any beavers are shot. Shooting and spotlighting are most effective when problem beavers are few in number and/or they have become trap-shy. Shooting may provide immediate relief from a problem but can be more time-consuming than trapping. Shooting is best left to trained professionals as beavers quickly learn from a shooter’s mistakes.
No toxicants are registered for use on beavers in Nebraska.
Remove beavers before breaching or removing beaver dams. Failure to remove beavers can disrupt their movements and needlessly hinder beaver control efforts.
Breaching is used to clear impediments to water flow. Dams located inside culverts are particularly dangerous and should be breached by only properly trained and equipped individuals. Unwanted beaver dams can be removed by hand with a rake or power tools. Ideally the dam should be breached gradually during several days to reduce downstream flooding and erosion.
Dam breaching is an inherently dangerous activity due to the risk of drowning by dam collapse. If possible, dams should not be disturbed during the winter to prevent negative impacts to wildlife in and around the waterway.
Beavers are classified as furbearers and are thereby protected by the Nebraska Game and Park Commission. Contact a local conservation officer or wildlife manager to find out when beavers can legally be removed or to receive a permit.
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8. Plants Deer Won’t Eat
By Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator
Where deer are concerned, there is good news and bad news. The bad news is that no plant is 100% deer proof. The good news is that there are plants that deer will only eat as a last resort.
In general, deer tend to avoid strongly scented plants like herbs, plants with thick or leathery leaves such as yucca and thorny plants such as thistle. Bear in mind though that fawns will sample everything as they learn which plants are most palatable. There are also regional differences in which plants deer eat and don't eat. And within the same geographic location, differences in diets of deer.
You can test plants by putting them out for a few days before planting to see if your local deer have a taste for them. Larger, established plants usually recover from mild browsing. Plants that are nibbled by deer during winter dormancy generally recover in the spring.
Check out this web site for plants deer don’t like:
Plants Deer Won't Eat, http://lancaster.unl.edu/pest/resources/Deerplants.shtml
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9. Nest Box Maintenance
by Steve Lekwa, Director, Story County, Iowa Conservation
Nesting season is already well along for our bird friends, but bird houses around the acreage still need your attention. Bluebirds, in particular, need help until at least mid-August in order to successfully raise their normal two to three broods of young ones. These gentle birds do not compete for or defend their nests very well from the many predators and nest competitors that think bluebird boxes are an easy source for a meal or an ideal place for their own nests.
Weekly, or even more frequent, checking of nest boxes and the condition of young can help avoid problems with invading house wrens, English sparrows, and parasites. Birds will not abandon nests because you open the box to check them. Learn to recognize a wren's piles of twigs and a house sparrow's messy pile of grass and trash and remove them when they appear. Wrens can use boxes built just for them with one-inch holes, placed well away from the bluebird box. Also learn to recognize and welcome nests of desirable "renters" like tree swallows and chickadees.
Nests should be removed once the young leave to prevent the build-up of parasites and allow new nest establishment.
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10. Managing the Blue Orchard Bee As an Orchard Pollinator
In recent years, the blue orchard bee (BOB) has become established as an alternative orchard pollinator in North America. With a strong preference for fruit trees, BOBs are highly efficient pollinators; in fact, just 250-300 females will pollinate an entire acre of apples or almonds.
BOBs forage and pollinate under cloudy skies and at lower temperatures than most other bees. They are easy to manage and rarely sting.
To learn how to manage BOBs for successful orchard pollination, consult this guide from the USDA-ARS Bee Biology and Systematics Laboratory. Learn about:
- BOB natural history
- Building nesting materials
- Rearing and wintering populations
- Field management for maximum pollination
- Deterring parasites and predators
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Blue orchard bee, Osmia lignaria.
Photo by Scott Bauer.
