1. Fire On The Acreage
Fire has always been part of the rural landscape. If you choose to live within that rural landscape, it pays to know how to make your acreage as fire resistant as possible. Using prescribed fire as a tool is often another important part of rural living. Both of these "burning issues" will be discussed in "Fire on the Acreage." Presented by Casey McCoy, Wildland Fire Training Manager with the Nebraska Forest Service, this workshop will help you to protect your acreage.
Fire On The Acreage , the second program in the fall 2007 Rural Living Clinic series, will be held on the following dates:
Live Presentations:
October 9, 7-9 p.m., UNL Extension Lancaster County , 444 Cherrycreek Road, Lincoln
October 10, 7-9 p.m., UNL Extension Douglas/Sarpy County, 8015 W. Center Road, Omaha
Adobe Connect Presentation:
Saturday, October 6, 9-11 a.m.
- UNL Extension Dodge County , 1206 W. 23 rd Street, Fremont
- UNL Extension Hall County, 3180 W. Hwy 34, Grand Island
- UNL Extension Platte County , 2610. 14 th Street, Columbus
Pre-registration is $10 per person, and must be received 3 working days before the program. Late registration is $15 per person.
Program brochure
For more information visit the Acreage & Small Farm Insights web site at http://acreage.unl.edu, or contact Sarah Browning, (402) 727-2775, sbrowning2@unl.edu
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2. Organic Production On The Acreage
Small scale production of organic vegetables, livestock and other
crops is becoming more popular each year with acreage owners as well as farmers market producers. This program will be an overview of organic production. We'll be discussing vegetables, livestock and other crops, along with basic production, marketing opportunities and how to become certified as an organic producer.
Organic Production On The Acreage, the final program in the fall 2007 Rural Living Clinic series, will be held on the following dates:
Live Presentations:
November 8, 7-9 p.m., UNL Extension Lancaster County , 444 Cherrycreek Road, Lincoln
November 15, 7-9 p.m., UNL Extension Douglas/Sarpy County, 8015 W. Center Road, Omaha
Adobe Connect Presentation:
Saturday, November 10, 9-11 a.m.
- UNL Extension Dodge County , 1206 W. 23 rd Street, Fremont
- UNL Extension Hall County, 3180 W. Hwy 34, Grand Island
- UNL Extension Platte County , 2610. 14 th Street, Columbus
Pre-registration is $10 per person, and must be received 3 working days before the program. Late registration is $15 per person. Program brochure
For more information visit the Acreage & Small Farm Insights web site at http://acreage.unl.edu, or contact Sarah Browning, (402) 727-2775, sbrowning2@unl.edu
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3. Be In Tune To Points Of Hidden Hazards
By Sharry Nielsen, UNL Extension Educator
Machinery is the lifeline to getting work completed on both farms and acreages. But, machinery also carries many “hidden hazards”, that is, dangers that may not be obvious when you first think of the machine.
To keep you and your family members safe around machinery, make it a number one rule on your acreage that children play in a safe place away from any point of hazard. Secondly, be sure anyone who is working with machinery replace shields and guards after making repairs.
Points of hidden hazards are classified as:
- Shear Points exist wherever the edges of two moving parts move across each other. Machines cannot think, so they don’t know the difference between crop material and your fingers or legs. Shear points can be found on augers, rotary mowers, cutter heads, and others.
- Crush Points are found where two objects move toward each other or one object moves toward a stationary object. Injuries at crush points often involve a second person. Front end loaders, combines, tractors, truck frames and other machinery have crush points.
- Pinch Points are any place where a person can be caught between two moving parts or a moving part and a stationary part, similar to crushing points. If you have ever slammed a finger in a door, or gotten a pant leg or finger caught in a bicycle chain, you know what a pinch point can do. Pinch points can also be found on just about every piece of machinery, large or small, and on most equipment.
