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1. Summer Mulch for Trees
By Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator
Nebraskans know that trees are valuable assets. In fact, if your home is surrounded by cornfields, the comfort trees provide on hot summer days is absolutely priceless. That's why it's worth a little extra time and effort to mulch the trees you care about. The benefits are many. During hot weather, a layer of organic mulch around a tree conserves moisture and significantly lowers soil temperature, both essential factors for good root growth. As organic mulches go through the natural process of breaking down, they add slow-release nutrients to the soil, as well as soil microbes, which are the sustaining food sources for any plant.
Mulches are just as important for what they take away from underneath a tree. Turfgrass and weeds with their dense root systems rob trees of soil moisture, especially during dry periods. By removing turfgrass, you eliminate a tough competitor. Also, a mulched zone around a tree protects it against injury too often caused by lawn mowers.
One common misconception about trees is that their roots are deep. Actually, feeder roots exist within 12-18 inches of the soil surface where they absorb both air and water. For this reason, grass clippings are not a good choice for mulching because they may mat and smother tree roots. A 3-4 inch layer of coarsely chipped tree branches and leaves is always best.
And remember- apply mulch close but never directly against the trunk of your tree.
Learn more . . .
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2. Ensure Good Survival in New Conservation Tree Plantings
By Dennis Adams, Nebraska Forest Service
Early explorers described Nebraska as "the great American desert" with not a tree to be seen in a day's travel. The first settlers realized the value of trees for protection, lumber, fuel and food. Planting trees quickly became a Nebraska tradition and Nebraska has long been known as the "tree planter's state." In keeping with this proud tradition, each spring over 1 million tree and shrub seedlings are planted in Nebraska for protection, beauty, and wildlife habitat, lumber, watershed protection and other conservation purposes.
All conservation plantings require considerable care to ensure good growth and survival. Taking care of your trees should begin early -- when you receive the seedlings.
Pre-planting Care
Immediately check the roots for moisture. If the roots appear dry, wet them down and keep moist until planted. It is best to plant the seedlings the same day they are received. But if it becomes necessary to hold seedlings for several days, they should be placed in the coolest place available, out of the sun, and kept moist. Never allow the roots to become dry or hot, as this will greatly reduce the chances for survival.
Planting
During the planting operation the roots must be kept moist at all times. Carry the seedlings in containers partly filled with water and covered with moist burlap. Plant the seedlings the same depth they grew in the nursery. Planting too shallow or too deep may result in poor survival. Make sure the seedlings are planted firm and straight (without doubling the roots) and the soil is well packed.
Many tree planters are very enthusiastic about getting their trees planted in the spring. They do a good job of everything up through planting the trees and then seem to forget them. These same people wouldn't think of planting their cornfields or gardens and then forget them. They become frantic if weeds or grass start to grow in their cornfields. They certainly wouldn't allow livestock to trample and eat their corn. Oddly enough, these same people often give little thought to the effect of poor care and lack of protection on their trees.
Enhance New Tree Survival and Growth
After planting, treat trees as you would any other crop. Help them in their fight for survival against drought, weeds, disease and pests by giving them the best care and protection. Visit your tree planting often the year round, to determine any attention it may need.
Protect your tree planting from animals, insects and disease. Animals may cause severe injury to trees. Soil compaction around roots, browsing, debarking and trampling by large animals is some of the damages from which your trees will need protection. The only remedy for this kind of damage is to build and maintain a fence to keep all large animals out of the planting.
Rabbits, mice and other rodents may cause severe damage to young trees, usually during the fall and winter months when other food sources are scarce. Debarking, girdling and even chewing-off the tops of some seedlings by rabbits is possible.
Trees can be protected by a guard made from hardware cloth encircling the stem and extending 12 inches above the highest snowfall. Homemade or commercial repellants and poisons are available. Mice will usually cause little damage if trash and debris is removed from the base of the tree, where they congregate and breed. If insect or disease problems are suspected or if your trees lack vigor and color, contact an extension specialist to diagnose and recommend treatment.
Weed Control
An important consideration in establishing seedling trees and shrubs is removal of weed competition. The first year is extremely critical; young trees depend on surface moisture to survive. Competition for moisture, light and nutrients by aggressive weeds and grasses may severely stunt or kill newly planted trees and shrubs.
Methods of controlling weed competition include cultivation, mowing, herbicides, and mulching. Removal of competing vegetation about two feet on each side of the tree row is most critical. The best and easiest time to control weeds and grasses is before or during their seedling stage. Established weeds and grasses can hide small tree/shrub seedlings and much more difficult to control.
In parts of the state where moisture is limited or erosion is not a problem, it may be best to cultivate between tree rows to remove all weeds and grass. Cultivation is the surest method to control weeds and retain moisture for the seedlings. Cultivation should not be too deep and should never ridge soil against the trees. Mowing vegetation between rows may be a better method of weed control where moisture is sufficient and a cover between rows is desirable to prevent soil erosion.
