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1. Working Toward Safe Drinking
Water is Your Responsibility
By Sharon Skipton, Extension Educator
The majority of acreage residents rely on groundwater
for drinking water. Although groundwater is protected
by layers of rock and soil, we now know that groundwater
is vulnerable to many types of contamination. Contaminants
can enter groundwater from fertilizers and pesticides,
sewage, animal waste, fuel storage tanks, and many other
sources. Even distant contamination can have negative
impacts on a water supply given sufficient time.
Once groundwater becomes contaminated, clean-up is difficult
(if not impossible) and expensive. In some cases, groundwater
contamination has been so severe that the well must be
abandoned. At the same time, developing new sources of
groundwater for drinking water supplies is very expensive.
It is clear that good management of the land area around
a water supply well to prevent groundwater contamination
presents the best opportunity to preserve drinking water
resources and save money.
Private well users are encouraged to participate in voluntary
wellhead protection using the Nebraska Farm*A*Syst
materials available through the University of Nebraska
Cooperative Extension. Remember that an ounce of prevention
is worth a pound of cure, and when it comes to your drinking
water supply, it is your responsibility to contribute
toward the ounce of prevention.
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2. Testing Water In Home Wells
By Paul Hay and Sharon Skipton, Extension Educators
Hardly a day goes by without questions about water well
testing and drinking water quality. The following are
some of the more common questions and concerns.
What test(s) should be run on my private well water? There
is no single test to determine the safety of drinking
water. Public water supplies are tested and regulated
for over 90 potential contaminants. It would be very costly
- and in most cases unnecessary - to test private well
water for them all. One concern for private well water
is bacteria. Bacteria which inhabit the human gut are
called coliform bacteria. You should test private well
water for bacteria, and test results for coliform bacteria
should be ZERO. For more information on bacteria, see
the publication Drinking
Water: Bacteria.
Nitrate is a second concern for private well water. You
should test for nitrate, and test results at or below
10 parts per million (ppm) or 10 milligrams per liter
(mg/l) are desirable. This is the maximum contaminant
level (MCL) set by federal drinking water standards. For
more information on nitrate, see the publications Drinking
Water: Nitrate-Nitrogen and Drinking
Water: Nitrate and Methemoglobinemia.
You should test for other substances when specific contamination
is suspected. For more information see the publications:
Drinking
Water: Hard Water
Drinking
Water: Iron and Manganese
Drinking
Water: Sulfates and Hydrogen Sulfide
Drinking
Water: Man-made Chemicals
Drinking
Water: Lead
Drinking
Water: Copper
Drinking
Water: Fluoride
How often should I test the water from our private well?
Water in public water systems is tested daily, monthly,
or quarterly depending on the contaminant being checked
and the size of the town. University of Nebraska Cooperative
Extension publications recommend yearly tests for bacteria
and nitrate levels in private wells. Tests for pH, hardness,
fluoride or specific minerals like iron, manganese, lead,
copper, etc. should be useful for a number of years or
until significant changes have occurred in the well or
water delivery system. For more information on water testing,
see the publication
Testing for Drinking Water Quality.
You must get a sterile test bottle from an approved laboratory
and follow sample collection procedures exactly for accurate
sampling. Your local extension office may have a supply
of water test bottles.
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3. Bottled Water or Tap Water:
Which is Safer?
By Sharon Skipton, Extension Educator
Which is safer, bottled drinking water or tap water?
Neither bottled drinking water or tap water are pure.
All contain dissolved substances, and some substances
are potentially harmful. The maximum levels allowed
for potentially harmful contaminants in public tap water
are regulated by the Environmental Protection Agency.
The maximum levels allowed for potentially harmful contaminants
in imported bottled water, and domestic bottled water
sold through interstate commerce is regulated by the
Food and Drug Administration. With a few differences,
the maximum level allowed for various contaminants by
EPA and FDA are essentially the same. All public tap
water, imported bottled water, and bottled water sold
through interstate commerce will be safe for drinking
and cooking if in full compliance with regulations.
However, FDA rules for bottled water don't apply if
water is packaged and sold in the same state. The quality
of water packaged and sold in the same state may be
regulated by an agency in that state or may be unregulated.
They are unregulated in roughly one out of five states.
Water packaged and sold in Nebraska is regulated by
the Nebraska Department of Agriculture and must meet
FDA bottled water standards.