- Cutting Points exist where two moving edges slide across each other or a single edge slides across a stationary edge. A machine does not have to be moving for a person to be injured at a cutting point. The edges are very sharp so they can cut grain, grass or hay. Mowers, combine headers, and forage choppers all contain cutting points.
- Wrap Points are where part of the machine is spinning at a high speed. A frayed shirt, loose clothing or long hair can be caught or wrapped in these points, causing severe injury. A Power Take Off (PTO) is the major cause of wrap point injuries.
- Pull-In Points exist where a machine pulls material into the machine for further processing. Injuries from pull-in points often occur as someone is trying to remove material from the machine or trying to feed the machine by hand while it is running. It is imperative to shut off a machine before trying to remove stuck material. Pull-in points are found on hay balers, feed grinders, harvesters, and feed rolls as well as other machines.
Be aware of the hazards on the machines on your acreage. Use preventive measures to be sure children and pets are not caught in these dangerous points. Talk with your kids about safe play areas where they can be out of harm’s way. Turn off all machines before working on them, and replace any shields or guards one the repair is completed. Remember, people do not have a quick enough reaction time to fight a machine. Avoid being caught in Points of Hidden Hazards.
Source: Progressive Agriculture Foundation Safety Day Manual, Chapter “Hidden Hazards”, Lesson 3.
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4. Preparing for Winter Storm Emergencies
By Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator
As Nebraskans, we take winter storm warnings in stride but these storms can often disrupt your usual routine. Winter storms can leave you without power or prevent you from getting to the grocery store.
Planning ahead for winter weather can eliminate a major source of stress for you, your family, or others you care for, such as an elderly relative or neighbor.
Planning ahead for winter storm emergencies can range from a well-organized 7-day emergency food supply to a few basic items to keep on hand. Regardless of where you are on the range of planning activities, keeping food safe in an emergency can help you plan what you'll need.
Always keep meat, poultry, fish and eggs refrigerated at or below 40 degrees F. and frozen food at or below 0 degrees F. This may be challenging if there is no power! Keep the refrigerator and freezer doors closed as much as possible to maintain the cold temperature. Once the power goes off, the refrigerator will keep food safely cold for about four hours if it's unopened. A full freezer will hold the temperature for approximately 48 hours (24 hours if it's half full) if the door remains closed.
Be prepared by stocking up on foods that don't need to be refrigerated and can be eaten cold. Here are some examples of foods to keep on hand.
- Water- one gallon per person per day
- Ready-to-eat canned foods vegetables, fruit, beans, meat, fish, poultry, pasta
- Soups, canned
- Smoked or dried meats, i.e.- commercial beef jerky
- Dried fruits and vegetables raisins, fruit leather
- Juices (vegetable and fruit) bottled, canned or powdered
- Milk powdered, canned, or evaporated
- Staples like sugar, instant potatoes and rice, coffee, tea, cocoa mix
- Ready-to-eat cereals, instant hot cereals, and crackers
- High energy foods peanut butter, nuts, trail mix, and granola bars
- Cookies, candy, chocolate bars, soft drinks, other snacks
- Ready-to-use baby formula for infants
- Pet food
- Manual can opener
Consider what you can do ahead of time to store food safely in an emergency. For example, keep an insulated cooler on hand to keep food cold if the power is out for more than four hours. Keep frozen gel packs or blocks of ice in your freezer and use these to keep perishable food cold in the cooler.
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5. Gray Water
By Sharon Skipton, UNL Extension Water Quality Educator and Jan Hygnstrom, Extension Project Manager
While teaching onsite wastewater contractor classes recently, we asked onsite contractors which alternative technologies customers most often ask about. They reported that gray water reuse was very high on the list. In addition, they mentioned that gray water is sometimes being reused illegally, and in such a way that the environment and human health is at risk.
Gray water is the wastewater generated by the use of a hand basin, shower, bath, clothes washing machine, or laundry tub. The characteristics of gray water are influenced by the number of occupants, the age distribution of occupants, their lifestyle characteristics and water use patterns. Gray water from laundry is most often considered for reuse by individuals with onsite wastewater treatment systems so this discussion will focus on that source.