Some attempts have been made to plant brome grass, tall fescue, or other aggressive grasses to control weeds between rows of trees after the first year of cultivation. This is not recommended. Aggressive grasses can smother out weeds, but give young trees and shrubs the worst kind of competition for moisture and nutrients. When planting between tree rows is necessary, a short warm season grass or grass that goes dormant during drought conditions may be the best alternative.
Young trees and shrubs should be relatively free from weed competition for several years until they have reach a growth that will partially shade out grass and weed growth. By this time the tree root system will be established and developed to a degree that competition from weeds will be less of a problem.
Remember, the time spent protecting and maintaining your planting will pay substantial returns in comfort, protection and beauty.
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3. Control Tree Squirrel Damage
By Stephen Vantassel, UNL WildlifeDdamage Project Coordinator; Scott Hygnstrom, UNL Extension Wildlife Specialist; Dennis Ferraro, UNL Extension Educator
Tree squirrels are an attractive quarry to hunters wherever they are found. They are valued for their meat and fur. In 2006, Nebraska squirrel hunters harvested 17,500 tree squirrels. In addition, many people enjoy watching squirrels in public parks and in their own yards. On the negative side, tree squirrels damage personal property and cause an estimated loss of $500,000 per year to public power facilities in Omaha alone.
Flying squirrels are protected in Nebraska. Fortunately, they rarely conflict with human interests. Residents living in southeastern Nebraska should understand that activity by flying squirrels is frequently misattributed as mice.
Tree squirrels can cause a variety of problems, including damage to trees, flowers, lawns, gardens, vehicles and structures. Everyone who feeds birds is aware of the voracious appetite of tree squirrels for birdseed. On structures, the ability of squirrels to gnaw, enter small holes and climb a variety of surfaces make them a significant challenge. Squirrels can cause extensive damage to structural insulation and electrical wires in homes, vehicles and power lines.
Trim tree limbs at least 8 feet way from buildings to prevent squirrels from jumping to roofs. Failure to trim upper branches may simply allow a squirrel to leap down to the roof from a higher branch. To prevent climbing on buildings or trees, install three horizontal rows of porcupine wire spaced so that the points are 1-inch apart. Porcupine wire is extremely sharp. Prevent potential human injuries by installing the wire at least 9 feet off the ground. Plant seedless varieties of trees to lower the amount of available food to reduce squirrel populations.
Despite popular belief, squirrels can be excluded from bird feeders. The key to squirrel-free feeders is to respect the athletic abilities of squirrels. A gray squirrel can jump sideways 8 feet, straight up 4 feet and down 15 feet and then hang on where it lands. Fox squirrels have similar abilities and present similar challenges.
Avoid hanging bird feeders from trees. Instead, use a large-diameter metal pole, with accompanying baffle, to elevate a bird feeder at least 5 feet off the ground and 10 feet away from branches or other structures from which a squirrel could leap. Hang the bird feeder by a chain or cable from an arm of a pole with a properly placed baffle. Alternatively, metal flashing or a stovepipe can be placed on poles below platform bird feeders. Bird feeders also can be hung from a horizontal wire with plastic pipe sleeves as protection on either side.
Greased poles and sliding two-part poles usually fail. Enclose an entire birdfeeder with 2-inch wire mesh to permit small birds to feed while preventing squirrels. Using squirrel-resistant feeders, such as those with weight-activated perches, can also reduce the stealing of seed by squirrels. Capsaicin, mixed with bird seed, may be effective in repelling squirrels.
Tree squirrels also cause damage to gardens, flowers and lawns. They chew on spring-planted potted plants, bury nuts in turf or landscaped areas, dig up seeds and bulbs of garden vegetables and flowers and eat ripened fruits and grains.
Wire mesh fences topped with electrified wire or mesh enclosures may be practical for keeping squirrels out of small areas. Electrified wires aren’t recommended for use around children or pets. Little else can be done with squirrels in larger areas, other than removing the offending squirrels by cage trapping or shooting where safe and legal.
Taste repellants, such as Ro-pel and capsaicin, can be used to treat seeds, bulbs and flowers not destined for human consumption. Polybutenes are sticky materials that repel squirrels by touch, but they are only marginally effective and are messy to use.
It is ill-advised to feed squirrels. Well-fed squirrels quickly fill available nesting areas and are more likely to invade structures. In addition, the gathering of squirrels by feeding may increase the transmission of sarcoptic mange among the squirrels.
Squirrels are susceptible to parasites, including ticks, fleas, bot flies and mange mites. The latter causes a disease called sarcoptic mange that produces scabs and severe hair loss. The scabs become thick and wrinkled, giving the squirrel a startling appearance. The disease can cause death by exposure. Sarcoptic mange mites typically are species-specific so mange doesn’t ordinarily spread from squirrels to people or pets. Report to authorities any squirrel that is acting extremely aggressive or is convulsive.