And what about private tap water? In Nebraska, as in
most states, tap water from a private water supply is
not regulated. There are no requirements to test for
potentially harmful contaminants. As a result, the burden
is on the private water supply owner and user to determine
if the water is safe to drink.
For additional information, see "Drinking
Water: Bottled or Tap?".
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4. Storing an Emergency Drinking
Water Supply
By Sharon Skipton, Extension Educator
Some situations can reduce the availability of safe drinking
water on an acreage. These include earthquakes, tornadoes,
floods, winter storms, and power outages. Interruptions
may last only a few hours or up to several days. In these
situations, an emergency water supply can be desirable.
One option is to purchase bottled drinking or distilled
water. Another option is to safely prepare and store water
from your daily drinking and cooking supply.
Most people need to drink at least two quarts of water
each day. Hot weather conditions can double the amount
needed, and children, nursing women and ill people also
will need more. In addition to drinking water, supplies
for food preparation and hygiene are needed. In general,
store at least one gallon of water per person, per day
of expected need.
Store water in food-grade plastic or glass containers
with tight-fitting screw-on caps. Wash the containers
and lids thoroughly with hot tap water and dish detergent.
Rinse thoroughly with hot tap water. Store only potable
water (bacteria and pathogen free). To treat water for
storage, use liquid household chlorine bleach that contains
5.25 percent sodium hypochlorite. Do not use bleach with
soaps or scents added. Add the bleach to containers with
water, using a clean, uncontaminated medicine dropper.
Add 8 drops of bleach per gallon of water. Stir the water
and allow it to stand for 30 minutes. You should be able
to smell chlorine after the 30 minute waiting period.
If you cannot, add another dose and let the water stand
another 15 minutes. Cap containers and label each with
the contents and preparation date. Store containers in
a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Containers
can be stored in a freezer if 2 to 3 inches of air space
was left in the top of the container and thin-walled glass
containers were not used. For best quality, replace stored
water every six months.
For more information see the NebFact Storing
an Emergency Drinking Water Supply.
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5. Water Use and Conservation
By Sharon Skipton, Extension Educator
Hot dry weather has put a strain on water supplies. Now,
more than ever, it is important to use water wisely. The
first step in understanding how to conserve water in your
home is to know where water is used. Most people in the
U.S. use 50 to 80 gallons of water indoors per person
each day. Three-quarters of all the water used indoors
is used in the bathroom. Therefore, the bathroom is where
indoor water conservation efforts should start.
Leaks
Leaks in your water system can account for 14% to 25%
of all indoor water use. A leaky faucet can waste 10 to
20 gallons or more per day and may damage the house structure.
Repairing a faucet is usually as simple as changing an
inexpensive washer or O-ring.
About 20% of toilets leak. Leaky toilets can waste many
gallons per day. To find out if your toilet leaks, put
a little food coloring in the tank as long as it will
not stain your toilet bowl. If after 15 minutes and without
flushing, color appears in the bowl, you have a leak that
should be repaired.
To check for more leaks, shut off all the faucets and
water using equipment and then take a reading from the
water meter. After 30 minutes, reread the meter. If the
dial moved, you have a leak.
Toilets
Avoid using the toilet for a trash basket. Instead, put
facial tissues and other trash in the wastebasket for
disposal. Reduce the flush volume by adjusting the float
rod downward or by purchasing special devices for the
tank that reduce water usage.
Showers
A quick shower usually draws less water than a bath. Turn
the shower off while shampooing hair, soaping body, or
shaving legs. A cut-off valve on the shower head can be
installed to temporarily stop water without altering the
temperature. Add a flow control device on your shower
arm or head. They reduce the flow rate but most will maintain
the velocity of the spray.
Faucets
Turn off the faucet while brushing teeth or shaving. Install
a flow control device on your faucets. Insulate your hot
water pipes to reduce the amount of water ran to get hot
water.
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6. Conserve Water and Help Your
Septic System at the Same Time!
By Jan Hygnstrom, Extension Project Manager
During dry years, we often think of conserving water
to decrease the demand on our wells. Conserving water
will help protect your septic system as well. It reduces
the amount of wastewater that needs to be treated, and
spreading out water flow to the septic tank over an
extended period of time will extend the life of a system.