Gray water is contaminated in three ways.
- The water is contaminated by micro-organisms, many of which may be pathogenic (i.e. cause disease). Coliform bacteria in laundry wastewater is highest in the wash water and lowest in rinse water. Numbers of coliform bacteria ranged from 100,000,000 when infant clothes were washed, to 25 in the second rinse water (reported in colony forming units/100mL).
- The water may be polluted chemically by dissolved sodium, nitrogen, phosphates, and chloride or by organic chemicals such as soap and detergents. Wash cycle water was found to have concentrations of sodium, phosphate, boron, surfactants, ammonia, and nitrogen.
- The water may be physically polluted by particles of dirt, hair, dead skin cells, lint, and fabric fibers. Wash cycle water was high in suspended solids including lint, turbidity, and other organic material. If applied to land without treatment, laundry water can lead to environmental damage as well as posing a threat to public health.
Contractors report that some individuals with onsite wastewater treatment systems may divert laundry wastewater and use it in the environment without treatment. Most often it has been used to water the lawn during drought periods, or to “take some pressure off the septic system.” This is an illegal practice. It is not legal in Nebraska to discharge untreated gray water to the land, to surface water, or to groundwater.
People can reuse gray water, such as laundry water, only after it has been treated for protection of public health and the environment. Treatment systems typically include components that allow for settling of solids, floatation of lighter materials and anaerobic digestion in a septic tank; aeration; clarification or filtration, and disinfection. In addition, the dwelling must be plumbed so that gray water is kept separate from black water. Systems must be designed by an engineer (P.E.) and designs must be approved and permitted by the Nebraska Department of Environmental Quality.
Information from: “Greywater Reuse in Sewered Single Domestic Premises,” April 2000 and Nebraska Department of Environmental Quality Title 124.
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6. Is It Too Late...?
By Kelly Feehan, UNL Extension Educator
Now that October is here, questions to Extension offices often begin with “Is it too late to…? October is an active time in the landscape and while it may be too late for some things, it’s too early for others.
It is on the late side to seed or overseed Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue. This is best done by September 20. Whether an October seeding is successful or not will depend on how early a hard freeze and cold temperatures arrive. Seeding in October is quite risky compared to seeding in September.
It’s not too late to control dandelions and other broadleaf weeds in the lawn by spot treating with a liquid herbicide. As long as the plant is green and growing, the herbicide will be translocated into the roots to increase weed kill. Weed and feed granular products are not recommended for fall weed control.
It is too late to apply insecticides and fungicides for control of most insect and disease plant pests. At this time of year, fall sanitation is more important to help reduce carryover of pathogens and insects. Rake fallen leaves and fruit and remove them from the garden or landscape bed. If you have a properly maintained compost pile, this plant waste can be composted.
It’s too early to stop watering. Plant roots continue to grow into the fall. It’s important to keep the soil moist, especially for evergreen trees and shrubs that lose moisture through green needles during winter, than plants that drop leaves.
It is equally important not to overwater. While overwatering is harmful to all plants, perennial flowers that go into winter with a very wet soil may be winter killed. A soil that is continually moist, but not saturated, is the ideal balance to strike.
October is a good time to plant deciduous trees and shrubs, but it is a little late for planting evergreens. Because they remain green all winter, evergreens are best planted in September so they have more time to recover from transplant shock and to establish new roots before the soil freezes.
It’s too early to prune woody plants. Wait until they go dormant to prune. Pruning now may delay the hardening off or dormancy process; and with more decay organisms present during fall, the chance of decay in pruning wounds increases at this time of year.
It’s too early to cut the tops off most herbaceous perennial flowers and vegetables. As long as the foliage is green and healthy, photosynthesis is taking place and food is being stored in underground plant structures. Wait until a freeze kills the tops of perennials to cut them back.