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4. Coreopsis Forever
By Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator
Perennial flower gardeners really appreciate plants with an extended season of bloom. The perennial flower that immediately comes to mind when thinking of long bloom is coreopsis. Coreopsis, also called tickseed, possess daisy like flowers in various shades of yellow to dark gold to almost orange. A newcomer to the numerous coreopsis offerings is Coreopsis rosea, the only pink form. Flowering of many varieties begins in late spring and continues through most of the summer.
There are several species of Coreopsis to select from offering a range of plant heights from less than 1 foot to almost 4 feet. Although some have a sprawling habit, many are well behaved, compact plants that combine perfectly with other flowers. Most coreopsis are hardy to USDA Hardiness Zone 4. Other advantages include drought tolerance, poor soil adaptability, and durability. They perform best in full sun or light shade.
Some favorites include C. grandiflora `Sunray' and `Early Sunrise'. Both have double flowers and grow to about 2 feet in height. Thread leaf coreopsis (C. verticillata) has foliage divided into thread like segments. `Golden Showers' grows up to 2 feet tall with bright yellow flowers. `Moonbeam' is probably the most popular cultivar and with good reason. The 2 foot plant bears numerous soft yellow flowers from late June through October. `Zagreb' is a compact, upright plant with flowers in a darker shade of yellow than `Moonbeam'. C. lanceolata and its cultivars have single flowers which are up to 2 1/2 inches across. `Brown Eyes' has a maroon ring near the center of the flower. `Baby Sun' and `Baby Gold' are smaller varieties, each growing only 10 to 16 inches tall. These make excellent selections for use as edging or rock garden plants.
Coreopsis is pest resistant. Leaf spots may be a problem especially in wet years, but they usually don't affect the first bloom. Cut plants back severely after flowering and the new growth will be strong and healthy. The only disadvantage of coreopsis is the necessity of deadheading. Trim spent flowers off regularly to promote continuous production of new flowers. If not deadheaded, only naked flower stalks will remain above the foliage. Propagation is accomplished through seed, cuttings, or division. Named cultivars should be propagated vegetatively rather than through seed to ensure true identity.
Coreopsis can also be used as fresh cut flowers, especially those with long flower stems. At the end of the flowering season, allow seeds to remain for the birds to enjoy. Not many plants offer season long beauty, both indoors and out, and also provide food for our feathered friends. Coreopsis is a highly valued perennial for many garden settings.
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5. Bringing Wildflowers Closer
By Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator
When the woods and fields bloom with wildflowers in the spring, did you ever wish you could have some of those beauties in your home garden?
Well, you can! Plants and seeds of dozens of wildflowers are available from nurseries and garden centers. The key to growing them successfully is to choose those that are well adapted to the growing conditions in your yard or garden.
Most wildflowers are adapted to a fairly narrow range of soil, light and moisture conditions. Plants that grow wild in moist or boggy areas, for instance, generally won’t do well if transplanted into a dry, sunny flowerbed. Likewise meadow wildflowers probably would not thrive in deep shade.
If you plant wildflowers in a suitable location, however, they’ll flourish with very little care. They’ll often seed themselves so that, once established, they will last for years. Generally speaking, woodland wildflowers will do best in a shaded area. If your lawn isn’t shaded by trees, consider planting shade-loving plants and ferns along the north side of your house or some other building. Wildflowers that are native to meadows and roadsides are more likely to do best in a dry sunny spot, while bog or swamp plants will take hold only in a moist, poorly drained spot.
Woodland flowers available from commercial nurseries, garden centers or seed catalogs may include May-apple, trillium, Dutchman’s breeches, bloodroot, wild ginger, violets, trailing arbutus, blue phlox, wild geranium, maidenhair fern and hepatica. Those requiring moist soil and shade include cinnamon fern, lady’s slipper, spring beauty, jack-in-the-pulpit and trout lily. Ostrich fern and interrupted fern need moist soil but do well in shade or sun. Sensitive fern and lady fern need sun and moist soil.
Wildflowers adapted to sunny sites include butterfly weed, New England aster, black-eyed Susan, ox-eye daisy and bee balm. Bog plants that might do well in a soggy corner of your yard include cardinal flower, Joe-pye weed, gentains and marsh marigold.
Many times these plants are offered as wildflower seed mixtures. These mixtures may include both annual and perennial plants adapted to various parts of the country. Seeds are usually broadcast on a prepared seedbed and gently raked in or lightly sprinkled with coarse sand.
Some catalogs and garden centers also offer wildflower plants, such as trillium, Jack-in-the-pulpit, hepatica, trailing arbutus and maidenhair, lady, leather wood and ostrich ferns. Transplanting wildflowers from one part of your property to another is another possibility. Wildflowers growing in public parks or arboretums or on private property other than your own should, of course, be left where you find them.
