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2. Farmstead Windbreaks: Planning
By Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator
Your need for a windbreak is measured by the benefits you can receive from one. Windbreak research has indicated that heat energy savings of up to 40 percent are possible when you use windbreaks. Most of these savings result from reduced wind velocity and, therefore, reduced air infiltration in homes downwind from the windbreak. The properly placed windbreak also serves as an effective snow barrier and can improve the working conditions in farmstead areas where you perform winter chores.
Check out this web site for how to get started with windbreaks.
Farmstead Windbreaks: Planning- http://www.extension.iastate.edu/Publications/PM1716.pdf
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3. All About Windbreaks and Their Care
By Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator
Windbreaks are a long-term valuable investment. Careful planning and management are needed to have a successful windbreak. Check out this web site for valuable information on windbreak establishment and management.
USDA NCRS Windbreaks- http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/TECHNICAL/ECS/forest/wind/windbreaks.html
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4. Fertilizing Trees
By Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator
For all you ever wanted to know about fertilizing trees check out this web site.
UNL Extension Forestry- http://snrs.unl.edu/forestry/fertilizing.htm
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5. Irrigating Established Trees
By Chris Starbuck, University of Missouri Department of Horticulture
In general, the larger a tree, the more drought-tolerant it will be. This is because a well-established tree has a massive root system, often extending four or five times the diameter of the drip line. Also, if the soil is not too dense, tree roots can grow many feet deep, tapping into subsoil moisture. However, once the subsoil moisture has been depleted, trees lose this advantage and must compete with other plants for moisture near the surface. Sparse foliage, dieback or mortality of many large trees this spring is evidence that the drought is already taking its toll, before summer has even begun. Winter precipitation this year only wet the soil to a depth of 35 to 40 inches. While it is normally not necessary to irrigate established trees, it may be advisable to do some judicious watering to ensure survival of particularly valuable trees.
First, it must be understood that it will take a tremendous volume of water to totally replenish the soil moisture throughout the entire root zone of a large tree. If, for example, we assume that 8 inches will be required, then a single 30-foot-tall oak tree with a root system 100 feet in diameter would require 39,000 gallons of water. Using a sprinkler irrigation system attached to a garden hose delivering 5 gallons per minute, it would take five days of continuous irrigation to water this one tree. Obviously, it will not be possible to totally replenish the moisture reserve in the entire root zone of a large tree with irrigation. Fortunately, however, wetting even a small portion of a tree's root zone will greatly reduce drought stress.
Lawn irrigation typically has little impact on large trees. Most homeowners irrigate frequently for a short period of time. While this maintains enough moisture in the upper 3 inches of soil to keep the turf green, it provides little water to tree roots. Unless the turf is shaded, tree roots can not compete with the dense mat of turf roots near the soil surface. Maintaining a large mulched area under a tree or growing a less competitive ground cover, such as ivy, allows trees to utilize irrigation much more effectively.
An effective method to reduce drought stress for a large tree is to use a soaker hose of some type. For example, a 50-foot length of the type of hose that seeps from small holes can be attached at both ends to a Y-adapter on the end of a garden hose. This provides a double soaker with reasonably uniform delivery over its 25-foot length. Laying this within the drip line, under a tree and running it for about one hour will wet a band about 2 feet wide with approximately 200 gallons of water. This should be equivalent to about a 6-inch rain over 5 percent of the root zone of a large tree. Repeating this procedure three or four times in different locations during drought conditions should significantly reduce drought stress without using an inordinate amount of water. Another technique that may help is to divert water from downspouts so that, during precipitation events, some of the diverted water soaks into tree root zones rather than running into storm sewers. Deep irrigation of shrub beds will also help nearby trees.
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6. Pruning Keeps Trees Healthy and Strong
By Mike Maddox, University of Wisconsin
Trees are the most valuable of our landscape plants. Care for them properly, and your trees will live a long and healthy life. Start tree maintenance the day you plant the tree and continue throughout its life.
"Proper pruning does help trees live longer," said Mike Maddox, University of Wisconsin-Extension Dane County commercial horticulture educator. "It keeps your trees attractive, healthy and less susceptible to injury from natural forces such as severe storms. On the other hand, poor pruning practices, such as topping, make trees less attractive, more prone to pest and weather problems and can actually shorten their life span."
For pruning medium and large trees, you may want to hire an arborist -- a trained tree service professional, according to Maddox. These trees deserve professional maintenance because of their landscape value. By having a professional prune your larger trees, you can also avoid injuring yourself or damaging the tree, nearby buildings, utility wires or other landscape plants.