It’s too early to apply winter mulch to roses, strawberries and other plants needing winter protection. This is usually done sometime from late October to mid November. It’s best to wait until after the soil freezes or until temperatures are consistently dropping into the 20s before applying a winter mulch.
Tender bulbs and tubers like tuberous begonias and Caladium should be dug for indoor storage as soon as possible. Others, like cannas and gladioli, will tolerate light frosts, but not a hard freeze.
Spring flowering bulbs are best planted in late September through October, when soil temperatures fall below 60° F. This will allow the root system to develop before the ground freezes.
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7. Fall Sanitation
By Kelly Feehan, UNL Extension Educator
As freezing temperatures end the growing season, it's time to do yard and garden cleanup to prepare for next season.
Fall sanitation, or cleanup, is important for reducing pests. Removing or tilling under plant debris reduces the amount of disease organisms and insects overwintering on or near plants. Leaf removal from lawns avoids turfgrass suffocation and reduces snow mold disease.
Remove tree leaves from lawns on a regular basis. Leaves can be raked, mowed and bagged, or sucked up with a leaf blower/vacuum and taken to yard waste recycling or added to compost piles. They can also be saved in plastic bags if you need a source of carbon, or brown plant material, for your compost pile during next years growing season.
Tree leaves can be mowed and left on the lawn if a sharp mower blade that finely chops the leaves is used. A rule of thumb is if the unmown leaf layer is less than one inch thick, it is okay to mow and not bag leaves. After mowing, the mowed leaf layer should not be thick enough to mat and suffocate grass.
As long as turfgrass is growing, continue to mow. If turfgrass becomes too tall, it will mat down and increase suffocation damage or snow mold disease. For winter, leave Kentucky bluegrass at a height of two to two and one-half inches and tall fescue at two and one-half to three inches tall.
Herbaceous perennials are plants whose roots or other underground structures survive from season to season. The tops of perennial flowers and vegetables die at the end of the season and need to be removed before spring growth begins.
The dead tops of perennials can be left for the winter if they have winter interest, such as ornamental grasses or showy sedum. Otherwise, cut off the tops of perennials once the foliage dies. If a perennial had a pest problem this season, remove and destroy the foliage and stems this fall.
The tops of asparagus are not considered to have winter interest; but asparagus tops left until spring will catch snow to improve soil moisture and can delay spring growth to reduce damage to tender spears from late spring frosts.
Annuals are plants that complete their life cycle in one season and then the entire plant dies. Fall sanitation in annual flower beds involves tilling all plant residue into the soil or removing and destroying all plant debris.
Annuals that had an insect or disease problem this past season are best removed from the garden, but not placed into a compost pile, unless you have a well maintained compost pile. Most compost piles are difficult to turn well enough that all plant material reaches the center of the pile where temperatures are high enough to kill pest organisms.
Don't overlook removing fallen fruit from under fruit trees and small fruits. These make good winter homes for overwintering disease pathogens and possibly insect pests.
Leaf removal around roses and pruning out diseased canes is very important since roses are highly susceptible to diseases such as black spot. Most roses are pruned in spring, unless they were severely diseased or their height needs to be shortened to fit beneath a winter protection method.
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8. Overwintering 'Temperennials'
By Kelly Feehan, UNL Extension Educator
Garden plants being killed by fall frost is part of nature’s life cycle; at least for some plants. Plants like geraniums, coleus, impatiens and asparagus fern can be wintered indoors and replanted next spring.
Gardeners overwinter plants as a hobby or to save money when buying plants in spring. They may wish to save a unique plant or one with sentimental value; such as Great Grandma’s geranium or a difficult to find plant.
Most gardeners know perennial plants have roots or underground structures, such as bulbs, that live from year to year; while annual plants complete their life cycle from seed to seed production in one season and then die.
Annuals cannot be wintered indoors, but some non-hardy perennials can. We grow a number of non-hardy perennials but we treat them like annuals allowing them to succumb to fall frost. If you have the interest, time, and space you might want to try and overwinter temperennials.