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6. Plan Ahead To Prevent And Combat Rural House Fires
By Dave Morgan, UNL Safety Engineer
Rural residents are in a difficult situation. Unless they live next to a river, pond or lake, they won’t have a large enough water supply to fight a house fire. They must also keep in mind the distance they may be away from the nearest fire department.
Response time is affected by whether the nearest department is paid or volunteer. Volunteer firefighters must leave their home or workplace, go to the fire station and then respond with fire apparatuses. Paid departments have crews at the station 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Volunteer departments in smaller communities may have staffing shortages, especially during normal work hours. Adjacent departments can be dispatched through the mutual aid system, but they will have greater distances to travel, again increasing response time. In Nebraska, rural fire district boundaries are not always laid out to minimize response times from the primary department’s station. In some cases, an adjacent district station may be closer to a specific location.
Even if the fire department does get there in time to prevent a fire from spreading, they still have to develop a water supply to combat the fire. Some fire trucks have large capacity water tenders that carry a minimum of 1,000 gallons of water. These tenders can use a portable drop tank in which to drop their water load. Multiple tenders can then establish a water shuttle to maintain the necessary water supply to attack a rural structure fire. It’s not uncommon to pump more than 20,000 gallons of water at a major rural structure fire.
Rural residents with a pond on their property could choose to put in a dry hydrant. This allows the fire department to drop a suction line into pipe and have access to non-contaminated water. Dimensions for building a dry hydrant can be found at a local Natural Resource Conservation Service or University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension office.
Ponds also can be used as a water source, but contaminated water could damage expensive fire pumps. Also, during wet periods getting a pump truck close enough to water to get good flow could prove difficult. The soil may be soft and a 30,000-pound pump truck could easily become stuck.
Another problem facing rural fire departments is access to the farmstead or acreage structures. Non-all-weather country roads, load-limited bridges and long, unimproved driveways make it difficult or impossible for heavier apparatus to make it to the fire ground. Rural subdivisions usually have narrow minimally maintained access streets that cannot support the weight of heavier fire apparatus.
It only takes about 10 minutes for a fire to spread across a home, so rural residents need to know when to get out. A fire fighting crew can get to a rural home only so fast. A small fire can be put out with a dry chemical fire extinguisher, but if the fire is too big to contain, get out of the home.
To prevent a fire, make sure all heat-producing appliances are unplugged when no one is at home. This includes space heaters, electric blankets and coffee pots. Electric wall clocks sometimes provide the ignition source for house fires too. Carbon monoxide detectors are good to have, but be sure to have smoke detectors on all levels of a home that have sleeping spaces. Smoke and heat detectors need to be available and checked regularly. Make sure every family member knows a primary and secondary escape route for each room in the home.
Fires can affect rural residents in unconventional ways as well. Insurance companies give ratings based on the threat of a fire and rural homes, which usually are distant from fire departments and suppression-capacity water sources, have a rating of 10. This is the worst rating possible, and as a result, insurance premiums will be higher.
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7. Dealing With Skunks
By Stephen Vantassel, UNL WildlifeDdamage Project Coordinator; Scott Hygnstrom, UNL Extension Wildlife Specialist; Dennis Ferraro, UNL Extension Educator
Two species of skunks reside in Nebraska, the eastern striped skunk (Mephitis mephitis) and the eastern spotted skunk (Spilogale putorius). The spotted skunk is sometimes called a “civet cat” because of its similarity to the Old World civet, but it is not related to either true civets or cats.
Striped skunks are found throughout Nebraska in agricultural areas, woodlands, and urban areas. They prefer to den in sheltered areas under lumber piles, stumps, decks, and porches located near waterways, hayfields, and pastures where food may be found. Entrances are typically 3 to 4 inches in diameter with little to no grass growing around the opening. Don’t assume den sites will smell “skunky.” Skunks do not emit the odor unless they spray.
Learn more . . .
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8. Pasture Poultry Turning Grass into Profits
By Jessica Jones, UNL Extension Educator
Pasture poultry is a niche market that capitalizes on consumer demand for natural, humane and environmentally sound production practices. Consumers demanding this type of product are generally willing to pay more since many consider it to be healthier and tastier. Pasture poultry production can be an attractive enterprise to small farmers and acreage owners due to: its low capital investment and labor input, ability to start small and grow, strong demand, and potential extra income.
Being raised primarily on pasture characterizes a pasture or “free range” poultry production system. In a pasture poultry system the birds supplement the grain fed by foraging for up to 20 percent of their intake. In this system the birds are moved frequently to fresh pastures.
Many management alternatives are available to pasture poultry producers and include, portable housing and pasture pens. Portable housing would be small coops surrounded by pasture that allow birds to day range and forage on as much grass as they desire. Pasture pens would include keeping birds in “chicken tractors”, low, wide, bottomless cages that are moved to a new spot of fresh pasture at least once a day. These cages are commonly 10’ by 12’ by 2’ and are moved by sliding along the ground. When grown commercially, each pen houses 75 to 100, three to four week old meat chickens. At eight to fourteen weeks the chickens are processed and sold.