If you plan to prune smaller trees, Maddox offers a few helpful tips:
First, use the right tools. You can prune most shrubs and small trees with a hand pruning shears, a lopping shears and a hand pruning saw. Pruning tools are available at garden and hardware stores and through garden supply catalogs.
Most deciduous trees should be pruned in late fall to winter. Late fall or winter pruning is especially important for oak trees to help prevent the spread of the fungus that causes oak wilt. Avoid pruning in late spring and summer when disease pathogens are active and wounds close more slowly.
Some trees, like maple and birch, will bleed when you prune them in early spring. This heavy sap flow does not hurt the tree. Pruning wounds are best left unpainted. Tree wound treatments are not recommended for most pruning cuts. One exception is that oaks pruned during the growing season must have wounds treated to keep insects out that transmit the oak wilt fungus.
Newly planted trees should not be pruned unless a branch is broken, diseased or dead. Young trees can be pruned to encourage a well-branched canopy. Older, established trees, if properly pruned when young, will require little pruning. Never "top" a tree, as this leads to poor branch structure and makes limbs vulnerable to breaking.
When pruning trees, there are several types of branches to remove. Prune out dead branches whenever you see them. Remove broken or diseased branches and remove the weaker of two branches that are rubbing together. Finally, prune out watersprouts and suckers. Suckers are long straight shoots that grow out of the ground from the tree's roots, usually occurring at the base of the trunk. Watersprouts are long straight shoots that grow off the trunk and main branches.
Certain trees have multiple leaders, including maples, ash and lindens. Trees grow best, and develop a better branch structure, when you train them to a single leader. It's important to remove all but the strongest leader early in the life of trees that are prone to developing multiple leaders.
Occasionally, you may need to remove lower branches on mature trees. Because these branches are often large, it's best to use the three-cut pruning method for removal. To do this, make an undercut halfway through the branch, a foot out from the trunk. Make a second cut on the top side of the branch, a few inches beyond the undercut. You'll remove the branch with this second cut. Finally, remove the stub with your third cut. The three-cut method prevents the falling branch from tearing a large section of bark from the trunk.
No matter what kind of branch you're pruning, the cardinal rules of pruning are to never leave a stub and never make a flush cut. Stubs are unattractive, do not heal over and can result in decay moving into the tree. Cuts made flush to the trunk result in large wounds, which take a long time to close. Make pruning cuts just beyond the branch collar. Collars are natural swellings that occur where the branch attaches to a larger limb or to the trunk of the tree.
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7. Fall Planting of Trees & Shrubs
By Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator
Is it really wise to plant trees and shrubs at the end of a growing season and so close to winter? The answer to this question is a qualified yes. Fall planting can be successful as long as the planting season is not extended too late into the fall, if difficult-to-establish species are avoided and if proper care (watering, mulching, staking if needed) is administered after planting.
For good reason, most people think of spring as the preferred planting season. Landscape plants installed in March, April and May benefit from generous rains and the long growing season that stretches ahead. But more often than not, we receive too much precipitation that makes planting difficult, especially on poorly drained sites. Furthermore, the sudden onset of hot, dry weather that typically displaces an often too-short spring, can injure tender new plantings. Because of these difficulties, increasing attention has been given to fall planting. During the period from mid-August to mid-October, moderate and relatively stable air temperatures prevail and soil temperatures and moisture levels are usually in a range that promotes rapid root development. But if the fall planting season is extended into November, or if slow-to-establish species are chosen, root growth may be poor and planting failures can occur.
Most container grown and balled and burlapped deciduous trees and shrubs sold at garden centers are excellent candidates for fall planting. Because nursery plants come with well developed root systems and because the roots of many landscape plants are capable of growing even when soil temperatures cool to 45 degrees F, the prospects for successful plant establishment are quite high throughout the fall season. Conifers, such as pine and spruce, benefit from a slightly earlier start, preferring the warmer soil temperatures (60 degrees to 70 degrees F) common in late summer to early fall (mid-August through September).
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8.Windbreaks NOT Approved Component for Wastewater Treatment System
By Sharon Skipton, UNL Extension Educator, and
Jan Hygnstrom - Program Coordinator
In areas of Nebraska without public wastewater treatment services, septic systems are often used for wastewater treatment. A typical system consists of a septic tank and a drainfield. The Nebraska Department of Environmental Quality regulates the design and installation of these systems, and specific standards exist. However, some systems installed years ago may not have been installed to current standards. Historically, it was not uncommon for a system to include a pipe running directly from the washing machine to a windbreak/shelterbelt or ditch. Some believed that this “graywater” was not a risk to the environment or to human health, and could, therefore, bypass the septic tank and drainfield. We know that to be untrue. Graywater from washing machines can, and does, contain nutrients, bacteria, viruses, and organic matter. These can present an environmental and health risk if they are discharged to the land surface.