'Temperennial' is the new term used to describe non-hardy perennials that can be wintered indoors. Plants gardeners traditionally save are Pelargoniums (geraniums), Coleus, Impatiens and Begonias. A few others to try and overwinter include asparagus fern, lantanas, Abutilon or flowering maple, fiber-optic grass and spider plants.
Methods for overwintering temperennials range from saving the entire plant to taking cuttings and growing new plants. The key is to bring temperennials indoors or take cuttings before the plants are damaged by cold temperatures. The rule of thumb is to do this before night temperatures are consistently dropping below 50 degrees F.
To overwinter a plant, dig it up and pot it into a well drained potting mix in a container with drainage holes. Some pruning of the roots and stems may be needed to reduce the plant to a manageable size. Before bringing the plant indoors, hose the foliage with water to dislodge insects.
After bringing the plant indoors, isolate it from other plants and watch it closely for one month for signs of insects. You may want to apply an insecticide to the plant and soil a couple of times in one month to kill soil dwelling insects or larvae. Follow label directions.
Once indoors, don’t expect all temperennials to be beautiful houseplants all winter. Provide the plant with good light and moisture, but expect leaves to yellow and drop and stems to become leggy. The goal is to keep the plant alive over winter to replant it outdoors in spring where it will rejuvenate.
Some temperennials can be allowed to go dormant by gradually decreasing water. Once dormant, they need to be stored in their containers in a cool, moist environment similar to a root cellar. If they are in a dry environment, lightly moisten the soil a few times during winter.
The second method for overwintering temperennials is to take cuttings and grow new plants. Tip cuttings are most successful. With a sharp knife or clippers, clip a three to four inch long cutting just below a node, the point where a leaf attaches to the stem, as this is where roots will form.
Remove the lower leaves and insert one to two inches of the stem end into a soilless potting mix. Keep the mix moist to encourage rooting. Dipping the cutting into rooting hormone prior to inserting it into the potting mix is optional.
Once the cuttings have rooted, pot them into slightly larger containers with drainage holes. Over winter, care for them as you would a houseplant; providing good light, moisture and a well drained potting mix.
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9. Winter Protection For Landscape Plants
By Don Janssen and Kelly Feehan, UNL Extension Educators
Cold temperatures are just around the corner and some landscape plants will require mulch to survive the winter. The key is to not mulch too early in the fall; and, in most years, October is too early. Wait until November to apply a winter mulch.
Perennials
Mulching is one of the best lines of defense for perennial plants against cold temperatures, especially extremes in temperatures. Mulching is important in preventing repeated freezing and thawing of soil that causes soils to heave and damage plant roots.
Mulching for winter should be done after the ground begins to freeze or when temperatures are consistently dropping into the 20s at night. If you mulch too soon, mice and other rodents may nest in the mulch, and plants may not go completely dormant.
In general, about mid November is a good time to apply mulch in Nebraska, depending on the year and how soon cold temperatures and snow fall arrives. Tender plants, those hardy to zone 5 or zone 6, and recently planted perennials benefit from winter mulch.
Straw, leaves, shredded bark or wood chips can be used for winter mulch. Straw is good to use for mulch because it is hollow and that provides increased insulation. Shredded bark or wood chips make good winter mulches because they tend not to mat down and hold too much moisture against plant stems.
Apply a layer of mulch at least six inches deep. Deeper mulch may be needed in especially cold or windy sites.
Evergreens
To protect evergreens from winter drying and needle browning, provide adequate moisture into November. The soil needs to remain moist, not saturated, to allow roots to take up and store as much moisture as possible for winter.
Some gardeners will add a foot or more of mulching material such as straw, hay, or pine needles to the soil mound after the soil has frozen. To hold the mulch in place, encircle the rose with a chicken wire cage and fill the cage with mulch. Hardy shrub roses should not require winter protection.