Pasture poultry can be part of an integrated animal production system. This type of system focuses not just on the product produced, but also the services provided by the animals. For example poultry may provide: fertilization, tillage, and insect and weed control. Commonly in this type of system various species of domestic animals are raised together to complement each other. This type of system benefits animal health; by breaking disease cycles that can occur when the same species occupies the same site all of the time.
Before beginning a pasture poultry enterprise one should consider a number of factors. First, do I have a customer base to sell the product to? Two methods of marketing include farmer’s markets or direct sales. Second, do I have the time and dedication? Even at the small scale, the operator is tied down by the need to feed, water, and move cages daily. Finally, do I have the facilities to process the number of birds produced? According to the Nebraska State Department of Agriculture, “Poultry normally is processed under USDA inspection. However, there is an exemption that allows individuals to process poultry they have raised and sell them through commercial channels.” Contact the State Department of Agriculture for further information regarding processing and inspection.
One resource to assist one in getting started is, The National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service (http://attra.ncat.org). They have publications addressing all aspects of pasture poultry production.
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9. Dealing with Unwanted Horses in Nebraska
By Kathy Anderson, UNL Extension Horse Specialist
Horses are amazing athletes and wonderful companions, but are a significant investment of both time and money. In 2005, the American Horse Council estimated there were 9.2 million horses in the United States and it is estimated that 1 to 1.5% of those horses are unwanted, or roughly 92,000 to 138,000 annually. This estimation is based on previous numbers of horses that have been sent to slaughter annually, but the total number of unwanted horses is likely greater than this estimate (American Horse Council, 2005).
Why do horses become unwanted? With the dwindling economy and soaring prices of hay and fuel, the cost of buying a horse has decreased. However, the costs and responsibilities associated with owning a horse have not decreased, but increased. Owning a horse means that you are the advocate (and responsible) for that animals’ health, safety, and training. Horses must be provided with:
- food of sufficient quantity and quality to allow for normal growth or maintenance
- clean, potable water in sufficient quantity
- shelter from adverse weather conditions
- a clean environment and enough space for periodic exercise
- must have their hooves properly trimmed to prevent lameness
- must be transported safely
Recent estimates put owning one healthy horse at just under $2,300 a year (including basic care costs associated with vaccinations, deworming, hoof care, nutrition, and shelter).
Unfortunately, horses do get sick, and become lame, become elderly, or have career ending injuries. Also, children (and adults) become disinterested or move away from home, divorce, or job loss may affect an owner’s financial resources. Recently, the costs of owning a horse has continued to rise, while individual or family incomes have remained stagnant or declined. The housing and mortgage crisis have also exacerbated the problem of unwanted horses.
The goal of this factsheet is to educate horse owners on options for unwanted horses. This factsheet will cover humane options for living horses and legal options for carcass disposal.
Options for Horses
1. Market Your Horse Privately. Be creative when advertising your horse. Consider various marketing approaches, including advertising on or with:
- Websites
- Riding stable and barns
- Feed and tack stores
- Local and regional horse magazines and publications
- Local paper
- Veterinarians and farriers
- 4-H, Pony Club, and other Breed Organizations
- Local horse shows and events
- Equine Therapy programs
- Horse Rescues
- Local Horse Trainers
Actually selling (or giving away) your horse may take time, so be prepared to re-evaluate the price you are asking and remain vigilant. Selling your horse privately also gives you some short-term control over who purchases your horse, where it will reside, and what activities it will be participating in.
2. Horse Rescues. If you are unable to sell or care for your horse, a horse rescue is an option. There is a real cost associated with the rescue caring for your horse and the rescue facility may not be able to accommodate your request based on physical room, the ability to feed the horse, or finances. Below is a list of equine rescue facilities in Nebraska which are registered with the “Unwanted Horse Coalition”. This is not an endorsement of the listed rescues by the University of Nebraska, but is meant to provide owners of unwanted horses some options.
3. Sale Barns. Although sale barns provide an outlet for horse sales, owners have little control over the buyers, where the horse will go, or the price. If a quick sale is necessary, a sale barn is a legitimate option. Sale barns usually charge a fee for selling (and advertising) your horse, can have deadlines for consignments, and may require a negative Coggins and/or a health certificate. Before consigning your horse to a sale barn, make sure you meet and understand the barn’s requirements for consignment and understanding that you will have little control over the sale of your horse.
4. Euthanasia. This is probably the hardest decision a horse owner will need to make, but it is a better alternative than neglect or prolonged suffering. When euthanasia is administered by a veterinarian, it can be humane.
According to the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA), there are three approved methods for the euthanasia of horses: a chemical euthanasia, with pentobarbital or a pentobarbital combination (euthanasia solution); gunshot; and penetrating captive bolt.