Wastewater should remain in the septic tank long enough,
at least 24 hours, for heavy solids to settle out forming
sludge and light solids to float to the top forming
scum. Except immediately after pumping, a septic tank
contains wastewater to its full capacity at all times.
As a gallon of wastewater flows from the house into
the tank, a gallon of effluent flows out of the tank
into the drainfield. If wastewater moves in and out
of the tank too rapidly due to constant flow for extended
periods of time or heavy water flow at any given time,
solids remain suspended in the wastewater and move with
the effluent out of the tank and into the drainfield.
Solids can clog a drainfield, decreasing its ability
to treat wastewater. This can lead to costly repairs
or even replacement.
Conserve water and spread out water usage by following
these suggestions:
Wash one or two loads of laundry a day, rather than
three or more loads in one day.
Install low flow water fixtures, low volume toilets,
and low water-use appliances when replacing them.
Check for and repair leaky faucets and other leaks
in the plumbing system.
Take short showers.
Turn off the faucet while brushing teeth or shaving.
If you use a water softening unit, select one with demand
initiated regeneration in which the need to regenerate
is determined by measuring gallons of water used, measuring
the change in electroconductivity of the resin bed,
or sensing a change in water hardness.
For additional information on your septic system and
how to maintain it see the following publications:
Residential
On-site Wastewater Treatment: Septic Tank Design and Installation
Residential
On-site Wastewater Treatment: Traditional Drainfield Systems
for Effluent Treatment
Residential
On-site Wastewater Treatment: Septic System and Drainfield
Maintenance
Note that these water conservation methods are appropriate
for those on septic systems. People whose wastewater is
treated by a lagoon system may have the problem of generating
enough wastewater to keep the lagoon filled to the recommended
2 to 5 foot depth.
For additional information on lagoons see the following
publications:
Residential
On-site Wastewater Treatment: Lagoon Design and Construction
Residential
On-site Wastewater Treatment: Lagoon Maintenance
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7. U.S. Laundering Practices
Can Strain A Septic System
By Sharon Skipton, Extension Educator
Americans own more clothes and change them more frequently
than other cultures. We consider an item dirty after one
wearing. In fact, in the U.S., one-quarter ton of dirty
clothing is generated by one person each year. This means
more washing, which equals more water use. Guidelines
for septic system maintenance stress the importance of
conserving water and spreading out water usage. Doing
otherwise will strain the system, and could contribute
to system failure.
Add to this fact that our laundry habits are quite different
from our European counterparts. The average U.S. washing
machine uses 16 gallons of water, while the average European
machine uses four gallons. While European machines use
less water, they have a longer wash cycle - 90 minutes,
as opposed to U.S. machines, which average 35-minutes
per cycle. These differences are attributed to American
consumers' preference for top-loading machines. In Europe,
front loaders are the washing machine of choice, while
in the U.S., they currently account for only 10 percent
of new machine sales and two percent of all machines.
What can you do if you use a septic system? Wash no more
than one, two if necessary, loads of laundry per day.
Use chlorine bleach in the wash cycle no more than once
per week. Consider a front-loading washing machine when
your current machine needs to be replaced.
Portions of this article were taken from "Cleanliness
Facts", Soap and Detergent Association, September/October,
2002.
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8. What to Plant During Drought?
By Don Janssen, Extension Educator
With the threat of drought looming on the horizon many
people are considering not planting anything this year.
The future is hard to see and many things can happen.
So plant, but be wise in selecting plants tolerant of
drought or low water supplies. There are many native and
adapted plants for Nebraska. Below are several publications
to help you make wise decisions for your plant selections
this year.
Selecting
a Ground Cover
Wildflowers
for the Home Landscape
Landscape
Sustainability
Perennials
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9. Watering The Landscape
By Kelly Feehan, Extension Educator
Proper lawn and landscape irrigation to conserve water
and promote plant health is always important. During
a drought year, efficient irrigation is even more critical.
It's not uncommon for landscapes to be overwatered leading
to weakened root systems, poor plant health and overuse
of water. Here are some basic rules of thumb for efficient
irrigation for plant health and water conservation.
1. Water deeply to encourage a more extensive root system.
At each irrigation, wet the soil about six to twelve
inches for turfgrass and perennials and about 12 to18
inches for trees and shrubs. Use a screwdriver or soil
probe to determine depth of watering after irrigation.