Strawberries
Strawberries benefit from mulch protection, especially when snow cover is shallow or non-existent during winter. Clean straw is superior to hay for mulching because it does not add weed seeds to the garden. Apply five to six inches of mulch after a hard frost to protect strawberry crowns and roots from cold injury and drying out.
Roses
Most modern roses grown in Nebraska require protection during winter months. Exposure to low temperatures and rapid temperature changes injure and often kill unprotected roses.
Hilling or mounding a porous organic material around the base of each plant is an excellent way to protect bush-type roses. Bush-type roses include hybrid teas, floribundas, and grandifloras.
Begin by removing fallen leaves and other debris from around each plant. Removal of diseased plant debris will help reduce disease problems next season. Then loosely tie the canes together with twine to prevent the canes from being whipped by strong winds. Extremely tall canes can be cut back to 2 1/2 to 3 feet. Next, mound organic material 10 to 12 inches high around the canes.
Many home gardeners protect their bush-type roses by placing Styrofoam rose cones over them. Unfortunately, rose cones by themselves do not provide adequate protection. Additional material is necessary. If using Styrofoam rose cones, prune the canes back to allow the cone to fit over the plant. Remove any plant debris, then mound 6 to 8 inches of organic material around the base of the canes. Set the cone over the plant. Finally, mound a small amount of soil around the outside base of the cone to keep it in place. Secure the cone by placing a brick or other heavy object on its top.
Most modern climbing roses bloom on the previous season's growth. If extensive winter damage occurs, plants produce few if any flowers.
To protect climbing roses, remove the canes from the trellis or support and carefully bend them to the ground. Hold the canes to the ground with pegs or stakes, then cover the canes with several inches of mulch.
Prepare roses for winter when plants are dormant after exposure to two or three hard frosts. Normally, this is mid-November in southeast Nebraska.
Remove protective materials before bud break in spring, normally late March to mid-April.
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10. Bird Feeding
By Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator
A great pastime during the winter is bird watching. The trees have lost their leaves, new species have migrated into our area, and there just isn't’t that much to do outdoors. So let’s watch birds.
One of the best ways to get birds to come to us is to place a bird feeder at a good viewing distance from our home and with protection nearby for the birds. So how do we do that? Check out the attached web site for details.
Location, Cleanliness of Feeder is Key, http://www.oznet.ksu.edu/news/sty/2002/birds_location021502.htm
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UPCOMING EVENTS
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11. Acreage Insights: Rural Living Clinics Continue October 6
The University of Nebraska- Lincoln Extension presents a series of programs, entitled Acreage Insights- Rural Living Clinics, targeting acreage owners and specifically designed to provide them with the knowledge and skills to better manage their rural living environment.
This fall programs will be presented using a combination of traditional live speakers and programs utilizing distance technology.
| Dates |
Program |
| Oct. 6, 9 & 10 |
Fire On The Acreage- Fire has always been part of the rural landscape. If you choose to live within that rural landscape, it pays to know how to make your acreage as fire resistant as possible. Using prescribed fire as a tool is often another important part of rural living. Both of these "burning issues" will be discussed in "Fire on the Acreage." Presented by Casey McCoy, Wildland Fire Training Manager with the Nebraska Forest Service, this workshop will help you to protect your acreage. |
| Nov. 8, 10 & 15 |
Organic Production On The Acreage- Small scale production of organic vegetables, livestock and other crops is becoming more popular each year with acreage owners as well as farmers market producers. This program will be an overview of organic production. We'll be discussing vegetables, livestock and other crops, along with basic production, marketing opportunities and how to become certified as an organic producer. |
Pre-registration is required three working days before each program. Advanced registration is $10.00 per person, and $15.00 per person at the door. Program brochure
For more information visit the Acreage & Small Farm Insights web site at http://acreage.unl.edu, or contact Don Janssen, (402) 441-7180, djanssen2@unl.edu or Sarah Browning, (402) 727-2775, sbrowning2@unl.edu
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12. 2007 Landscape Management Workshops, Begin October 2
"Trees In Our Landscape" and the "Re Tree Nebraska Workshop" are presented by the Nebraska Forest Service, Nebraska Statewide Arboretum and University of Nebraska- Lincoln Extension.