Chemical euthanasia is the most humane choice for horses, and is preferred by most veterinarians and horse owners, but is the most expensive form of euthanasia. This procedure requires injection of euthanasia solution into the horse’s vein. Euthanasia solution is a controlled drug and must be administered by a veterinarian. Carcasses of horses euthanatized chemically can potentially contaminate the environment, and pose a significant risk of poisoning for prey species (especially birds) unless they are disposed of, or protected from, predation in a proper and immediate manner (see Burial below).
Gunshot and the penetrating captive bolt are other approved physical methods of euthanasia. When used in the correct manner, they induce death more rapidly than chemical euthanasia. They produce death in the same way, by disrupting the brain and causing loss of consciousness and subsequent death. Euthanasia by gunshot may pose an inherent risk for other animals and humans, and should only be preformed by someone skilled in the method, and in a safe environment.
The penetrating captive bolt method of euthanasia is safer than gunshot euthanasia because it does not release a projectile (e.g., bullet). There are two types of captive bolt: penetrating and non-penetrating. The penetrating captive bolt induces death by firing a rod into the brain. The non-penetrating captive bolt causes a severe concussion that stuns the animal but does not kill it. The non-penetrating captive bolt is not considered a humane method of euthanasia.
Gunshot and penetrating captive bolt euthanasia are less expensive than chemical euthanasia and do not present the risks of environmental contamination or animal poisoning. These techniques are considered aesthetically displeasing to many horse owners, but they are effective.
Legal Options for Carcass Disposal
Nebraska horse owners do have some options for disposal of an equine carcass. The State of Nebraska regulates these options and involves the Nebraska Department of Agriculture (NDA), Nebraska Department of Environmental Quality (NDEQ), and Natural Resources (DNR). The legal options for horse carcasses in Nebraska are burial, composting, and rendering. There is a state-wide, non-equine specific statute on carcass disposal that states “within 36 hours after knowledge of the carcass, it must either be 1) buried at least 4 feet deep; 2) burned completely on the premises; or 3) disposed of to a rendering facility.
1. Burial. Burial can be the most cost effective way of disposing of a carcass (if you own equipment to prepare the site), but may not be an available option in all areas of the state. The NDEQ states that the carcass must have 5 feet separation from the bottom of the burial pit to ground water, 4 feet (approximately) of compact cover soil, 300 feet from streams, creeks, ponds, and lakes. These regulations are in place to prevent contamination of groundwater. Burial should include a soil cover of sufficient depth to prevent exposure of the carcass by burrowing, digging, or scavenging animals (and other vectors of disease) and erosion. During winter months (when the ground is frozen), breaking the ground for burial may be difficult or not an option until spring. Furthermore, individuals must check city and county regulations as they may vary considerably.
2. Composting. Composting can be an environmental friendly option when dealing with an equine carcass. Compost does need to be managed (adding water, nutrients, and rotating the pile when needed), and is considered labor intensive by many. In Nebraska, only carcasses less than 600 pounds may be composted.
Equine carcass composting research conducted at West Texas A&M University determined that a mix of 50/50 cattle manure and hay waste or a 50/50 mix of stall waste (horse manure and bedding) worked better as compost compared to 100% stall waste when composting equine carcasses. To compost a single carcass, researchers placed it on a bed of chopped straw before adding other materials. To jumpstart the process, it is advised to add pre-composted materials (because they already contain the needed bacteria) before adding the carcass.
The key to any compost pile is the moisture and nutrient content. A compost pile should be about 50% moisture. Excessive moisture can cause compost to leach harmful chemicals into the soil, and it can displace oxygen within the pile, which creates an anaerobic condition that produces an unpleasant odor and phytotoxic (toxic to plants) substances. The temperature of the compost pile can be a good indicator to determine if the process is working properly. Temperatures in the pile can reach 131˚F-155˚F within 24 hours and should remain there for several weeks to a month. These sustained high temperatures will also destroy most pathogens and weed seeds. It is also recommended to turn the pile every three months. After three months, only a few large bones should remain. At six months, no identifiable pieces should remain. The entire process from start to finish will take about seven to nine months.
3. Cremation (Incineration). Cremation can allow horse owners to retain a physical part of their horse, but can be expensive. A burn pile on the property cannot attain a complete incineration and is not a legal carcass disposal option. Generally, incineration is completed by a state-licensed facility under strict emissions and temperature guidelines.
The air curtain incineration process requires an excavation typically 10-12 feet deep and as long as the manifold on the incinerator. This process directs high velocity air across and downward into a pit creating a turbulent curtain of air that reaches a temperature of approximately 1832˚F. Please contact the Department of Environmental Quality at 402-471-2186 if this method of carcass disposal is to be used.
