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1. Fall Planting of Trees and Shrubs
by Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator
Landscape plants installed in March, April, and May benefit from generous rains and the long growing season that stretches ahead. But more often than not, we receive too much precipitation that makes planting difficult, especially on poorly drained sites. Furthermore, the sudden onset of hot, dry weather typically displaces an often too-short spring. Because of these difficulties, increasing attention has been given to fall planting.
Check out “Transplanting Trees and Shrubs”
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2. Fall is a Good Time to Control Problem Weeds
by Tom Dorn, UNL Extension Educator
Fall is an excellent time to control several species of perennial weeds in pastures and waste areas. Perennial plants such as field bindweed, Canada thistle and Leafy spurge translocate food from the upper plant parts into the root system in the fall. Herbicides applied at that time readily move into the roots as well, greatly improving the effectiveness of the herbicide.
Learn more . . .
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3. Control Noxious Weeds NOW!
by John Wilson, UNL Extension Educator
October may be the best month of the year to control our three most common noxious weeds... leafy spurge, Canada thistle and musk thistle. This is the time of year plants build up food reserves in their roots for next year’s growth. Herbicides applied at this time are also translocated to the roots, providing better control than when applied in the spring. Another advantage is many plants that might be injured by drift, but not noxious weeds, will be killed by a light frost.
On any of these weeds, we will never get complete control with a single application, but fall is a good time to start our noxious weed control program. This may allow us to cut out individual plants (musk thistle) or spot treat with a herbicide (all three species) next spring. Even if we do a good job of control between fall and spring treatments, it is important to monitor the areas where noxious weeds were a problem because the seed may remain viable in the soil for several years.
Of the three noxious weeds mentioned, we need to treat leafy spurge right away. We’ve already missed part of the time when controls are effective in the fall (September), but can still get good control if treated in early October. Leafy spurge is not as tolerant of frost, so we need to be sure we treat it while there is still healthy green growth to absorb any herbicides we apply.
Next on our list for controlling should be Canada thistle. This perennial weed is the most difficult of the three to control. It may take repeated fall and spring applications. From personal experience, I inherited quite a Canada thistle problem when I bought the acreage where I live and have been treating Canada thistle for several years. Now, instead of having over a hundred acres infested with Canada thistle, I’m down to a few patches that I’m still trying to control.
My experience has been that once you think you have it under control one place, it will pop up in another. That’s why it is imperative that you keep after this noxious weed. Canada thistle usually is found in patches because it spreads by underground “roots” called rhizomes as well as by seed. So when you spray a patch of Canada thistles, be sure to spray another 15-20 feet beyond the last plants in the patch you see to get any new shoots just coming up through the grass.
Musk thistle is the easiest of these three noxious weeds to control. It is easier to control because it has a two-year life cycle instead of coming up from roots year after year like leafy spurge or Canada thistle. The first year in its life cycle, musk thistles form a rosette that looks like a big prickly dandelion. In the second year, the rosette grows a little more and then it bolts (sends up a flower stalk). After it is done flowering and the seed has been produced, the plant dies.
It is best if we control the rosettes in the fall and then treat any that survived next spring. It is harder to see the rosettes because they may be hidden by the grass. But if you had musk thistles last year, go back to the same areas and look for them. If they were allowed to mature, you may still find some dead flowering stalks to help you identify where rosettes might be growing.
We can treat musk thistles now and on into November before the ground freezes. If we wait until later in the fall, our choice of products becomes more limited. There are also products we can use that will kill musk thistles once they start to bolt next spring, but before they form flowers. Again, our choice of products becomes more limited and cost usually goes up.
Once flowers have formed, you need to clip off the flower heads and cut the plants off with a hoe or shovel. If you can see any purple in the center of the flower bud, it can still produce viable seeds even if the flower hasn’t opened or isn’t fully developed. By clipping the heads off, you reduce the amount of seed produced for plants the following year. Be sure to collect and burn or otherwise destroy the flowers.
Different products are more effective on each of these weeds and even the time of application may make a difference in which product will work best for you. For more information on controlling noxious weeds, contact your local University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension office or your county weed control superintendent.
Controlling noxious weeds is not a pleasant task and may take several years to really see a lot of improvement. However, the sooner you start, the sooner you will see success. If you have noxious weeds on your farm or acreage, this fall would be a great time to start bringing them under control. I have done it and so can you!