Who should attend? The workshops are valuable to anyone that helps care for trees and/or planted landscapes. Groundskeepers, arborists, nursery professionals, golf course managers, acreage owners and interested individuals are encouraged to attend.
Morning program topics include Designing with Trees & Shrubs, Proper Planting & Site Preparation, Weed Management and Herbicide Safety. The afternoon will be devoted to introducing the "ReTree Nebraska" initiative.
Program Dates:
October 2nd, Hardin Center, UNL East Campus, 33rd & Holdredge, Lincoln, NE
October 3rd, Lifelong Learning Center, Northeast Community College, Norfolk, NE
October 4th, Douglas County Extension Center, 8015 West Center Road, Omaha, NE
October 9th, Panhandle Research & Extension Center, 4502 Ave. I, Scottsbluff, NE
October 10th, Mid-Plains Community College, 601 West State Farm Rd, North Platte, NE
October 11th, Hall County Extension Center, 3180 W. Hwy. 34, Grand Island, NE
Registration Costs- $60.00 per person
Includes refreshments and speaker handouts, but NOT lunch.
Program brochure, for visit the Nebraska Statewide Arboretum, http://arboretum.unl.edu
For more information contact:
Karma Larsen
Nebraska Statewide Arboretum
PO Box 830715
Lincoln, NE 68583-0715
Phone 402-472-7923
Fax 472-8095
Email klarsen1@unl.edu
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13. "Strengthening Family Treasures" Daughter/Mother Camp, October 5-6
A retreat designed for 6th grade girls and their mothers (or grandmothers or other adult females), “Strengthening Family Treasures, Daughter/Mother Camp,” will be presented Friday, Oct. 5, 5 pm to Saturday, Oct. 6, 5 pm at the Eastern Nebraska 4-H Center. The retreat is sponsored by University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension.
This camp is 2 days and 1 night of fun, educational and confidence building activities. As middle school approaches, this is an opportunity to:
- Enhance effective communication including expressing emotions
- Learn more about body image and sexuality
- Explore techniques to handle peer pressure and stress
- Discuss the importance of individual family values
Dates: Friday Oct. 5, 5 p.m. to Saturday Oct. 6, 5 p.m.
Location: Eastern Nebraska 4-H Center, Gretna, NE
Cost: Early bird registration by Aug. 15 is $120 per pair. After Aug. 15, fee is $140 per pair. Cost includes meals, snacks, lodging in modern cabins, and program materials.
For more information or a registration form, call Maureen Burson at 402-441-7180 or Mary Nelson at 402-444-7804.
Brochure & Registration Form (pdf)
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14. Wild Fruit & Nut Jam, October 6
Experience the sights, tastes and smells of Wild Fruit and Nut Jam!
Visit the Kimmel Education & Research Center in Nebraska City from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Saturday, October 6. A variety of Nebraska vendors will be at the event selling baked goods, jams, jellies, nuts, decorative woody florals, jewelry, handmade wood furniture and high-quality turned wood items.
Children can participate in craft activities, while adults can enjoy one of several educational demonstrations scheduled throughout the day.
Admission is free and the event is open to the public. For more information, including directions and a schedule of educational demonstrations, visit the Nebraska Forest Service web site, www.nfs.unl.edu, or Kimmel Orchard, http://kimmelorchard.com/kerc.html
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15. Nebraska Arborist Association- Arborist School, Continues October 11-12
Professional Training for Tree & Landscape Professionals! |
These educational training courses are designed to assist the horticulture professional to increase their knowledge in the area of arboriculture, and prepare for certification as a Nebraska Certified Arborist.