4. Rendering. Rendering is an option for carcass disposal, but does cost between $150 to 200 per pickup. There are a few options in Nebraska that take equine (large animal) carcasses. Contact your local veterinary for rendering services provided to them. This is not an endorsement of the listed rendering services by the University of Nebraska, but is meant to provide horse owners with legal carcass disposal options.
National Bi-Product
402-291-8800 |
Bob’s Farm Service
800-424-6739
Wahoo, NE
$100-175 depending on distance
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Decisions on how to deal with unwanted horses is a concern for most horse owners as at some time horses must be sold or put down. Educated and humane decisions must be made to avoid unnecessary neglect and abuse of horses. More information on dealing with unwanted horses and “responsible horse care can be found at the “Unwanted Horse Coalition” web site at: http://www.unwantedhorsecoalition.org/.
Sources:
Nebraska Department of Environmental Quality, Environmental Guidance Document, April, 2007.
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10. Summer Care of Strawberry Beds
By Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator
June-bearing strawberries are most productive when grown in 2-foot-wide matted rows. If the strawberry bed is a solid mat of plants, renovate the planting by creating 8 inch-wide plant strips with a rototiller or hoe. These 8-inch-wide strips should be about 3 to 4 feet apart. Runners will form and the new plants will create a 2-foot-wide matted row by the end of the summer.
June-bearing strawberries grown in rows should also be renovated. Simply narrow the rows to 8-inch wide strips by removing the older plants and keeping the younger ones. Some strawberry cultivars are extremely vigorous and produce runners beyond the 2-foot matted rows. These runners should be placed back within the allotted row or removed to prevent the plant from becoming a solid mat of plants.
Fertilize with approximately 5 pounds of 10-10-10 or similar analysis fertilizer per 100 feet of row to encourage plant growth and development. Since strawberry plants have a shallow root system, water regularly during hot, dry periods. Regular watering helps assure good berry numbers and size next spring.
Control weeds throughout the summer by cultivating or hand weeding. A four inch layer of straw may be applied at renovation to help control annual grasses and some broadleaf weeds. Well-maintained strawberry plantings that are renovated annually may remain productive for 4 or 5 years. Poorly managed beds may be productive for only 1 or 2 years.
Everbearing and day-neutral strawberries should not be renovated like June-bearers. Their growth and fruiting characteristics dictate different cultural practices.
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11. Seedheads – Good or Bad?
By Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator
Seedhead development in home lawns has raised some interesting questions. Two of the most interesting questions have been: "What causes grass to develop so many seedheads?" and "Can a person allow the seedheads to develop and mature to overseed a thin lawn?"
Seedhead production naturally occurs in cool-season turfgrasses, such as Kentucky bluegrass, under long-days and moderately cool temperatures. Long-day refers to 12 hours or more of daylight. Moderately cool temperatures are average daily temperatures of 65 to 75 degrees. The moderately cool temperatures have lead to seedhead development in lawns. The dry weather in many areas of the state has accentuated seedhead development. Seedhead development is also greater in those lawns that receive little or no nitrogen fertilizer. The presence of high nitrogen levels delays plant maturation and reduces seedhead formation.
When seedheads are allowed to mature in lawns, they do so at the expense of the lawn's health. The production of seeds requires carbohydrates. These carbohydrates are derived from other plant parts, such as the crown and rhizome. These two plant parts are important in the recovery from summer dormancy. The turfgrass plant regenerates new plants from buds on the crown and from nodes on the rhizome. This regeneration is important when the plant is injured by drought, high-temperature stress, insects, or any other type of injury to the turf. Therefore, if the plant utilizes most of the carbohydrates for seed production, it will be done at the expense of the crown and rhizome and ultimately the health of the plant.
Lawns that have been allowed to grow tall and form seedheads should be mowed as soon as possible. Set the blade as high as possible, then gradually reduce the height of the grass in later mowings. The recommended cutting height for bluegrass lawns during the summer months is approximately 3 inches.
If standard lawn maintenance practices, such as fertilization and proper mowing, don't improve the quality of the turf, home gardeners should renovate their lawn in late summer or early fall. Also, the factors responsible for the thinning of the lawn should be identified and corrected prior to renovation.
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12. Weekend Project - Build a Compost Pile
By John Fech, UNL Extension Educator
Leaves are probably dropping all over your yard, and blowing in from the neighbors. What can be done with all these leaves? Several options are available, including composting. You can bag them up and set them on the curb for your recycler to take care of, or mow them frequently and let the chopped leaves filter into the lawn. Either is ok, but in some heavily treed neighborhoods, those methods probably will not be enough to handle the load. Additionally, a compost pile is the very thing most folks need to improve the soils in Nebraska.
So, let's get busy. You can make a compost pile out of many building materials. Concrete block, snow fence, wood pallets, chicken wire, or hardware cloth can be used. The basic theme is to have three compartments in the unit. You'll need one to put fresh leaves, kitchen scraps, dead houseplants, coffee grounds and grass clippings into, one that has been cooking for awhile, and one for finished compost. Make these compartments side by side for easy turning and shifting of materials from one to another.