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4. Musk Thistle Control During October
by Paul Hay, Extension Educator
Musk thistle. Everybody seems to have problems with them. We will discuss what you can do now to reduce musk thistles in your fields next year.
Timing is everything. That's particularly true with musk thistle control. And October to early November is one of the best times to use herbicides.
Did you have musk thistles this year? If so, walk out in those infected areas this week. I'll bet you find many thistle seedlings. Most thistle seedlings this fall will be small, in a flat, rosette growth form, and they are very sensitive now to certain herbicides. So spray this fall and thistles will not be a big problem next year.
Several herbicides are effective and recommended for musk thistle control. Among the most effective are Tordon 22K and Grazon. But be careful with Tordon and Grazon since they also can kill woody plants, including trees you might want to keep. 2,4-D also works well while it's warm, but you will get better thistle control by using a little less 2,4-D and adding a small amount of Banvel to the mix.
A new herbicide called Milestone is available this year that also looks very promising for controlling musk thistle and other thistles. Other herbicides also help control musk thistles in pastures - like Redeem, Ally and Curtail. No matter which weed killer you use, though, be sure to read and follow label instructions, and be sure to spray on time.
Next year, avoid overgrazing your pastures so your grass stands get thicker and compete with any new thistle seedlings. Give some thought now to musk thistle control during October and November. Your pastures can be cleaner next spring.
For further information contact Paul Hay by calling (402) 223-1384.
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5. Deer Damage Control
by Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator
The past 30 years has been a period of major change in the relationship of man to the whitetailed deer. From the animal's point of view, they have made a remarkable recovery since the early 1900's, when there were perhaps no more than 500,000 deer over their entire range in the United States. While virtually extirpated in many areas early in this century, whitetail numbers now exceed 15 million across the country.
From man's point of view we often applaud this story of wildlife population recovery. However, many homeowners increasingly view the situation with mixed feelings. The downside of increased deer numbers is that damage to ornamental plants, gardens, and commercial crops has increased greatly over the past two decades.
Now we’re faced with controlling deer damage while still having them to enjoy.
Learn more . . .
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6. Mole or Pocket Gopher?
by Stephen VanTassel, Project Coordinator, CWCP, ACP
With fall approaching, some homeowners are beginning to see dirt mounds "appearing" in their lawns. Everyone knows that proper damage control begins with correct identification. For if you don't know what is causing the problem you will have difficulty resolving it.
Distinguishing between pocket gopher damage and mole damage is one such problem. The following will provide you some tips to help you distinguish between damage by pocket gophers and damage by moles.
Tip #1. Pocket Gophers only create mounds of dirt. If you see runs in your grass that collapse when you step on them then that is a sign of moles. Pocket gophers never make runs.
Tip #2. Mole mounds tend to be conical and 6-8 inches wide. Pocket gopher mounds tend to be kidney or fan shaped and reaching widths of 8-14 inches.
Tip #3. Habitat is the last tip. Moles tend to be near wooded areas with loamy soil. Pocket gophers can handle dryer conditions typical of grasslands. Neither species will live in swamps or deserts. With so many irrigated lawns, however, gophers and moles can be found in locations previously never found. So keep an open mind.
Resources for additional information on identifying and controlling mole or pocket gopher damage:
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7. Bring Annuals Indoors for Houseplants
by John Fech, UNL Extension Educator
You’ve been pinching, fertilizing, watering and enjoying your annuals since May. Well, there’s no reason to stop enjoying them now. If you leave them alone this October, Mother Nature will kill them with a frost. You can prevent that early death and continue enjoying them by bringing them indoors for winter beauty, with a few exceptions.
Some annuals are very adaptable to indoor conditions, and some are not. Geraniums, impatiens, begonias, vinca, pansy, asparagus fern, and mimula are most likely to succeed indoors. When in doubt on whether to try a certain plant indoors, think about where it was growing outside. The ones that do best indoors are shorter plants grown in shade. Shady conditions outdoors are more likely to equate to sunny conditions indoors, because of the window limitations, and shorter day lengths in winter.