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PDF version of the Book published at the Logan PIRU USDA Lab:
Bosch, J., Kemp, W. 2001. How to Manage the Blue Orchard Bee: As an Orchard Pollinator. Sustainable Agriculture Network. Beltsville, MD. pp 88, http://www.sare.org/publications/bee/blue_orchard_bee.pdf
Other publications referring to the Blue Orchard Bee include:
Wood, M. 2003. Blue Orchard Bees Help Pollinate Cherries. Agricultural Research Service News & Events. Beltsville, MD. http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/2003/030220.htm
Wood, M. 2002. Secrets of Blue Orchard Bees Revealed in New Book. Agricultural Research Service News & Events. Beltsville, MD. http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/2002/020419.htm
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11. Egg Cleaning For The Backyard Flock
By Kody M. Sok, UNL Poultry Extension Assistant; Sheila E. Scheideler, Ph.D., UNL Interim Animal Science Department Head and Poultry Specialist
Producing eggs can be a rewarding part of raising chickens. However, household poultry flocks can produce a high percentage of dirty or tainted eggs. Most of these eggs are soiled because they were laid in dirty nests or on the floor where they may have come in contact with fecal matter. Dirty eggs can be a health hazard if they are not properly washed and sanitized.
Prevention
Prevention is the best control to reduce the number of dirty eggs. Most eggs coming from nests should be clean if the nesting materials are kept clean. The production of floor eggs can be minimized if the flock is trained early to use its nest boxes.
When the pullets are 16-18 weeks of age, start introducing nest boxes and make sure to add bedding material, such as straw or wood shavings, to the bottom of the nest boxes. By week 20, a few fake eggs can be added into the nests to train the hens displaying nesting behavior to use the nest box.
Some notable nesting behaviors in hens are: pacing with the vent low to ground, acting like she is looking for something or sitting tight in a corner. The hen can be caught and placed in a nest. She may or may not stay when placed there, but she will know that there is a nest. Hens like a little privacy in which to lay an egg. There should be a nest available for every four to five hens.
Eggs should be gathered at least once a day or more often. The longer eggs are left in nests, the more likely they may be broken or dirtied. Nests should be cleaned once a week to remove dirty litter and manure and replaced with clean bedding materials.
Cleaning Dirty Eggs
Even under the best conditions, some dirty eggs may still result. Dirty eggs should be placed in a separate container so they don’t contaminate clean eggs.
Dirty eggs should be washed in water at least 20 degrees Fahrenheit warmer than the eggs. A good water temperature is 90-120 degrees Fahrenheit or as hot as the hands can tolerate for about 30 seconds or until the egg has been cleaned. This is so the contents of the egg will expand and purge any invading microbes.
It’s recommended to use a non-foaming, unscented detergent to wash the eggs. Eggs can absorb fragrance from a scented detergent, resulting in an off flavor. Unscented automatic dishwater or laundry detergent can be used. Wear rubber gloves as these materials can irritate the skin and can protect against hot water. After the initial wash, bleach can be used as a sanitizing dip with a ratio of 1 tablespoon bleach in a gallon of hot water. The sanitizing dip should be followed by a rinse.
With only a few eggs, washing can be done in a sink with hot water. The water and the sanitizer should be as hot as the hands can tolerate. Larger numbers of eggs require more attention.
Make up basins of detergent, rinse water and sanitizer, each one containing one to two gallons of solution. Change the detergent and rinse water after every three to four dozen eggs. The temperature of each solution should be no more than 90-120 degrees Fahrenheit. This should not result in hard-boiling or cooking the eggs, as they shouldn't be in the hot water any longer than it takes to wash them quickly.
Proper washing and sanitation reduces the risk of eggs spoiling and also food poisoning. Wash eggs individually, but do not soak in solutions. After the initial wash, rinse eggs in clean water, then dip into the sanitizer and set aside to dry. Clean eggs can be dipped into the sanitizer if desired.
Dry eggs should be promptly refrigerated to reduce risk of food poisoning. Store the larger end up to retain maximum storage capacity. Used egg cartons or egg flats work great, but avoid keeping close to strong odorous products such as fish, onions and garlic. Eggs may absorb those flavors.
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12. Do Your Tree A Favor, Mulch It!
by Mary Ann deVries, Polk County Iowa Horticulturist
We all know that trees are valuable assets. In fact, if your home is surrounded by cornfields, the comfort trees provide on hot summer days is absolutely priceless. That’s why it’s worth a little extra time and effort to mulch the trees you care about. The benefits are many.