When you start composting, mix a couple of scoops of garden soil into the fresh materials to aid in decomposition. This will provide the necessary microorganisms to start decomposing the leaves. Strive for a variety of materials in the first bin. Use half "greens" and half "browns" in the bin. "Greens" are fresh grass clippings, carrot peelings, wilted cabbage, broccoli trimmings, grapefruit halves, wilted vegetable vines and dying houseplants. "Browns" are sawdust, fallen leaves from trees, wood chips, stump grindings, small sticks, and dead plants.
Never, put meat scraps or oil products into the compost pile. These will not be easily composted, and will likely attract mice and other rodents to the pile. Turn the compost pile weekly for best results. Good results can still be achieved with less frequent turning. When finished, it can be added to the soil and increase the soil fertility and structure, resulting in healthier plants.
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UPCOMING EVENTS
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13. Beekeeping Value-Added Products Workshop, June 12-13
The workshop includes both classroom and hands-on sessions. Friday, June 12 creamed and comb honey production and marketing will be discussed. Saturday June 13 features an in-depth exploration of meadmaking. Pre-registration is required and participation is limited- so register early!
Date: June 12-13, 2009
Time: Programs begin at 8:30 a.m. each day
Location: UNL Agricultural Research and Development Center, 1071 County Road G, Ithaca, NE
Cost & Registrastion:
Registration for the two-day workshop is $45 per person (includes two meals and training materials). One-day registration is $25. On-site registration is not available, and pre-registration is required by June 5, 2009. Registration is limited, and early registration is encouraged to guarantee participation.
Note: Participants in the comb honey program should bring their own protective gear.
Program Brochure
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14. Great Nebraska Tractor Ride, June 19-20
Participate in the KTIC/1078.9 Great Nebraska Tractor Ride, June 19-20. This year's route takes riders through the beautiful countryside from Fremont to Ashland, Nebraska and back again.
The first day of the tractor ride will be approximately 86 miles and the second day will be approximately 67 miles. Great food, prizes and fun are the order of the day.
More information
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15. Insect Photography Workshop, June 27
On Saturday, June 27, 9 a.m. - 3:00 p.m., UNL Extension will present an Insect Photography Workshop at Spring Creek Prairie Audubon Center, 11700 SW 100 Street, Denton. Jim Kalisch, extension associate from UNL Department of Entomology, will share his knowledge about close-up photography. Jim, a regular on UNL's Backyard Farmer program, is an accomplished insect photographer.
Topics covered will include camera features/settings, basics of close-up photography, lighting, getting insects to cooperate and much more. In a feature we call, “How Did You Get That Shot?,” we will also examine some of the great photos taken by persons who attended last year’s workshop.
The educational program will take place in the morning. In the afternoon, attendees will be able to roam the prairie searching for that special photo. If you decide to stay, please bring a sack lunch; we will provide beverages.
Cost of this workshop is $30/person or $40/couple who can share a reference book. If you are interested in this workshop, please return the registration form at: http://lancaster.unl.edu/pest/
It is expected attendees will have a basic understanding of photographic principles, but need help taking good close-up photos. Ages 14-18 must be accompanied by a parent/guardian.
Questions? Contact Barb Ogg, (402-441-7180/bogg1@unl.edu) for more information.
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16. Multi-State Grape Growers Field Day, July 13
Join us for this year's Multi-State Grape Growers Field Day in Nebraska City, NE. Watch for more details at the UNL Viticulture Program web site coming later this summer.
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17. From Recipe to Reality Seminar, August 15
The Food Processing Center is offering a one-day seminar for all individuals interested in exploring the idea of starting a food manufacturing business. Pre-registration is required and space is limited. Registration deadline: December 19.
Additional program dates for 2009 in Lincoln, NE - August 15, October 3.
Contact Jill Gifford at (402) 472-2819 or jgifford1@unl.edu for an information packet. For more information and to register for the program, visit the UNL Food Processing's Food Entrepreneur web site.
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18. Understanding and Appreciating Fine Wines, October 30
Join us for a wine tasting event and applied wine evaluation learning experience on October 30, at Lincoln's Downtown Holiday Inn. Watch for more details at the UNL Viticulture Program web site coming later this summer.
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19. "Trick or Treat": Fall Grape Growers Workshop, October 31
The Treat: Vineyard floor management and weed management will be the featured topics for the Fall Workshop to be held a the Downtown Lincoln Holiday Inn on Saturday, October 31, 2009.
Tricks of the trade will be presened by experts on weed management and vineyard floor management, such as
- How do you controlt hose pesky goblins (weeds) that steal water and nutrients?
- What are the pros and cons of clean cultivation versus cover crops for row middles?
Watch for more details at the UNL Viticulture Program web site coming later this summer.
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