Larger or sun adapted plants such as celosia, salvia, petunia, marigold, snapdragon and verbena will have a very difficult time adapting to the smaller and dark conditions of the typical Midwest home in winter. Let Mother Nature frost them, then take the wilted leaves and throw them on the compost pile.
When you bring the shady annuals in, dig them and put them into a well drained houseplant soil mix, containing peat, perlite and vermiculite. After potting, place them into a transitional location for a week or two. Select a spot that receives less light than outdoors, but not as little as what will be received indoors. A breeze way or covered porch would be a good choice. Inspect them for bugs at this time, and make an insecticidal soap application if necessary.
In the first two or three weeks indoors, expect them to shed a few leaves or even up to half of the leaves, due to lower light conditions. Pinch them indoors to keep them compact. They are likely to use less water indoors, so decrease watering frequency over the winter months.
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8. Create a Windowsill Garden
by John Fech, UNL Extension Educator
In addition to bringing annuals indoors, another strategy can produce indoor greenery that can be both beautiful and edible. Look to the herbs in your garden as a source of possible indoor greenery. Herbs can be fun and fragrant, and are certain to be a great conversation piece with visitors.
The kitchen window is the most logical location for an indoor windowsill garden. The splashing water from the sink will provide humidity, which will boost the plants vigor. First locate a drip tray to avoid damaging the wood sill or counter top from excess water. Then find a pot that fits the location. Long, narrow ones are likely to be a good choice, but the traditional round pots will work well also.
You can either dig up and divide herbs in your outdoor garden or start some from seed. Either way, you will need additional overhead lighting. Most hardware stores carry a two foot fluorescent tube and fixture that will fit nicely over your sink. If seeding, lower the light to within an inch of the soil surface. This can be facilitated through hooks and chains that can be raised as the plants germinate and grow.
Actually, transplanted herbs will benefit from the raising light arrangement as well. In this case, strive to keep the light about 4-6 inches away from the herbs. Chives, oregano, rosemary, thyme and fennel will grow quite well indoors. Fertilize lightly about once a month, and water whenever the soil feels dry. Water in a drenching fashion, allowing the entire root system of the pot to be wet. With this system, you’ll make points with the cook in your family!
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9. Winter Horse Care
by Crystal Smith , Extension Agent, Virginia Cooperative Extension
As we gear up for the arrival of Old Man Winter, we are reminded of the challenges that winter horse care brings. The cold, snow, ice, rain, wind and any combination thereof, complicates barn chores and limits our riding time. For these reasons, we typically do not spend as much time in our barns or with our horses during the winter months. However, by keeping a few simple things in mind we can insure our horses are receiving adequate care this time of year.
Learn more . . .
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10. Winter Care of Your Livestock
by Bruce Nisley, Livestock Agent, Oregon State University
Winter places extra stress on each of us at certain times, finding gloves and hats, lugging a heavy coat, and driving on winter roads all remind us of the season. For your livestock, winter also applies extra stress on their system. The lower temperatures and moist air combine to present livestock with some additional demands.
Most livestock is very well adapted to handle cold weather; however, it is important to make sure that their general needs are met. Special consideration should always be taken for young or sick livestock.
Housing
When possible it is best to have a dry place for livestock to allow them to escape from cold rains and wet snow. Protection from wind is also important. Most livestock can handle wind chills above 20° F without much stress. Natural protection and windbreaks may be adequate. However, three-sided sheds opening away from prevailing winds are desirable. Allowing enough room for livestock to safely lie down without being trampled or smothered is important. Make sure the animals also have good clean dry bedding to lay down on; this helps provide insulation from the cold ground.
Square Feet of Shed Space Recommended per Head
- Horses 80
- Ewe 8
- Ewe with Lambs 12
- Goats 10
- Cows 30
- Calves 15
- Llamas 12-20
Water
One of the most important considerations for winter-feeding is having adequate water available for livestock. Water is essential to aid in digestion, which produces heat in fiber breakdown. It is true that some livestock can exist by eating snow, however this is not ideal and not recommended in extremely cold conditions. Water above 40° is most ideal to ensure adequate intake in cold conditions. Automatic waters are desirable, if not possible water should be available several times a day. Water consumption will vary based on temperature, size, lactation, and feed intake.