Another approach was to install a septic tank, but no drainfield. Wastewater from the tank, called effluent, was piped to a windbreak or ditch. While the effluent has been partially treated, it is not of high enough quality to be discharged to the land surface. High amounts of bacteria, viruses, organic matter, and other contaminants still remain in the effluent leaving the tank, presenting an environmental and health risk.
It is critical that both septic tank effluent and graywater be treated in a properly designed septic tank and drainfield system.
If you have an “open pipe” as part of your onsite wastewater treatment system, contact a certified installer and have your system modified. Doing so will cost some money, but will protect your financial investment on your property, and the health of your family.
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9. Testing Private Water Supply Now Is A Good Idea
By Sharon Skipton, UNL Extension Educator
Testing a private water supply is not regulated in Nebraska and is at the discretion of the water user. Although not required by regulations, testing a private water supply is recommended. Annual tests for bacteria and nitrate are suggested as general indicators of the safety of private well water.
Bacteria is most likely to be found during periods of wet weather when the soil is warm. Runoff and excess soil moisture carry contaminants into shallow groundwater sources or through well defects. Since it has been raining quite a lot lately, this would be a good time to have your water tested for bacterial safety. Having your water tested for nitrate contamination at the same time is a good idea.
For additional information on testing your private water supply, see the NebGuides:
Drinking Water: Testing for Quality and
Drinking Water: Approved Water Testing Laboratories in Nebraska
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10. Spraying Lawn Weeds
By John Fech, UNL Extension Educator
Mid to late September is a great time to eliminate those nasty dandelions, plantain, clover and ground ivy plants from your lawn. Why fall? You may say, "hey, I can spray them anytime". Sure you can spray anytime, but maximum effectiveness is achieved in fall. This is so for many reasons.
First, lawn weeds are beginning to translocate nutrients to their crowns for winter storage. If the herbicide is applied now, it will have a greater degree of movement in the plant. Second, there is less wax on the leaves to repel the herbicide. In summer, most weeds produce a thick outer layer of wax (cuticle) to help reduce moisture loss from the leaves. This layer is not as thick in fall, allowing for greater absorption of the herbicide.
In fall, some folks tend a veggie garden, but not nearly as many as in spring and summer. If a bit of herbicide drifts over to a neighbors veggie garden while spraying, less damage will be realized in fall compared to spring. Finally, if the weed isn't killed outright from the herbicide application, then it will be weakened, and enter the winter in a weakened condition, making it more likely to succumb to winter kill.
As with any application process, be sure to read and follow all label directions. Information about rate, application procedure, equipment and clean-up will be on the label. This info will be very helpful to the task.
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11. Living On Acreages: What You Need to Know
The new book Living on Acreages: What You Need to Know is available from
MWPS (MidWest Plan Service), located at Iowa State University. Cost of the 120 page, 8 ½” x 11",
illustrated, softcover book is $20.00 plus shipping and handling.
Living on Acreages is for everyone thinking of moving to an acreage or inhabiting one now.
It provides a valuable instruction manual and reference to everything from building and
landscaping in the country to maintaining rural property.
More than 80 drawings, diagrams, photographs, tables, and charts enhance descriptions of
essentials. Each chapter lists resources and web sites for additional information, building plans,
and other helps.
Living on Acreages explains how to: Select a rural living site. Design a homestead that is
comfortable, functional, and adaptable to lifelong needs. Establish or access systems for water,
electricity, mail delivery, sanitation, and sewer, including septic system design. Adapt to life near
farms—from signage and traffic rules to noise, odors, and dust. Understand effects of seasonal
weather and wind on rural structures. Plan a windbreak or shelterbelt. Minimize damage by insects
and animals. Assure safety from lightning, fire, wind, winter weather, and crime. Develop outdoor
living areas—including decks, patios, gardens, and areas for wildlife preservation. Plan and
manage a farm pond. Construct amenities, such as a bus shelter for children. Plan and build
driveways and roadways. Manage outdoor burning and recycling. Establish a routine preventive
maintenance schedule. And more.
Living on Acreages: What You Need to Know (MWPS-50, ISBN 0-89373-103-X) may be ordered
from MWPS for $20.00 plus shipping and handling.
Orders may be placed:
On-line at
www.mwps.org
E-mail at mwps@iastate.edu
Phone at 800-562-3618 or 515-294-4337
Fax at 515-294-9589
Or by writing MWPS, 122 Davidson Hall, Iowa State University,
Ames, IA 50011-3080.
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