- Pruning & Climbing School, Wednesday - Thursday, October 11-12, 2007
(14.0 CEUs available)
- Arborists Seminar, Wednesday - Friday, November 14 - 16, 2007
(16.0 CEUs available)
Location: All events will be held at the Eastern Nebraska 4-H Center in Gretna, NE. Please review the registration brochure for event details.
For more information contact:
Nebraska Arborists Association
Phone: (402) 476-3865
Web site: www.nearborists.org
Email: naa@assocoffice.net
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16. Aspiring Innkeepers Workshop, October 15
The Nebraska Association of Bed & Breakfasts (NABB)are offering two great workshops in October. For those considering starting their own B & B operation, consider attending the Aspiring Innkeepers Workshop. Also in October is the NABB Fall Conference.
Aspiring Innkeepers Workshop, October 15
Location: Traditions Inn Bed & Breakfast, 2905 14 th St. , Columbus, Nebraska
Featured Speaker- Harriet Gould, Pine Crest Farms B&B
Learn important information you need to know to prepare you for the world of innkeeping. Association resources available to you: Jay Karen, President & CEO of PAII; Mary Coleman, NABB President; Connie Larrington, NABB Vice President
Registration ................................................................3:00-3:30 p.m.
Main Session ............................................................. 3:30-5:30 p.m.
Wine and Cheese Social ............................................7:00-9:00 p.m.
Enjoy Nebraska products while networking with Jay Karen, NABB members, and aspiring innkeepers.
NABB Fall Conference, October 16
Program Agenda
Location: New World Inn & Conference Center, Hwy. 30 & 81 South, Columbus, Nebraska
Registration deadline for both programs is : October 1
To register for either the Aspiring Innkeepers Workshop or the NABB Fall Conference, print out the registration forms below and return them to the address indicated.
NABB member registration
Non-member registration
For more information contact:
Glenda Hinz
Nebraska Association of Bed & Breakfasts
PO Box 81404
Lincoln, NE 68501-1404
Email: glhinz@alltel.net
Phone: (402) 438-2253
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17. From Recipe to Reality Seminar, October 29
The Food Processing Center is offering a one-day seminar for all individuals interested in exploring the idea of starting a food manufacturing business.
Pre-registration is required and space is limited.
Contact Jill Gifford at (402)472-2819 or jgifford1@unl.edu for an information packet. For more information, visit the UNL Food Processing's Food Entrepreneur web site.
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18. Experience the Power of Red, November 3
Please join us for "Experience the Power of Red", UNL's College of Agriculture and Natural Resource's annual open house. The event will be held on Saturday, November 3 from 9:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m. on East Campus.
During the open house, you will have an opportunity to:
- Experience East Campus
- Explore career opportunities
- Meet current students
- Interact with deans, faculty and staff
- Learn more about our 27 programs and two pre-professional programs
- Register for a scholarship and other cool prizes
- Connect with other future students
To learn more about the open house download this brochure for more information.
Details are also available at the CASNR web site:
http://casnr.unl.edu/ProspectiveStudents/OpenHouse
For more information contact:
Laura Frey, College Relations Director
University of Nebraska - Lincoln
College of Agricultural Sciences and Natural Resources
103 Agricultural Hall
Lincoln, NE 68583-0702
(402) 472-4445 or (800) 742-8800 (ext. 2541)
lfrey2@unl.edu
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19. 2007 Winery & Grape Growers Workshop, November 3
Our featured speaker is Kevin Ker, work-renowned viticulture specialist from Brock University and the Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute. He has assisted numerous grape growers in the areas of vine nutrition and health; site evaluations and assessments; vine hardiness, vineyard design, including GPS mapping; grape pest management and vineyard economics. He has also specialized in study of the Multi-colored Asian Lady Beetle.
On-line registration available
Date: November 3
Time: 8:00 a.m.
Location: Holiday Inn Downtown, Lincoln, NE
Cost: Members $69, Non-members $79, At Door $95
For more information contact:
Donna Michel
(402) 472-8747
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