Estimated gallons of water per day
- Horses 8-12
- Cows 7-12
- Sheep 1-4
- Goats 1-4
- Llama 2-5
Feed
It is often thought that providing extra grain in cold conditions is the kind thing to do. However, in reality it may be the wrong thing to do. Although energy is essential to help maintain body temperature, livestock produces body heat through the fermentation of fiber, which produces heat while releasing energy. Therefore good quality grass hay or alfalfa are actually you best source of TDN (total digestible nutrients) for cold weather. Providing a little extra, good quality, hay is the best feed for your livestock on those really cold days.
Preparation
In livestock production the adage "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" is true. The best management is to make sure you have your livestock in adequate condition before the cold weather hits. Once winter starts it is the wrong time to begin putting on the necessary condition to help provide protection for winter. Livestock never needs to be fat, but making sure animals are in average condition or better is beneficial as they go into the winter season.
Make sure you have higher quality hay available for that cold weather and sheds are cleaned and ready to go when they are needed.
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11. Be Aware of Poisonous Plants
by Kelly Feehan, UNL Extension Educator
The bright red, fleshy fruits of Japanese Yew are prominent now. The seeds inside of the fruit are toxic and these fruits should not be tasted. Also, if you prune Japanese Yew shrubs, do not feed them to cattle or horses as very small amounts can be fatal.
A few years ago, I received a call asking if Japanese Yew, that common evergreen grown on the north or east sides of homes, was poisonous. The reason for this call was five pregnant cattle in Platte County had eaten some prunings from Japanese Yews and subsequently died.
According to the Fall, 2004 Issue of the Kansas State Veterinary Quarterly, adult cattle and horses can be fatally poisoned with as little as 8 to 16 ounces of yew (Taxus) leaves. This is 0.1 to 0.5 percent of their body weight. All domestic animals, including cats, dogs, and birds are susceptible to the poison. Interestingly, deer appear able to eat yews without problems.
All parts of yews are poisonous; except the red, fleshy part of the fruit which surrounds the seed. While the flesh is not considered poisonous, the seed inside the fruit is and these should not be tasted or eaten. The bright red fruit, along with the poisonous seed, would be the part of a Yew most likely to be ingested by a human child or adult.
Animal poisonings from Yews are most common. They occur when animals escape into landscaped areas; or trimmings from this evergreen plant are placed in pastures, animal pens, or even used in horse arenas for show decorations.
Be aware of the potential dangers of poisonous plants. For additional information about poisonous plants, see the Nebraska Regional Poison Center web site, or the Cornell University Department of Animal Science Plants Poisonous to Livestock web site.
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12. Prepare Ahead Of Time For New Pets
By Lisa Karr-Lilienthal, UNL Companion Animal Specialist
A lot of responsibilities come along with getting a new pet. In addition to financial responsibilities, owners need to commit a lot of time to a pet.
Owners must be willing to put enough time in for the entire life span of a pet. Dogs and cats can live for more than 15 years depending on their breed. Smaller pets, including rabbits, which can live to be 10, are living longer as well.
Pet owners spend an average of $1,000 to $2,000 per dog per year. Other pets can cost a bundle as well. Costs depend mostly on the level of care needed and what is bought. Food is the largest expense, but toys, treats and veterinary costs add up.
Most pets should have an annual exam with a veterinarian. Other initial costs that new pets require include being spayed or neutered, vaccinations, flea and tick preventatives and heartworm preventatives. Heartworm, an internal parasite, can lead to devastating health effects.
When looking for a new dog, buy purebreds directly from a breeder. Potential owners will be able to know the animal’s history, see its parents and get an idea of how well the animal was bred and cared for. Another good option is to get a pet from a local humane society or animal shelter.
Training classes for new pets may be best to teach dogs, especially for those that came from a humane society. Training helps establish the owner as the leader of a strong relationship. Animals from shelters definitely need a strong bond. By having a trained instructor involved, bonds can be built between an owner and pet.
Training classes also help teach how to handle a dog and react to different situations. Classes typically cost anywhere from $75 to $200. The classes usually meet once a week for courses that range from four weeks long to 10 weeks.
Owners need to ensure that their home is prepared for a new pet as well. Make sure to have all supplies, such as food dishes and leashes, in place at the home before bringing a pet in. Also make sure the house is animal-proofed. Don’t leave things on the floor to be chewed by the dog. Moving into a new home is a big shift for an animal, so do it as smoothly as possible.