During hot weather, a layer of organic mulch around a tree conserves moisture and significantly lowers soil temperature – both essential factors for good root growth. As organic mulches go through the natural process of breaking down, they add slow-release nutrients to the soil, as well as soil microbes, which are the sustaining food sources for any plant.
Mulches are just as important for what they take away from underneath a tree. Turfgrass and weeds with their dense root systems rob trees of soil moisture, especially during dry periods. By removing turfgrass, you eliminate a tough competitor. Also, a mulched zone around a tree protects it against injury too often caused by lawn mowers.
One common misconception about trees is that their roots are deep. Actually, feeder roots exist within 12-18 inches of the soil surface where they absorb both air and water. For this reason, grass clippings are not a good choice for mulching because they may mat and smother tree roots. A 3-4 inch layer of coarsely chipped tree branches and leaves is always best.
And remember: Apply mulch close but never directly against the trunk of your tree.
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UPCOMING EVENTS
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13. From Recipe to Reality Seminar, June 2
The Food Processing Center is offering a one-day seminar for all individuals interested in exploring the idea of starting a food manufacturing business. Pre-registration is required and space is limited.
Program dates for 2008:
June 2 - Lincoln, NE
August 8 - Lincoln, NE
October 27 - Lincoln, NE
Contact Jill Gifford at (402) 472-2819 or jgifford1@unl.edu for an information packet. For more information, visit the UNL Food Processing's Food Entrepreneur web site.
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14. Arboretum and Botanical Garden Tours Scheduled for Eastern Nebraska, Beginning June 12
Mark your calendars for the following tours of Nebraska arboretums and botanical gardens scheduled for 2008. The free tours will offer a chance for tree lovers, garden enthusiasts and green industry professionals to see and learn more about many great plants and many great gardens the state has to offer.
The tours will emphasize rare and impressive trees, but will also be a great opportunity to see many other beautiful garden plants and the wide variety of birds, butterflies and insects that visit them. The tours are coordinated and sponsored by the Nebraska Statewide Arboretum in partnership with local affiliated sites.
More information will be available on the NSA web site, http://arboretum.unl.edu, or by contacting NSA at (402) 472-2971 or jevertson1@unl.edu. Watch for additional tour locations to be added later.
- Thursday, June 12. Southeast Nebraska Arboretum Tour including Peru State College campus (9:00 to 11:00am), Furnas Arboretum in Brownville (Noon to 2:00pm), and the Krumme Arboretum in Falls City from 3:00 to 5:00pm. A plant sale will also be held as part of the Falls City event from 4:00 to 5:30pm.
- Thursday, July 10, 8:00am to 11:00am: Forest Lawn Cemetery Arboretum, Omaha.
- Saturday, August 23, 8:30am to 11:00am: NSA Display Gardens and Maxwell Arboretum, UNL East Campus, Lincoln. Plants will be for sale from the NSA green house during the event.
- Thursday, Sept 18, 9:00am to Noon: Lincoln Regional Center Arboretum. A brief NSA curators meeting will be held after the tour.
- Thursday, Oct 23, 3:00pm to 5:30pm: Blair Fall Color Tour including Steyer Park and Black Elk Park.
- Saturday, Oct 25, TBA: UNL City Campus fall color tour and Husker tailgate party prior to game with Baylor.
- Thursday, Nov 6, 3:00pm to dusk: Nebraska City Fall Color Tour including Arbor Lodge State Park, Nebraska City High School and NADF Arbor Day Farm.
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15. Master Beekeeping Workshop, June 26-28
A Master Beekeeping Workshop will be offered in Mead, NE at the Agricultural Research and Development Center Headquarters Building on June 26-28. This workshop will provide detailed instruction in the biology and management of honey bees. Training will include both classroom and hands-on sessions.
Beekeepers should have at least one year of experience managing honey bees before registering for this workshop. A team of experts has been assembled to make this an outstanding educational opportunity. Registration for the workshop is $100 and includes five meals, refreshments, a cap and a workbook.
Brochure
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