2. Water infrequently to prevent overwatering and weak
roots. Check the soil before each irrigation and do
not water until the soil begins to dry out and plants
are beginning to show signs of needing moisture. Frequency
of watering varies in each landscape and depends on
soil type, amount of shade in the landscape, plant species,
fertilization and other care practices.
3. To reduce run-off, apply water at a rate the soil
can absorb. Consider core aerating lawns to relieve
soil compaction and adding organic matter to planting
beds to improve water infiltration.
4. To reduce water loss from wind and evaporation, water
early in the morning and irrigate near the base of plants
with drip irrigation or soaker hoses in place of sprinkler
irrigation.
5. Use a four inch layer of mulch over the roots of
trees and shrubs and a two inch layer over perennials
to conserve water. Keep the mulch away from plant stems.
6. In planting beds, select plants with similar water
needs; then water the beds to meet the needs of the
plants. If ornamental beds are watered at the same time
as Kentucky bluegrass lawns, the ornamentals are likely
being overwatered. Use zone watering to prevent this.
7. Do not fertilize plants with excess nitrogen. Nitrogen
results in rapid and succulent leafy growth that requires
more water.
8. Select plants considered to be heat and drought tolerant.
Keep in mind these plants still need some irrigation,
especially during establishment, and a drought year
may not be the best time to renovate a landscape.
9. If water use is restricted during a drought, choose
to water plants that are more difficult and expensive
to establish such as trees. While we may not want to
lose perennials or areas of turf, these are less expensive
and take less time to establish.
To determine if you are watering correctly and not overwatering,
refer to the following Nebguides:
Watering
Nebraska Landscapes: When and How Much?
Evaluating
Your Landscape Irrigation System
Checking
the Performance of Your Landscape Irrigation System
Conserving
Water in the Landscape
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10. Graywater Not For Irrigation
By Sharon Skipton, Extension Educator
When it stays hot and dry for a long period of time, some
people think about using graywater for irrigation of turf
and ornamentals. It is not legal in Nebraska. In Nebraska,
wastewater is defined as the liquid and waterborne wastes
that result from ordinary living processes. Wastewater
consists of blackwater (from toilets, urinals, and kitchen
drains) and graywater (from baths, lavatories, laundries,
and sinks other than kitchen sinks). All wastewater, both
blackwater and graywater, must be collected and treated.
It cannot be discharged to the land surface (irrigation),
groundwater, or surface water without special Department
of Environmental Quality approval.
Graywater is not necessarily pathogen free, and can contain
disease-causing bacteria and viruses. In states where
graywater is used for irrigation, it must be treated and
disinfected first. Obviously, protecting human health
is of highest priority. Thus, graywater can't be used
for irrigation here.
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11. Everyone Lives In A Watershed
By Steve Tonn, Extension Educator
What is a watershed? It's the land that water flows
across or under on its way to a stream, lake or river.
The landscape is made up of many interconnected basins,
or watersheds. Within each watershed, all water runs
to the lowest point-a stream, river or lake. On its
way, water travels over the surface and across farm
fields, forestland, suburban lawns, and city streets,
or it seeps into the soil and travels as groundwater.
Large watersheds like those for the Platte River or
Missouri River are made up of many smaller watersheds.
Watersheds come in all different shapes and sizes and
have many different features. Watersheds can have large
hills or be nearly flat. They can have farmland, rangeland,
small towns, and big cities. Parts of your watershed
can be so rough, rocky, or marshy that they're suited
only for certain trees, plants and wildlife.
Everyone lives in a watershed. You and everyone in your
watershed are part of the watershed community. The animals,
birds, and fish are too. You influence what happens
in your watershed, good or bad, by how you treat the
natural resources-soil, water, air, plants, and animals.
What happens in your small watershed also affects the
larger watershed downstream.
It is a maxim of watershed science that watershed residents
are personally responsible for contributing some of
the pollutants that run off their lawns, farms, acreages,
streets and roads. Runoff pollution is the major cause
of water quality problems in our watersheds.
To learn about ways to prevent runoff pollution from
your farm or acreage, refer to the following Farm*A*Syst
publications. Farm*A*Syst is a voluntary environmental
risk assessment program for the farm, acreage and home.
Farm*A*Syst
Stormwater Management at Residential Sites Worksheet
Farm*A*Syts
Stormwater Management at Residential Sites Fact Sheet
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