Choosing the right pet food is an important part of getting a new pet. Pet foods vary greatly in price and quality. It is important to consider the amount of food to be fed daily, ingredient quality and other health benefits of the pet food rather than selecting on cost alone. Often it is more cost effective to purchase a slightly more expensive brand of pet food and feed less per day than to feed the cheapest pet food.
Also make sure pets can’t accidentally eat poisonous household plants. Animals that have not been inside much may chew electrical cords, so keep them out of reach too. Keep food items out of reach as well. Also, keep new and older pets separate to ease the new pet’s transition into the home until they get used to each other.
As much as you may want to show off the new pet, it is beneficial to allow the pet at least the first 24 hours with just those who will be living within its household. This allows the animal to bond with its new owners and eases the transition from its previous home.
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13. Keep Outside Pests Out!
by John Wilson, UNL Extension Educator
This is the time of year when a lot of insects, such as lady beetles and boxelder bugs, as well as mice and spiders, look for a protected place to spend the winter. Unfortunately your home makes an ideal place for them to survive the cold months ahead. You can avoid these problems by thoroughly checking around your home now.
The best method of control is to make the outside of your home less inviting and exclude these pests so they don’t enter your home. They are much easier to control this way than trying to trap, spray, sticky trap, stomp on, vacuum up, sweep out, or otherwise eradicate these pests once they get inside.
Clean up tall grass, flower beds, leaves that have blown in, piles of boards and other debris along the foundation. You also need to check for any cracks or crevices where these pests might enter your home. Use caulking in any cracks in the foundation; around hydrants, dryer vents and where electrical service enters your home; and where siding meets the foundation. Be sure all attic vents are screened to prevent entry there. Check for gaps around doors and windows and add weatherstripping to seal any place where they don’t fit tight.
By taking these steps now, you can keep a lot of these pests out. If you notice some critters still getting in your home, do a little detective work as to where they get in. If they first appear in one room, check the seal around windows or other places they might enter. In addition to reducing the number of pests that get in your home, you should also reduce your heating bills this winter!
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UPCOMING EVENTS
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14. Landscape Management Workshops, Continue October 2
A series of landscape management workshops have been scheduled for this fall. The workshops are aimed at creating and managing landscapes that are beautiful, functional and more sustainable.
With sessions on rain water, pest management and sustainable designs, Nebraska Statewide Arboretum’s Justin Evertson says, “there’s something for everyone—groundskeepers, park employees, arborists, turf care professionals, golf course managers and home owners.”
“Stormwater management is a growing concern,” Evertson says, “so this year there are several sessions on rain gardens and other water management strategies.” The workshops are sponsored by Nebraska Statewide Arboretum and Nebraska Forest Service. Arboretum and Forest Service staff lead the sessions, along with John Royster of Big Muddy Workshop, Kim Todd with University of Nebraska- Lincoln, Bryan Kinghorn of Kinghorn Gardens, etc.
Certified arborists, nursery professionals and parks professionals can receive CEUs for the workshop. Workshops will run from 8:30 to 4:30 p.m. (registration at 8:00) at these sites around the state:
- October 2- Northeast Community College Lifelong Learning Center, Norfolk
- Oct 14- Central Community College, 3 miles east of Hastings on Hwy 6, Hastings
- Oct 16- UNL Panhandle Research & Extension Center, Scottsbluff
For more information call Evertson at 402/472-5045. More information and online registration at http://arboretum.unl.edu.
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15. Daughter/Mother Camp, October 10-11
A retreat designed for sixth-grade girls and their mothers (or grandmothers or other adult females), “Strengthening Family Treasures: Daughter/Mother Camp,” will be presented Friday, Oct. 10, 5 p.m., to Saturday, Oct. 11, 5 p.m., at the Eastern Nebraska 4-H Center near Gretna.
This camp is two days and one night of fun, educational and confidence building activities. It is an opportunity for mothers with middle school daughters to enhance effective communication, learn more about body image and sexuality, explore techniques to handle peer pressure and discuss the importance of individual family values.
Registration is $125 per pair. Cost includes meals, snacks, lodging and program materials.
A survey of participants at earlier camps indicated 100% of the daughters and mothers gained a better understanding of differing personalities and 90% better understand the types of pressures teenagers experience. Mothers said they were thankful that presenters were not afraid to talk about uncomfortable topics and also indicated they plan to set aside more time to talk to their daughters about “what-if scenarios.”
A past participant said, “I really enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere, the outdoors and private time with my daughter. The games and activities helped me see more of my daughter’s view. All was enlightening and jam packed. Lots of quality information in two days!”
Additional information and registration form is available on-line
Or call Maureen Burson, (402) 441-7180
Mary Nelson, (402) 444-7804
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16. 2008 Wild Fruit & Nut Jam, October 18
The 2008 Wild Fruit & Nut Jam is almost here! This year, the theme is "Bigger, Better and GREENER than Ever!
We would like to INVITE YOU to come down enjoy a fun filled day experiencing the 5 senses of Nebraska! See, smell, taste, hear, feel and buy what Nebraska has to offer: Nuts, jellies, baked goods, teas, vegetables, music, jewelry and furniture and MUCH, MUCH MORE!
- Educational Demonstrations through out the day
- Children's Activities
- Fun with the Shriners
- Free Entertainment
- Free samples of Morrill Orchard Medley Ice Cream (While supplies last)
When: Saturday, October 18, 2008 from 10:00 AM to 4:00 PM
Where: University of Nebraska-Lincoln Kimmel Education & Research Center in Nebraska City
More information, including a complete schedule of events and attractions. Program Brochure
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17. Arboretum and Botanical Garden Tours Scheduled for Eastern Nebraska, Continues October 23
Mark your calendars for the following tours of Nebraska arboretums and botanical gardens scheduled for 2008. The free tours will offer a chance for tree lovers, garden enthusiasts and green industry professionals to see and learn more about many great plants and many great gardens the state has to offer.
The tours will emphasize rare and impressive trees, but will also be a great opportunity to see many other beautiful garden plants and the wide variety of birds, butterflies and insects that visit them. The tours are coordinated and sponsored by the Nebraska Statewide Arboretum in partnership with local affiliated sites.
More information will be available on the NSA web site, or by contacting NSA at (402) 472-2971 or jevertson1@unl.edu. Watch for additional tour locations to be added later.
- Thursday, Oct 23, 3:00pm to 5:30pm: Blair Fall Color Tour including Steyer Park and Black Elk Park.
- Saturday, Oct 25, TBA: UNL City Campus fall color tour and Husker tailgate party prior to game with Baylor.
- Thursday, Nov 6, 3:00pm to dusk: Nebraska City Fall Color Tour including Arbor Lodge State Park, Nebraska City High School and NADF Arbor Day Farm.
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18. From Recipe to Reality Seminar, October 27
The Food Processing Center is offering a one-day seminar for all individuals interested in exploring the idea of starting a food manufacturing business. Pre-registration is required and space is limited.
Watch for more program offerings in 2009 coming soon.
Contact Jill Gifford at (402) 472-2819 or jgifford1@unl.edu for an information packet. For more information, visit the UNL Food Processing's Food Entrepreneur web site.
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19. Small Scale Commercial Wine Making School, October 24 & 25
The 4th Small Scale Commercial Wine Making School will be presented by Five Rivers Research Conservation and Development on
Friday & Saturday, October 24 and 25, 2008.
Time:
9:00a.m. - 4:00 p.m. both days
Location:
University of Nebraska Kimmel Education & Research Center, 5995 G Rd., Nebraska City, NE
Tuition: $375 per person
For more information contact:
Five Rivers Research Conservation and Development
Tecumseh, Nebraska.
Phone: (402) 335-3347
Email: 5riversrcd@gmail.com
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20. Around Nebraska in the University of Nebraska Viticulture Program, November 1
The University of Nebraska Fall Viticulture Workshop will be held on November 1, at the Holiday Inn Downtown in Lincoln, Nebraska.
Date:
November 1, 2008.
Location: Holiday Inn Downtown, Lincoln, NE.
Registration Fee: $45 per person
On-line registration http://agronomy.unl.edu/viticulture
Also plan to attend a 3-hour Wine 101 Class on October 31st, 6:00-9:00 p.m., also at the Holiday Inn Downtown, Lincoln, NE.
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